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Guest Darknesswithin

Guest Darknesswithin

Posted
Posted
what are you curious about relative to Global HP Charcoal?

It's great film like most metalized smoke products. It's really how you're taken care of by each distributor or factory. Call Howard as he has the best reputation as being the best in care. I also deal with Howard, and time and time again, Howard has come through for me.

just wondering how long it's going to last ,, :lol ,,, I tired it out and just waiting to see how it does..

thanks for the heads up

In the deap south, metalized films, jwf sp,llumar atr, suntek hp,...don't last. Forget interfearace, u can't see out ur back window after 3 years since it looks like someone smeared vasoline across it. I been tinting for ten years so dontbgive me that 20 veteran bs..10 years is long enough to knowbwhat im talking about. Jwf sp is the first to go, sunk hp is second and out of those, atr last longer...but not long enough for their price. I'm not even gonna mention sungard and solar guard. Back to the veteran stuff...I know a lot of "vets" that suck.

:hmmm ... :lol

pretty much all I've used in the going on 16yrs in FL ....

:lol

I know a lot of "vets" that suck.

I know a few myself :lol But I've had minimal issues with HP films failing... sungard excluded :lol

:lol2 so true

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EWF

EWF

Posted
Posted
In the deap south, metalized films, jwf sp,llumar atr, suntek hp,...don't last. Forget interfearace, u can't see out ur back window after 3 years since it looks like someone smeared vasoline across it. I been tinting for ten years so dontbgive me that 20 veteran bs..10 years is long enough to knowbwhat im talking about. Jwf sp is the first to go, sunk hp is second and out of those, atr last longer...but not long enough for their price. I'm not even gonna mention sungard and solar guard. Back to the veteran stuff...I know a lot of "vets" that suck.

Hi Snappy,

I don’t doubt the veracity of your statement for one second. Ten years is certainly long enough to know a film failure when you see one.

Still, I am not aware of any physical or practical reason why HP vs. NR films should be exhibiting failures to the degree that it would lead you to form this opinion.

Let’s consider how an HP film is constructed:

The base dyed film is the same on HP vs. NR. The only difference (for most HP films) is that the inner surface of one of the layers has been metalized (typically aluminum). Remember that aluminum is the metal used in traditional Silver Reflective films, which are among the most durable constructions in our industry.

All an HP film really is, is a hybrid of an NR dyed base film with a light density aluminum (Silver) coated on to the inner side of one of the two plys. There is nothing remarkable about this arrangement that would precipitate the kind of failures you are describing.

In addition to the comments made by other posters, I have myself been selling HP films for 27 years. True, you are in a hot climate, but others (like Pacific Islander) are in much more severe areas. We sell HP films all over the world. We sell them to one-man mobile companies. We sell them to large multi-location shops that do 40-70 cars per day. We sell them by the pallet load to other customers and sub-distributors. These customers insist on HP films in order to meet their customer's heat rejection expectations. Texas is one of the hottest states. I would imagine that your customers must have similar requirements and HP films are constructed for this specific purpose.

The failure mode you are describing (Vaseline smear appearance) is characteristic of adhesive problems, not any failure of the base dyed film or metal layer unique to an HP vs. and NR construction. The adhesives are common to both NR and HP.

Might I ask you: When you reported this problem to the manufacturers you listed, did they offer you an explanation? Customers have an expectation that their film will last longer than that. You mentioned some top quality brands. Three years is premature and you have a right to know what went wrong.

My colleague (Phillip) has been selling the Global films in your area for several years. He has never mentioned a single product failure along the lines of what you are describing. I'll bet Phillip would be happy to get you a sample roll of the Global HP Charcoal Premium (as Pacific Islander referred to).

As far as the signal blockage issue, this has been covered in other threads, but I will summarize it here:

The answer is; it depends on who metalized it. Vacuum aluminum films will generally not cause problems. If the coating is sputtered aluminum or NiChrome, you might have an issue.

All of the HP films in the Express Catalog (except the All Metal NiChrome) are signal friendly. We have yet to hear a single complaint about signal blockage.

Also – it’s very easy to check for potential problems before you even tint the vehicle. Cover the entire outside of the rear window with a piece of film (leave the liner on and cover it completely). Check the radio, navigation, gps, etc. When you are done, roll up the piece of film and you can reuse it for the next car you need to test.

-Howard

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EWF

EWF

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Posted

If the HP version incorporates the same base film as the NR (as is the case with Global Charcoal Premium) the color stability should be the same. Both QDP and CHP (Global) are Lifetime Color Stable.

The "Vaseline smear - can't see out" appearance he described is characteristic of an adhesive failure. He did not mention anything color related. I am not aware of any aspect of an HP construction that would render it more vulnerable to color related issues.

Obviously the film did not meet his expectations and that's not good. His experience with HP films was so bad that he no longer wants to use them. He is in Texas and his customers would certainly benefit from the increased heat rejection that HP films offer.

Maybe Snappy will give HP another try some day. Those films have been around this industry for longer than I have and as others have posted, they do have a very good track record.

-Howard

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Sisqouc

Sisqouc

Posted
Posted
Howard,

thanks for all this information :thumb

My question would be, if the inner layer in a HP film is silver (reflective), why does it still look black from the inside? :dunno

All an HP film really is, is a hybrid of an NR dyed base film with a light density aluminum (Silver) coated on to the inner side of one of the two plys.

with two NR layers the silver layer could be on side 2 or 3 of the two NR plys.

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EWF

EWF

Posted
Posted
Howard,

thanks for all this information :dunno

My question would be, if the inner layer in a HP film is silver (reflective), why does it still look black from the inside? :thumb

All an HP film really is, is a hybrid of an NR dyed base film with a light density aluminum (Silver) coated on to the inner side of one of the two plys.

with two NR layers the silver layer could be on side 2 or 3 of the two NR plys.

Hi Vzla & Sisqouc,

When considering a 2 Ply construction, use this nomenclature:

Surface #1 Outer surface of the outer layer

Surface #2 Inner surface of the outer layer

Surface #3 Outer surface of the inner layer

Surface #4 Inner surface of the inner layer

For orientation:

The mounting adhesive is coated onto Surface #1

The scratch resistant hardcoat is on Surface #4

As to the subject question:

The metal is typically coated onto surface #2 or #3. In that case, it would be "behind" a tinted layer which masks it's visible reflectivity while retaining the added solar control properties that distinguishes an HP film.

It's a very simple, elegant (and effective) arrangement!

-Howard

Howard,

thanks for all this information :lol2

My question would be, if the inner layer in a HP film is silver (reflective), why does it still look black from the inside? :lol2

All an HP film really is, is a hybrid of an NR dyed base film with a light density aluminum (Silver) coated on to the inner side of one of the two plys.

with two NR layers the silver layer could be on side 2 or 3 of the two NR plys.

Hi Vzla & Sisqouc,

When considering a 2 Ply construction, use this nomenclature:

Surface #1 Outer surface of the outer layer

Surface #2 Inner surface of the outer layer

Surface #3 Outer surface of the inner layer

Surface #4 Inner surface of the inner layer

For orientation:

The mounting adhesive is coated onto Surface #1

The scratch resistant hardcoat is on Surface #4

As to the subject question:

The metal is typically coated onto surface #2 or #3. In that case, it would be "behind" a tinted layer which masks it's visible reflectivity while retaining the added solar control properties that distinguishes an HP film.

It's a very simple, elegant (and effective) arrangement!

-Howard

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