Preventing Peanuts

[Guest Metro Films]

dryer sheet, horizontal tac with yellow diamond pushing film down with no heat till necessary. torch at aprox 12inch dropping each quadrant down evenly. carefully lift one corner and pull back so about one inch of film comes up across bottom and heat for snap. do not snap to defrost line. repeat on top. .

This is standard for me. No issues with peanuts. Not on Altimas or any of the Dodges or Chryslers.

I always use steel wool. It just seem wiser to me.

Also I recommend losing the torch and go with the heatgun. Everything else seems fine. But the torch overheats the film before you realize it. The torch runs at a much higher heat (on its lowest possible setting) than a heat gun. Hence the reason for the peanuts. You are putting the film to it's absolute limit way to fast. And it can't go back.

The torch seems to be the reason for the peanuts in most cases. In my humble opinion.

I agree i did a car that normally has the peanut issue. I heated slow and this time not an issue

[Lock]

In my opinion what brand of film you use plays the biggest factor in peanuts. Why is this the case? Not sure but I use the same shrinking and installation techniques and when I use brand (a) I usually get peanuts as opposed to brand (b) where I rarely get peanuts.

Now that's not to say there are not ways to minimize this. Whenever I use brand (a) I know I need to steel wool and it helps minimize the problem whereas when I use brand (b) no wool is necessary.

[TintDude]

I changed the title of this thread to preventing peanuts, hope no one minds.

[jh812]

[TINT]

No issues here tintiing these cars without using dryer sheets, baby powder or whatever anyone uses. Just dry shrink and steel wool defroster lines before doing it. Alcohol mix works wonders too in cooler climates

[shadytints]

No BG's today but 3 shields.   film does have effect and heat guns.  basic guns are 900 degrees compared to snap, matco hit 11 or 1200.  low and slow seems to reduce peanuts compared to an aggressive shrink or torch.

 

took a old shield to try and demo.  terms and previous concepts for comparison can be found on youtube, Rob forbes under BG breakdown and reverse curve.

results were interesting from shrink to fit no fingers and now compress to fit.

second vid with more of a challenge working on,  will be up later

 

[shadytints]

same shield, dryer sheet tac to top so all finger forced to bottom.  attempt not to shrink if possible and compress to edge to avoid peanuts.

 

not a soap or dryer sheet tinter and learning compression while avoiding creasing.  

 

[Stewy]

I have 6 chargers, 7 challengers, and 5 300s... maybe more. I'm going to slow shrink it and I hope that works.

[shadytints]

dial the heat gun down if its variable or challenger easy to stretch shrinking just the edge maybe the 300.  played with the shield a little more, getting closer to evening the compression.    love to see ya try and let me know, malibu 17 couple doors today.

[TINT]

No BG's today but 3 shields.   film does have effect and heat guns.  basic guns are 900 degrees compared to snap, matco hit 11 or 1200.  low and slow seems to reduce peanuts compared to an aggressive shrink or torch.

 

took a old shield to try and demo.  terms and previous concepts for comparison can be found on youtube, Rob forbes under BG breakdown and reverse curve.

results were interesting from shrink to fit no fingers and now compress to fit.

second vid with more of a challenge working on,  will be up later

 

 

 

same shield, dryer sheet tac to top so all finger forced to bottom.  attempt not to shrink if possible and compress to edge to avoid peanuts.

 

not a soap or dryer sheet tinter and learning compression while avoiding creasing.