Jump to content

WHat % FILM to achieve 35% NET?

Guest Mustang5L5

By Guest Mustang5L5
in Tint Laws

Recommended Posts

Guest Mustang5L5

Guest Mustang5L5

Posted
Posted

Hello all.

I recently had my '06 Infiniti G35x tinted with 35% film thinking it would remain legal. However, I've come to realize that the law in MA is 35% NET and with the factory tint this would give me 28-30% VLT.

I'm getting too old to be hassled by cops so this is not desirable to me. I want to strip the tint off and go with a tint that will be above 35% NET. I've been reading up and it seems that 45% tint would NET ~37% on the meter?

Basically how dark a film can I go and remain about 35% NET. I just want to drive my car and not worry about having anything !llegal on it

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 27
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Ryker

Ryker

Posted
Posted

sounds like you already have the math down so just figure it out? I don't think you will find a film that is 45% so I am guessing you are going to be at a 50% film if you want to get that number.....

Illinois I don't have to worry about all that noise. Any on the rear and NOTHING on the fronts

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ryker

Ryker

Posted
Posted

if the math of 35% and the "normal" auto glass at 70% simply multiplied then you get 45.5%

I don't know of any companies that have a 45% film. 50% and 40% but not any 50%.....now some do have films that might be a bit darker and called a 50% but you will not be able to tell the difference in that small number...

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest Mustang5L5

Guest Mustang5L5

Posted
Posted

SO ideally, which would probe the best way to get as close to 35% NET without exceeding? 50%?.... or will 45% film (suntek was one of the companies I found offering 45%) get me closer without going over

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Ryker

Ryker

Posted
Posted

Suntek specs show that the Carbon 45 is at 43% VLT and if the math figure out right then you will be darker....

Is there a tolerance of + - on the law? If not then I would say go for a 50% film as you are going to bust 35% with anything darker.

Now the only thing else I can add is that if you find a shop with a light meter that has a 45% film you can get them to check out the actual VLT....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
  •   Sponsored by
    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

  • Activity Stream

    1. 5

      Cracked glass

      I was thinking it would be higher on the absorption.... Great info on the whole post though Tintguy
      Ryker in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    2. 4

      Automotive Tint Comparison

      MEP Films distribute Llumar in Australia. I for one have been using Llumar since 1984 and have very rarely had or seen any issues with quality and that is why the brand is my go-to the majority of the time. Sun Tek have some good automotive films that I like, but other than those, I am strictly a Llumar user. BTW Eastman Chemical own both Llumar and SunTek so I imagine their film technology may be somewhat shared.
      doctor4766 in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    3. 0

      Better shop in Europe to buy Films and Tools?

      Hi guys, Im new here and learning how to tint… I live in Europe and to find tools and tints to buy here is very difficult. I just got some tools and tint on this website: tintwrap.eu This website was the only one I could find some felt squeegee and high quality films with the best price to deliver in Europe without ripping me off. the delivery was quick, about 2 days. and the material was high quality as well. Do you guys have any other websites suggestions? Thanks
      Hendrix in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    4. 0

      Paint Protection Film (PPF) is it needed or worth it?

      I've never had PPF done before and never had issues with the paint on the car looking bad. I usually park in the garage and have had Kia Casa White - Solid on my Sportage since 2015 and no noticeable issues with the paintwork. The new car is Glacier White - Solid I've been told that PPF is beneficial, but very few people I know have actually opted to get it for their cars. I've been told there are many benefits such as: No need to ever wax or use sealant after the coat is applied Stops the paint fading Makes cars super easy to wash Prevents Acid Etching from animal contaminants, hard water spots, tree sap UV Rays Acid Rain (although I don't think I've ever seen acid rain) Repels Water & Grime Saves Water Will not wash off, crack or peel Non-abrasive Self-Healing Properties: repair minor surface scratches and swirl marks on their own when exposed to heat. So is this all simply marketing spin to provide another product to the market without any noticeable benefits? Does the average family car really need PPF or is this more the reserve of the show car, tuner set, car aficionado niche? Brands SystemX Australia Johnson Paint Protection 3M Cleargard Paint Protection Pro Series Film OMNI Nano-Ceramic Surface Coating 3M Scotchgard Paint Protection Film Pro Series Ceramic Coating Package Graphene Coating Package SunTek PPF OZ Paint Protection Film OZ Paint Protection Films GTechniq Ceramic Coatings Tint Haus 10H Ceramic Coating XPEL Ultimate Fusion Swissvax handmade wax range. Opticoat Pro Ceramic Pro 9H CQuartz Finest Pompanazzi Gtechniq Crystal Serum
      MVOZ in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
    5. 5

      Cracked glass

      Follow up: Attached is the performance data for Johnson's Resi/Comm window films and if you look to the bottom you'll see DN50 has a solar absorption of 39%, which is well below the threshold of concern which is generally accepted as 50% absorption (with no shadow). With a straight line shading from the roof this does increase the risk, which is usually low for straight line shading compared to other types. I've also attached a pdf of Johnson's film-to-glass chart which is used to determine how safe a film is. The thicker the glass the higher the risk; you say 6mm tempered and 4mm is the cracked one (interior pane). The question now is what compass direction do these panels face? In the end, I'll just suggest you hook back up with the person that installed it and get his input. He had to have been comfortable suggesting that film. I still believe it's a one off cracked panel and the rest will be fine. It takes 2 seasonal cycles to know for sure. Truly your call as to whether or not to replace with something lighter such as DN60. Here's more helpful info that helps you question the glass type on the interior; is it plate or is it heat-strengthened (HS). I believe it is plate and not tempered or HS. Why? Plate glass with suffer thermal shock if the edge temperature is different than the center of the glass by 50 degrees F. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree F difference, and Tempered requires 200 degree F difference. Ryker chimed in and that stimulated further review. Good Luck with this. johnsonFilmToGlass_2021.pdf
      Tintguy1980 in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    6. 5

      Cracked glass

      Whatever that glass is that cracked it is NOT tempered. DN 50 is pretty high solar absorption and your saying shadows too so you probably need a more reflective film.
      Ryker in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    7. 5

      Cracked glass

      Hey, thank you for taking the time to reply. It's greatly appreciated!
      Geyser in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    8. 4

      Automotive Tint Comparison

      1) Why avoid Suntek? I thought they resolved that issued with the easy scratching and that they are one of the market leaders in Australia? Also, it seems most of the well established Tint businesses use Suntek 2) I've heard mixed things about Rayno, with some installers raving about it and others disparaging it. Makes it difficult for the consumer to know the truth, given vested interests exist. 3) Is Ultragard a Australian exclusive product? The IP seems to be owned by GTS FILMS PTY LTD. How's the quality as it seems to have limited installers. 4) Is the MEP Films CNP that apparently are Manufactured by LLumar of the same quality as the LLumar tints (such as Llumar Formula One Stratos; Llumar Formula One Pinnacle; Llumar CTX)? 5)
      MVOZ in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    9. 5

      Cracked glass

      The crack indicates thermal stress, however, the edge of the glass may have an imperfection (bur or clam shell chip). The crack does run 90 degrees out from the edge and curves as it follows any weaknesses in the pane itself. I have attached a pictured of what tempered glass looks like when it breaks and alongside it what a plate (or float) and heat-strengthened glass looks like when it breaks. The outer panel my be tempered should indicate so by a stamp etched on the glass surface in one corner. It should indicate tempered. Plate glass has no indicators, however, heat-strengthened glass will crack in the same manner as plate glass. I'm an unsure whether heat-strengthened glass requires a stamp. Tempered glass is 4 times stronger than plate and heat-strengthened is 2 times stronger than plate. 1 in 24 is indicative of edge imperfection. I could not find the solar absorption rate of DN 50, but if it is similar to competitive films, there should be no issue with that installation setting (including a straight line shadow). This, too, points back to edge imperfection as the cause. And finally, I spy drapes in a close position, correct? If so, it would be helpful to crack open during sun exposure; this to assist in allowing trapped heat between the glass and drapes to dissipate.
      Tintguy1980 in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    10. 5

      Cracked glass

      Hello. I recently installed Johnson Daylight Natural DN 50 on a couple of windows. Solar energy rejection is 39%. The windows are double pane and the glass is supposed to be tempered 4mm + tempered 6mm. The roof overhang shades the top 1/3 - 1/2 of the windows. However, a few days after installation I noticed that one of the glass has cracked, presumably due to thermal stress. Should I remove the film from the rest of the windows? I installed the film on 24 of these windows (6 tiny houses) so now 1 out of 24 is broken. Or is it more likely that I just got unlucky and the glass had a defect? Is shading from the roof overhang such a big factor? The glass cracked. Is it really tempered? I thought tempered glass would shatter, but not crack. Thanks!
      Geyser in Window Tinting - General Discussion
×
×
  • Create New...