leaping into the abyss

Bjs Detailing · June 30, 2014

I thought to myself.....why not

Had a 2013 Mini booked in today for a full protection package.

Took me a while to get the hang of frame-less roll ups. Only my second attempt at these installs.

Got there in the end,but omg, getting the tint down below the weather strip, even though i had pushed them down first, was still a little bit intimidating to say the least.

*I have come to the conclusion that a carbon blade would be much better for shaving the film on the glass edges, stainless blades just don't seem to glide that well. I persisted with stainless blades today.

All in all, got the job done, happy with my work, clean, contamination free, only had to do one rear window again... there appeared to be brown streaks in it (suntek) not sure if it was glue gone bad or another tint myth discovered by a novice lmao. - Saving release liners as templates is a huge time saver.

Did notice a little bit of curve on all glass for this model. the rear windows have a nice top curve that caused some nice fingers to shrink.

Apart from taking about 4 hours with some minor interruptions, I feel good that I was able to accomplish this job, given that the knowledge was obtained from all of you guys on here.

All cut from 20" Suntek Carbon T35

BJS Detailing

ultratintsouthport · June 30, 2014

Nice job mate! Well done.

But stop tucking film under rubbers and start removing trims. Any job that's worth doing, is worth doing properly.

[emoji6]

OverLord · June 30, 2014

You might be trying to tuck to much film.

You only need about 1/4 inch below the seal.

On frameless windows you can set the top then push the glass outwards to tuck.

Hope that makes sense

RockyDaz · June 30, 2014

Nice job mate! Well done.

But stop tucking film under rubbers and start removing trims. Any job that's worth doing, is worth doing properly.

[emoji6]

Mini's are a different beast Ultra.

The window seal is not attached to the trim and can't be easily removed.

Easiest way is to push the seal down, bottom drop as usual and then pull the seal back up.

Bloody Poms are just as capable of over engineering as the Germans are.

ultratintsouthport · June 30, 2014

Not so Rocky. They have a one-piece rubber that can't be removed, yes, but it can be lifted out of its channel and moved back over the aluminium strip to very easily give full access. (After removing the trim of course) [emoji41][emoji106]

RockyDaz · June 30, 2014

Not so Rocky. They have a one-piece rubber that can't be removed, yes, but it can be lifted out of its channel and moved back over the aluminium strip to very easily give full access. (After removing the trim of course) [emoji41][emoji106]

Excellent,I'll have another look with the next one just for my own info..

Easy trims to remove, but on the mini it is dead easy to push the seal down and pop up after with a hook tool. I think C2C put me on to that one a fair while back. I tape a backing sheet to the top of the trim to protect it...with low tack 3M tape of course :cool

Thanks for the info.

ultratintsouthport · June 30, 2014

Not so Rocky. They have a one-piece rubber that can't be removed, yes, but it can be lifted out of its channel and moved back over the aluminium strip to very easily give full access. (After removing the trim of course) [emoji41][emoji106]

Excellent,I'll have another look with the next one just for my own info..

Easy trims to remove, but on the mini it is dead easy to push the seal down and pop up after with a hook tool. I think C2C put me on to that one a fair while back. I tape a backing sheet to the top of the trim to protect it...with low tack 3M tape of course

Thanks for the info.

Great! Next time I have one in, I'll try your method out too. Always good to have more moves in your play book. :thumb