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Unprofessional to use adhesive promoters?

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Guest No really its Fox Hat

Where did you hear this from?  Mike your barista at Starbucks ? Lou your massage therapist ? Suzie your Dental Hygienist? Bill Nye the science guy? Some Jackwagon on a Tint related forum?

Every vehicle has its "tough" spots.

Go back to your training and understand where and when to use it or more importantly when not to.


If a manufacturer recommends primer and where/when  to use it,would it be unprofessional to use it?


Its not intended as a crutch for poor installation techniques.



You can still "follow the instructions" and still not do it right.



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On 12/12/2019 at 1:46 PM, Aaron said:

No need to use adhesion promoter, bro. We never use that on closing corners and edges

Even on tough spots?  Will the corners and edges flip after several weeks or months?  Do these promoters damage paint over time?  even if used properly?



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On 12/14/2019 at 6:43 PM, Acexxon said:

Even on tough spots?  Will the corners and edges flip after several weeks or months?  Do these promoters damage paint over time?  even if used properly?



Normally we use heater to close the corner, or maybe we did not face the tough spots as you did.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I try not to use it at all. It's a lot easier to correct issues if you haven't used it. The minute you put it on, you know you can't fix anything without having to replace that piece. And leaving a ton of glue behind on removal. But every so often, when the film just will not stay down due to wax or something rough preventing adhesion on that spot, it can be a lifesaver.


Pro-tip - if you're applying film on a repainted vehicle, don't do it. 

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Great video.  I try only using probond inside a wrapped tow hook or under hoods.  I've found using it on areas that can be seen can look like dried up elmer's glue, kinda ghosty.  


Recently I stumbled apon a wax/polish that helps the film bite just about as much as Probond, but not so hard you can't lift the film without hurting the adhesive.  It's a witches brew that the detail manager makes at one of my dealership accounts, and he has been tweeking it since I realized how well it works.  Right now we have two versions we are developing with different levels of bite.


One is a spray that works great on the surface where you need an extra hand.  We've all been there where you need both hands to hold down the film and need one more hand to squeege it down.  Perfect example would be a 911 fender when you start at the a pillar and have to stretch it to the headlight.  It nearly always want to pull back.  I spray a little right at the top of the fender above the light and it helps the film stick first time 90% of the time.  Same thing on Camaro or Challenger bumpers below and around the headlight areas, film sticks first time so you don't get that "overworked" look at the edges.


The second is applied as a paste wax and it has enough bite that you can apply it under the hood where I normally would use probond, and it sticks at about 90% as good.  Again, it doesn't harm the adhesive if you have to lift the film and reapply it.  Both products make the surface of the paint as smooth and as slick as glass and works so well, you can get film to stick on surfaces that have been ceramic coated with no other prep but spray and wipe.  I know because we had a Benz in that we couldn't get film to sick at all, even dry.  That's when we discovered how well it worked.


I hope to have more made up soon and would like to get some feedback form other installers.  This has become an expensive proposition once trademarks and patents are factored in so please don't ask about pricing as it won't be cheap compared to other spray on waxes or instant detailers.   I have been using it literally on every install over the last few months getting it dailed in and would hate to not have this at my disposal.  





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