How long to prep a vehicle for PPF

[Guest groupguy]

I'm working on my first PPF and have a question regarding pre-installation preperation. How long does it take you to clean the parts prior to application? It took forever for me to get the bug crap and tar off the door panels and front bumper. I used simple green and then a tar remover for the tough spots. Is there something better to use? How long does it typically take you guys to prep? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Guest PROFORM MIKE]

We use the Bug & Tar remover which usually does a good job to remove these issues. Sometimes the bug acids will be baked into the clear and there is very little you can do about this unless you want to grab a buffer and go to town, but even this sometimes doesn't work. The film however will cover some of those imperfections which is a nice thing if the customer does not want to spend the extra cash to have them possibly buffed out by you or someone else.

Our normal prep time is usually 10 minutes but the majority of the cars we do are new so this makes a big difference. We wax the surface before we apply the film which helps with lift lines/ghosting and makes the installation a little easier

[Speed]

I use a steamer to prep every vehicle. It will soften up tar, bug guts, and bird crap, then it blows right off in seconds. Also great for blowing bits of debris out between the panels, under headlights, grills, ect. You'll want to get a good one, I use a TR5 that has adjustable pressure settings. The difference between it and my original $100 one is like a water fountain vs. a fire hose.

Then a good coat of wax like Mike says, except for tack points or small pieces. Not only do I think wax helps the install, but makes it a breeze to remove the film years from now once its all beat up and needs replaced.

[Guest PROFORM MIKE]

Good point Dave, never thought about a steamer to loosen all the off the front of the vehicle. I am looking into the TR5 for the few dirty ones that do come our way!

[Speed]

I shoulda just left the one I brought to SEMA with you! Back about 5 years ago, I scratched a customer's car trying to get a spot of tar off. Sometime later that week, I was channel surfing when I came apon an infomercial about a steamer and they just happen to be cleaning the wheel lugs as clicked by. I remembered the car I just scratched and figured that would remove tar without me even touching the car. I made a trip to Sam's Club the following day and bought a small one. That one only lasted about 6 months so after I went through a few of those, I ponied up for the industrial grade.

After a while I started using it to lay down fingers, especially on mirrors, and to help seal down edges. If you have an edge that's not completely down, the steam will fog the lifted area making it easy to see, especially on black cars. By turing up the pressure, I can get the film to lay down in areas that are hard to reach with a squeegee, like under the headlights between the washers on a 997 bumper.

http://www.vaporcleanproducts.com/TR5.htm

[XPEL Jeff]

I know many of our XPEL dealers ask the clients to clean their cars before hand and charge an "excessive clean up fee" for any extensive labor.

[Guest darkdan]

Yeah, I tell everyone to stop by the car wash the day of their install.

Odd, I use wax remover to make sure I don't have any wax left on the vehicle for better adhesion!

[TINTZEUS]

How long does it take you to clean the parts prior to application?

5...maybe 10 minutes at the most....

[Guest drwest]

I am amazed though at how many factory paint jobs are pretty bad. We wash and claybar every car before we install...takes about 10-15 minutes but keeps the shop much cleaner (we have a seperate detail bay where we can keep most of the dirt confined too and pressure washer out all cracks and such).

Regardless if the customer has "cleaned" it or not prior to coming to us, it seems to always, at least, need a claybar. But nonetheless, just about every job we have has some imperfections in the paint...whether it be a run in the clear or imbedded debris.

It always sucks having to explain, "We did a near flawless install but I swear to you, this bump under the film looks like we left dirt in, but it is unfortunately under the clear in your paint job.".

[lorenzotint]

I am amazed though at how many factory paint jobs are pretty bad. We wash and claybar every car before we install...takes about 10-15 minutes but keeps the shop much cleaner (we have a seperate detail bay where we can keep most of the dirt confined too and pressure washer out all cracks and such).

Regardless if the customer has "cleaned" it or not prior to coming to us, it seems to always, at least, need a claybar. But nonetheless, just about every job we have has some imperfections in the paint...whether it be a run in the clear or imbedded debris.

It always sucks having to explain, "We did a near flawless install but I swear to you, this bump under the film looks like we left dirt in, but it is unfortunately under the clear in your paint job.".

good point.... even the tiny stone pops that were there prior to the film install are ever so enhanced by a clear coated film.