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Tracing roll-downs on the table


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no way you could get a great top if you are "tracing" it out on a table.... IMO the only way to do it is on the vehicle.  Even one vehicle to another the glass will be just a bit different.  Got to use some computer cut film and the top edge was not good enough on most patterns for me...

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Yeah I hear you all. So let's just say we're copying a quarter. I'm sure many do that. Do the majority put the good piece on the bottom or the top? On the bottom, with the piece you're cutting is on top, the blade seems to "feel" the good edge and follow it well, but if the good piece is on the top and you start to come in too close, it will move the top one in a little with the blade, but not cut through it. You may cut through the bottom one a sliver, but at least you've only messed one piece up.

I've learned to just cut about a razors width oversized, but have seen a couple guys trace, FAST and I'm wondering what I'm missing.

One thing about doing this for so long, it's nice to know different methods so you can adapt to any job if it must be done differently for some reason.

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I usually use a scrap liner. Place the liner on the car. Cut it out. Then take two pieces of film with the liner facing out and stick them together. Put on your table put the liner on top and cut a little bigger than that pattern.

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I seen a video about 3 weeks after I started tinting. Needless to say I've been doing it since. All windows (side roll and 1/4) takes about 15 min with me talking my time. If it had 2 sets of 1/4 then 20 min.

I have tried to go back to one at a time but the film feels way to thin now...

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Thanks JH, never had a problem cutting sides at all, just considering better or faster ways to trace

when needed, specifically as mentioned in the scenarios above. A lot of people seem to double cut, may be worth a try, although I agree with Ryker when he said the passenger and driver side too edge might not be identical.

I have also used the liner trick on cars that had a vent visor that caused difficult cutting. Not all visors, just some. Also the liner trick is great for quarters, especially if using dark film.

No one has mentioned the way I cut sides, wonder if I'm part of a chosen few.

What I do is roll up window and wet it. line up the bottom edge of film right on top of the seal, cut the excess off just above the door. Cut the front edge flush. Slide forward about a half inch or so, overlapping the mirror or whatever. Cut the back edge flush. (It helps to mist before cutting) Slide it back to center up both margins, overlapping the door frame. You have already made the majority of your cuts and can see how much will hide. Of course you want to vary how much depending on the car. Now, pull the bottom edge off the glass (or shrink first) and drop it whatever the desired amount to be under the seal. (Even if you leave it flush to the bottom, it will hide the daylight on the install) Anchor it along the top and however much of the film lays flat with a black Teflon card. Pull the bottom edge out again and bump the window down. Cut the top along the glass. (Seems to work best for me to be out 1 click and let the Olfa knife itself push lightly onto the film)

I've worked for awhile with another guy who lined it all up exactly the same, except sharpie the sides, bump it down and cut the top off and that seems to be effective too. Of course with all of these methods, it gets cleaned up on the table.

So, a lot of explaining, but a couple minutes a window wouldn't be hard to achieve. I'll have to post a video too :thumb

No wrong ways here, just different methods.

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piece you want to "copy" on top....

 

I use a scrap liner for quarter windows.  Trace the glass with a sharpie and then lay it out to double cut....just follow the line. 

 

Only time I would be tracing a cut piece is if I messed one up and was making a second run...

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