pbalentine

Oh man did one a few weeks ago and was the longest a car took in years.  Pulled panels to make i easy and the fn sweeps were riveted in!! Next one i will charge $100+ extra and drill those lil bastards out!
 
As far as the new fusion ive havnt had much trouble.  It sucks tucking the rears a little, but with sweeps out its much easier.  The bg does require some shrinking and the install can be a pain with it being so big. To avoid getting rear deck fabric at bottom edge i reverse roll
it and before i squeegee i make a pass with my stroke dr along the bottom edge to pull the deck down, pulling any strands of fabric away.
 
As far as front 1/4s... newer civics are the hardest imo. 

Basically anything that starts with V and ends with W. 

" Cars that make you CRINGE... "
 
The ones with round wheels.....  

06 LS 430, I hate that f#*&ing car [emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

I only use spray way cleaner for windshields and 'never' flush.     

This is exactly right.  I had a competitor in my shop the other day complaining about how all he ever gets to tint is crap jobs.  He has the lowest prices in the city. I told him how to fix it...but I doubt he will listen.  

1. It is a lot hard to raise your prices then to start off at the level you want to be at. 
 
2. This is a valued skill which not everyone can do. Don't cut yourself short.
 
3. Your customer base is going to come according to the prices you charge. Want to work on junk, dirty cars owned by people that are going to nitpick your work? Charge low prices. Want to tint newer cars by reasonable people? Charge accordingly. 
 
You will save yourself a ton of headaches by being towards the higher end of the price scale then the lower.  All smart business people, in any business, will tell you that. Look at all those joke sites - People of Walmart - and such. Walmart has rock bottom prices.... and look at their customers. Full disclosure - I shop at walmart all the time. But I don't go shopping in my PJs.
 
 

What you charge depends on you; what are you worth? You're not going into business to rip people off but you also want to make a living while turning a profit. I don't know you're skill set so I can't give you an honest opinion on that but I will say you're at the near bottom on pricing. I've personally worked for shops that charge those prices and it becomes an overwhelming nightmare in a year or two. This is an art if your heart is in it and you can make good money but it's more than just hanging film and getting it out the door when you own the place.

Thats so cheap to strip and re tint a vehicle. we normally charge $15 per roll down/pocket window removal, sometimes more depending on how it removes, back glass starting at $50 and going all the way up to $150 maybe more hehe.
 
what series of SolarGard do you use?

Ive done many new & older and never noticed the problem with the window rolling down before going up??? I do always use the switch up front by driver. Anyways heres what i do. Roll out film on glass, trim along bottom seal and mark sides with marker. Then pull it off and prep glass for dry shrinking. Place film again and anchor it horizontally like normal. Dry shrink bottom half, stuff rag under bottom edge of film to pull it away from the glass, so you can roll it down for top cut. After doing the top cut wet under top portion and wet shrink it. Then just finish off by trimming sides and trim a hair off the bottom edge. This will reduce the chance of fingering during install.
For install i roll up film for reverse rolling. Then I jump in back with hatch shut, window all the way up. Clean, roll down glass, clean again, and reverse roll film. Then i crawl over thr back seat to the front driver switch and roll up the hatch glass then climb back and tuck bottom to finish.
I can wet shrink olders ones, but newer ones have a lot more curve, which can create fingers during install. Dry shrinking eliminated peanuts and fingering.

I would only use the dawn for cleaning, since its more harsh than baby shampoo. Think about it, one is used to wash a babys head and one is meant to break down grease and removed food stuck on dishes. Ive also noticed that the drip marks on door panel are more noticable with dawn. Howard at EWF posted something ahwile back about someone testing what dish soap does to film in a lab and that was enough to never use it.