Jump to content

door push bar

gabby70

Recommended Posts

gabby70

gabby70

Posted
Posted

just done my first commercial job. I was really nervous but settled into the job after a bit. I had an issue with the door and ended up getting a little tear in it. went back the following week to redo the door and noticed a couple of ring scratches in the tint from people grabbing the push bar. is there anything you guys do to resolve this problem or keep it from happening? or is it just something they have to deal with? thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest mr3y1956

Guest mr3y1956

Posted
Posted

If you can get Graffiti Film, it works well.

At some point the protective layer will need to be replaced and you can R&R without damaging the underlying film.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest mikeMN

Guest mikeMN

Posted
Posted
If you can get Graffiti Film, it works well.

At some point the protective layer will need to be replaced and you can R&R without damaging the underlying film.

:lol2

Link to comment
Share on other sites
PJF

PJF

Posted
Posted
just done my first commercial job. I was really nervous but settled into the job after a bit. I had an issue with the door and ended up getting a little tear in it. went back the following week to redo the door and noticed a couple of ring scratches in the tint from people grabbing the push bar. is there anything you guys do to resolve this problem or keep it from happening? or is it just something they have to deal with? thanks.

Another thing that works well and is durable is the urethane paint protection films usually used on car bumpers. It is clear and just a small strip is what you need for the contact area. It will not scratch as easily as film and is barely noticeable if done well. I agree with others that anti-graffiti can be used as well. You can usually buy just a couple sq. ft. of the urethane if you do not have it. If you do not have anti-graffiti in stock, you usually have to buy at least a 25' roll. Up to you, but both will work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest scottydosnntkno

Guest scottydosnntkno

Posted
Posted
just done my first commercial job. I was really nervous but settled into the job after a bit. I had an issue with the door and ended up getting a little tear in it. went back the following week to redo the door and noticed a couple of ring scratches in the tint from people grabbing the push bar. is there anything you guys do to resolve this problem or keep it from happening? or is it just something they have to deal with? thanks.

Another thing that works well and is durable is the urethane paint protection films usually used on car bumpers. It is clear and just a small strip is what you need for the contact area. It will not scratch as easily as film and is barely noticeable if done well. I agree with others that anti-graffiti can be used as well. You can usually buy just a couple sq. ft. of the urethane if you do not have it. If you do not have anti-graffiti in stock, you usually have to buy at least a 25' roll. Up to you, but both will work.

the only thing with PPF is that when taking it off of the tint sometimes it will leave adhesive on the tint itself

Link to comment
Share on other sites
TintJunkie

TintJunkie

Posted
Posted
just done my first commercial job. I was really nervous but settled into the job after a bit. I had an issue with the door and ended up getting a little tear in it. went back the following week to redo the door and noticed a couple of ring scratches in the tint from people grabbing the push bar. is there anything you guys do to resolve this problem or keep it from happening? or is it just something they have to deal with? thanks.

Another thing that works well and is durable is the urethane paint protection films usually used on car bumpers. It is clear and just a small strip is what you need for the contact area. It will not scratch as easily as film and is barely noticeable if done well. I agree with others that anti-graffiti can be used as well. You can usually buy just a couple sq. ft. of the urethane if you do not have it. If you do not have anti-graffiti in stock, you usually have to buy at least a 25' roll. Up to you, but both will work.

the only thing with PPF is that when taking it off of the tint sometimes it will leave adhesive on the tint itself

Even if it did, you could rub it off with your finger.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Guest scottydosnntkno

Guest scottydosnntkno

Posted
Posted
just done my first commercial job. I was really nervous but settled into the job after a bit. I had an issue with the door and ended up getting a little tear in it. went back the following week to redo the door and noticed a couple of ring scratches in the tint from people grabbing the push bar. is there anything you guys do to resolve this problem or keep it from happening? or is it just something they have to deal with? thanks.

Another thing that works well and is durable is the urethane paint protection films usually used on car bumpers. It is clear and just a small strip is what you need for the contact area. It will not scratch as easily as film and is barely noticeable if done well. I agree with others that anti-graffiti can be used as well. You can usually buy just a couple sq. ft. of the urethane if you do not have it. If you do not have anti-graffiti in stock, you usually have to buy at least a 25' roll. Up to you, but both will work.

the only thing with PPF is that when taking it off of the tint sometimes it will leave adhesive on the tint itself

Even if it did, you could rub it off with your finger.

I like using grafitti since it has no issues

Link to comment
Share on other sites
gabby70

gabby70

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hmmm I will have to look into how much it is for a small piece. unless someone is willing to send me some scraps for a small fee. would like to take care of it before it gets nicked up to bad. and thanks guys.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing
  •   Sponsored by
    rewiredtech.io

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

    The Tint Tutor

    ride wrap

    Lexen

    Tint My Ride

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

  • Activity Stream

    1. 0

      Graphtec Plotter

      I should reach out to graphtec about this issue, but I'm curious if anyone else has experienced the same problem with their plotter. My graphtec plotter can cut specific designs flawlessly without any problems with pressure or shape. Occasionally I experience an issue where I will plot a design consisting of two fronts or a rear windshield window, and the cut is flawless, but just before the plotter finishes, allowing me to remove the excess material from the machine. It reaches the end as if it will finish feeding it completely and then abruptly lowers the blade as if it still needs to cut the design, slicing right through the pattern it just created. Do you have any thoughts on why that occurs?
      Tintguy Santa in Plotters and Cutting Systems
    2. 0

      FOR SALE Jaguar V LX 40" plotter

      Selling a like new Jaguar VLX 40" plotter. Works perfectly, we upgraded to another plotter and don't have space for this one. Only available for pickup, located in Orange County. If interested or you have any questions please contact us at 949-888-6581. Priced at $3,800 OBO.
      AudioToyz in Plotters and Cutting Systems
    3. 1

      Llumar air 80 vs 3m Crystalline - dealer advised to go regular 3m ceramic over Crystalline

      Easy technical explanation of the difference between Crystalline and regular 'ceramic' labeled products, including 3Ms: Crystalline is designed to 'reflect' NIR (Near Infrared, the sun's energy we 'feel' first) as opposed to 'ceramic' products absorbing. Absorbing translates into feeling the sun's energy radiating off the window as your arm is rested next to it. Therefore, Crystalline is superior to ceramics. This is the pitch I would make to you as a buyer. Maybe the dealer you spoke with simply doesn't want to pay the price for a roll of the product. I've had Crystalline 40 on my front door glass for 8 yrs now and it shows zero sign of any degradation in color, performance and clarity. Crystalline would be better than AIR80 for the windshield as well.
      Tintguy1980 in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    4. 1

      Llumar air 80 vs 3m Crystalline - dealer advised to go regular 3m ceramic over Crystalline

      I just got off the phone with a 3m dealer in Dallas and he strongly advised me to save my money and get their regular ceramic and not the 3M Crystalline. He said I'd never know the difference and acted like it was NOTHING more than a marketing strategy. So that's got me all confused. He could make more money off me, but I feel like he's being honest and I appreciate that. But, then I hear everywhere else how much better Crystalline is over other products. So, I'm still debating on Air 80 or Crystalline for the windshield and Llumar IRx or Formula 1 or 3m Crystalline for the other windows.. So much to consider! FYI, I generally like the best for a couple hundred more, BUT I do want there to be some improvement.
      dtximages in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    5. 1

      Reimbursement for warranty work on solar or safety film

      Crap shoot.
      Tintguy1980 in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    6. 1

      Beginner trying to learn, where I'm at...

      Welcome to the forum! I would recommend Global non-cap ppf and get a second bottle with plain water only to flush the edges for better adhesion. If you're leaving water behind try using a different squeegee. I prefer a dark yellow turbo from Interwest. Instead of heating I think you should be streaching the film into place to pull the fingers out.
      Dano in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
    7. 4,178

      What did you tint today?

      Y'all try not to get too excited, but this is the four cylinder Suzuki version of the Geo Metro with a whopping 1.3L. No ac or power steering but getting 45mpg on 13" rims.
      Dano in Window Tinting - General Discussion
    8. 1

      Beginner trying to learn, where I'm at...

      Hello, thanks for allowing me to join. I'm a retired auto technician/High School Automotive Instructor. Enjoyed working on cars all of my life. I have had and still have several nice cars (mostly Corvettes) and enjoy keepng them nice. I have a lift in my garage which helps with the install on lower areas of the vehicle. I have been tinkering with PPF film here and there on rock chip prone areas on my cars. I have been sucessful sometimes installing where it was acceptable to my liking, but never perfect. I have had to rip several off and start over. That doesn't bother me because I really want to master this. Education isn't free and if it means wasting film and time I understand. I have gotten over the fear of installing it on small areas (front of wheel well area on rear quarter of C8 Corvette) and shrinking it with heat gun to smooth out fingers but cannot do an insatll without getting any bubbles completely. Some installs the bubbles have dried over a couple of weeks and were acceptable for me. But other installs were not, and I had to start over. The solution I'm using is the typical 16oz distilled water and 2 or 3 drops of baby shampoo. The film is Ebay pre-cut kits. Can anyone shed any light as to what I'm doing wrong to minimize the bubbles? Is there a different solution I should be using? Is there a better film to start with that is easier to use for beginners? I'd appreciate any advice or tips I can get. Thanks in advance!
      vetteowner in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
    9. 4

      Xpel; rookie (me) popped air pocket and nicked paint

      Thanks for the reply! I will see what happens. I tested the paint on a scrap of PPF I had sitting around, the it seems really secure. Just for perspective, I attached a photo of my goof. It really was a small divot, just bugged me that I did it at all. I did place a very small bit of paint on the top of the exposure. Living in MN, rust is always the concern, so I am hoping I have this sealed. While I know that PPF can't heal a cut like this, it was very flat so the exposure should hopefully be minimal. (What looks like a fold is the reflection of a seam in the ceiling)
      JonMN in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
    10. 4

      Xpel; rookie (me) popped air pocket and nicked paint

      Sometimes customers show up with a few chips but no touch up paint to fix them before the install. I have had pretty good luck putting a few drops of touch up paint in a syringe and injecting that under the film into the chip once they come back with the paint. You might want to try that when that paint on top washes off.
      Speed in Paint Protection Film, Clear Bra Forum
×
×
  • Create New...