Film not sticking to the window?

[Guest l1ld3v1lrydr]

I've notice this a few times now, My film won't stick to some windows and kind of curls off? I use EWF's TB. I've noticed it alot with mustangs and a newer GTI I just did the other night. Around the corners on the side windows and the back windows on the stangs, around the dot matriix it just curls and won;'t lay. No matter how much heat I put on it or how hard I press.

 

Any idea's? or what to do?

[coast2coasttinting]

I have had a few ford windshield's seem extra slick. Like there was something on it.

[Guest l1ld3v1lrydr]

I've had it happen now on some newer mustang body style back quarters and along the bottom in the corners. Like it curled off away from the glass. And same thing on an year prior to the newest body style. Same thing. And now just the other night on a newer GTI quarter window. Glass didn't seem like it had anything on them though, 

[WearTheFoxHat]

I just know someone is thinking you did not remove the liner

[mates]

heat the glass on the outside a little, TB has a weak adhesive so some windows will do that, bit of heat and normally it will stick down

[shwusyrtnts]

When I used TB I had to use film on and water. No baby shapoo for me with that film. Weaker adhesive than it shold be IMO.

[Tintguy1980]

It may have more to do with the (black) border coating; these coating have a chemistry that is designed to out gas (oxidize) so the glass will not stick to the mold when shaped (Auto glass mannies have multiple chemistries for their coatings and so far Ford, VW and Honda have shown to have the best anti-stick characteristic to theirs). It continues to do this through out its life on the car.

 

Border dots are notorious for causing lift because film is unable to hold to the tiny areas of glass in between. Can't glue because you can't reach some of the edges (especially back glass). Best to seriously prep these coating with a good stripping agent that will not damage internal components and color. A coating of Probond or some sort of adhesive primer has been mentioned before as an assist; these can be serious chemistries all their own so beware before jumping in head first. 

[EWF]

Any idea's? or what to do?

 

Hi Jason,

 

TB & TS both have the LTCR adhesive (Low Tack - Clean Removal).  While a lot of customers will only use this type of adhesive, it can present a challenge for some installers and/or vehicles.  We sell millions of sq/ft of LTCR films every year and they have been in our catalogs since the early 1980s.

 

Mates (Post #5) and Shuwusyrtnts (Post #6) have described two of the many techniques that customers use with these films.  There are additional techniques, but other members of these boards are better qualified to dispense installation advice.  I hung up my tool apron in the late 1980s and honestly, I was never a "great" installer.

 

The other alternative would be to consider one of EWF's traditional acrylic PS films.  Those films bond up quickly and stick like concrete.  As an added benefit, moving from the LTCR to traditional PS films also adds the color stability.  A lot of people (including me) would suggest that it's worth it.  When factored on a per car cost basis - it's a relatively easy decision.

 

If I can be of further assistance - please do not hesitate to give me a call.  (800)FILM-NOW.

 

Regards,

 

Howard

[Guest l1ld3v1lrydr]

It may have more to do with the (black) border coating; these coating have a chemistry that is designed to out gas (oxidize) so the glass will not stick to the mold when shaped (Auto glass mannies have multiple chemistries for their coatings and so far Ford, VW and Honda have shown to have the best anti-stick characteristic to theirs). It continues to do this through out its life on the car.

 

Border dots are notorious for causing lift because film is unable to hold to the tiny areas of glass in between. Can't glue because you can't reach some of the edges (especially back glass). Best to seriously prep these coating with a good stripping agent that will not damage internal components and color. A coating of Probond or some sort of adhesive primer has been mentioned before as an assist; these can be serious chemistries all their own so beware before jumping in head first. 

 

 

 

Any idea's? or what to do?

 

Hi Jason,

 

TB & TS both have the LTCR adhesive (Low Tack - Clean Removal).  While a lot of customers will only use this type of adhesive, it can present a challenge for some installers and/or vehicles.  We sell millions of sq/ft of LTCR films every year and they have been in our catalogs since the early 1980s.

 

Mates (Post #5) and Shuwusyrtnts (Post #6) have described two of the many techniques that customers use with these films.  There are additional techniques, but other members of these boards are better qualified to dispense installation advice.  I hung up my tool apron in the late 1980s and honestly, I was never a "great" installer.

 

The other alternative would be to consider one of EWF's traditional acrylic PS films.  Those films bond up quickly and stick like concrete.  As an added benefit, moving from the LTCR to traditional PS films also adds the color stability.  A lot of people (including me) would suggest that it's worth it.  When factored on a per car cost basis - it's a relatively easy decision.

 

If I can be of further assistance - please do not hesitate to give me a call.  (800)FILM-NOW.

 

Regards,

 

Howard

 

 

 

Thanks for the reply howard! I would say this is more my problem then anything. I've used enough heat to make the film stick and it just doesn't. I try to keep the film cut very close so there isn't much over lay on to the black. Is there anything I can do to get it to lay down on some of these windows? Run some clear glue along the side where it's lifting?

 

 

Which films are in the PS line again? I just get on the site and always get the TB. Thats all I've ever used.

[tintcartel]

^{so is ths film hard to apply on all cars or just a few?}