Bham

Everything has been run of the mill lately, but this one was different.
 
Set of doors in HP30 and wrapped hood and upper bumper cover in Avery Rugged Onyx Black.
 
The pebbled texture has a bedliner look without adding 100lbs to the panel.
 
You wouldn't believe the stupidity involved in getting that bumper cover off of there. I probably could have laid it in place, but I didn't want a warranty issue to haunt me when my client is 1000mi away. And I like to snap the film arround the headlight curves and bezel.

Take those stupid spoiler guards off, jeez.  Stupid!!  Just stupid.   

Forgot how much of a pain in the ass the rear window is on the Chrysler PT Cruiser.  First attempt success with Xpel 15% XR ceramic.  Forgot to take some pics after install.

Adding the Global 70% ceramic to a factory 20% tinted glass would be RATHER beneficial as far as heat rejection, without making it any darker.  The 70% ceramic from Global performs amazingly, granted the color could be a little better, but I will overlook that part for the amount of IR and heat rejection you get out of such a clear-ish film.  I recommend this shade all the time to my senior customers who don't want to go any darker but complain about the heat.    

Take those stupid spoiler guards off, jeez.  Stupid!!  Just stupid.   

I know it's "just another Challenger", but DAMN!!!

Or just copy/paste something else.  Either way is good I guess.   

Tell us more about this wonderful product!  

Fair warning: Using anything that can interfere with nighttime (or daytime) visibility out the the front windshield can become a deciding factor, if discovered or reported, in any accident.
 
Insurance can refuse to participate in payouts based on the road worthiness aka legality and visibility factor.

Yes it it different.  The only vehicle that I know of that comes with a 30% factory glass is Toyota Tacoma and 4Runner. I have yet to see a Hyundai or Kia with anything other than a 20% factory glass.  Just like all the other mannies, their factory glass is somewhere around a 20%.  The fact you said your factory rear glass was a 30% is odd to me.  Just sayin... 
 
Also - IF? your rear glass is a factory 30% and you put 40% on the front two doors, at this point you are only about 5 maybe 7 percentage points different.  Factory clear glass with Global 40% on it usually meters at around 32% and that 70% ceramic added to the rear if it is 30% would only change take that down to about 22-25%.  If all of this is correct this is what your pictures look like to me.  The color or hue problem is due the factory glass color.  There in not one single film out there that matches factory glass color perfectly when added to the factory "green glass" on the front two doors. The factory rear glass is always a little different in color or hue.  
 
another thing is that all factory "green glass" on the front two doors is a different color or hue from manny to manny. Hell, Toyota 4Runner factory front doors are almost yellow or khaki compared to everyone else. And all of them meter a little different.  Usually around a 72% but that can vary a bunch of points either way depending on manufacturer.  I currently have a Toyota Highlander in the bay that meters 19% rear factory and 64% front "clear" "green glass"    

Woohoo. An easy Audi   
 
 

I have worked a few different ways when it comes to commission and that's really all I can go on for your information. 
 
I did a salary vs. commission where I was guaranteed a certain weekly pay even if I did not tint anything but if my commission earnings were more that what my salary would have been I received my commission pay instead of my salary pay.  On this job I was hired as a window tinter but was expected to help out the installers if needed but not paid to be an installer, just a tinter.  
 
I also worked an hourly including commission situation.  This was at an accessories shop so if I was not tinting windows I was turning wrenched on accessory installs. Received both hourly rate plus a commission check for tint every week. 
 
Have also done just straight commission as a tinter only. Not a bad way to go if the shop has enough work for you because there in nothing else for you to worry about except tinting.  
 
Re-do's are what they are.  If you have a good experienced tinter and you feel it fully necessary to charge them for product if having to redo something then go that route. Otherwise I would not penalize the tinter if they are on commission and not an hourly rate. Just let them redo the mistake and you as the film supplier just eat the extra film. This is of course if your redo's are at the minimum.  Constant redo's will have to be handled properly at your discretion.
 
Hourly is a little more difficult.  If on hourly I "might" deduct for the amount of film they are using to redo something and let them keep the hourly.  It really depends on the situation in this case.  

Woohoo. An easy Audi   
 
 

I have worked a few different ways when it comes to commission and that's really all I can go on for your information. 
 
I did a salary vs. commission where I was guaranteed a certain weekly pay even if I did not tint anything but if my commission earnings were more that what my salary would have been I received my commission pay instead of my salary pay.  On this job I was hired as a window tinter but was expected to help out the installers if needed but not paid to be an installer, just a tinter.  
 
I also worked an hourly including commission situation.  This was at an accessories shop so if I was not tinting windows I was turning wrenched on accessory installs. Received both hourly rate plus a commission check for tint every week. 
 
Have also done just straight commission as a tinter only. Not a bad way to go if the shop has enough work for you because there in nothing else for you to worry about except tinting.  
 
Re-do's are what they are.  If you have a good experienced tinter and you feel it fully necessary to charge them for product if having to redo something then go that route. Otherwise I would not penalize the tinter if they are on commission and not an hourly rate. Just let them redo the mistake and you as the film supplier just eat the extra film. This is of course if your redo's are at the minimum.  Constant redo's will have to be handled properly at your discretion.
 
Hourly is a little more difficult.  If on hourly I "might" deduct for the amount of film they are using to redo something and let them keep the hourly.  It really depends on the situation in this case.  

Commission is usually found in direct retail environments. If a shop sells an install for $---.xx an average installer should expect 35% of the sale for the labor.
 
An entry level guy might be 30% or less, or sometimes hourly. 
 
A top level guy that doesn't need a babysitter can easily get 40% to 45% of the total sales ticket. Once you get to this level most of these guys are 1099 subs and should be carrying their own insurance.
 
If the shop has a good sales team, good environment, good volume 40% is about the most you should have to pay. Shop keepers insurance shouldn't be to much, but require that you get a copy of their cert.
This is why some shop owners will only pay on a w2.
----
After that you get to the wholesalers who will provide film and services to shops who resale their work. Audio shops, fleet upfitters, small to medium dealerships. These guys will help the retailer set a list price and bill at a net of usually 70%. Also on 1099 and usually net 30 days.
----
After that is when an installer opens a full retail store to the public and the cycle starts over again as he trains or hires from the above list.
 
For what you are doing flat rate is about the way to go if the inventory is mostly similar. Most all pre-load situations are this way.
 
The only variation would be if you need to pull the door panels or other interior parts off for access or not because it adds more labor to the job, which can also be flat rated. You can check CCC1 at a bodyshop for labor times and divide by half usually and be pretty accurate.
 
Whew... I'm gonna go sit down with @Bham now. I'm out of breath.

For edifice, I've ran the gamut of all of these and prefer the wholesale position with a light mix of retail regulars/referrals over babysitting  installers.
 
As to your question of warranty work, a good installer should only have a few panels come back each year. I average about 5 or 6 annually, usually in the winter. A good installer should replace it without complaint.
 
If it's customer damage from a seatbelt etc. you should offer to comp him.

Being that you are in the Atlanta area, in my opinion your prices are too low.  I don't know many reputable shops that will touch a 4 door car for under $200.  That being said I would check your area prices at the other shops and match up as close as you can.  I might be wrong but I think if you will call around to some of the shops you want to compete with or be compared to and you will find that you might be selling yourself short.  $80 for a windshield is crazy.  $20 for a front strip will end up pissing off your installer more than anything else.  Sunroof and Pano prices are also way to low. 
 
No ceramic film options ??  I would at least have one upgrade film option or you will lose clientele to the shops that do. 
 
You can usually have a general price list but are also going to have adjust for more difficult vehicles. Tinting a Camry and tinting a BMW or Audi for the same price is just not correct.  Difficulty of install affects the price of the job.  Not all windshields and rear glass will be easy to shrink and you have to adjust for this or lose money on the back end.  Trying to price by number of windows is going to bite you in arse in the long run.  Not all windows are the same size and there is different difficulty from front doors to back doors to stupid little triangle windows in the A-pillars and so on etc.  
 
If you are supplying everything then you should probably consider a commission pay rate of some sort.  This person could still do other jobs at an hourly pay rate and still have a commission on tint jobs. Just can't see paying an hourly rate for tint because some jobs are going to take way longer than others.  

@Bham I read that as the rate to the installer for top tier work w/film provided. Marked up after from parts+service to the sales tower as part of the vehicle service pack embedded into the addendum.

Being that you are in the Atlanta area, in my opinion your prices are too low.  I don't know many reputable shops that will touch a 4 door car for under $200.  That being said I would check your area prices at the other shops and match up as close as you can.  I might be wrong but I think if you will call around to some of the shops you want to compete with or be compared to and you will find that you might be selling yourself short.  $80 for a windshield is crazy.  $20 for a front strip will end up pissing off your installer more than anything else.  Sunroof and Pano prices are also way to low. 
 
No ceramic film options ??  I would at least have one upgrade film option or you will lose clientele to the shops that do. 
 
You can usually have a general price list but are also going to have adjust for more difficult vehicles. Tinting a Camry and tinting a BMW or Audi for the same price is just not correct.  Difficulty of install affects the price of the job.  Not all windshields and rear glass will be easy to shrink and you have to adjust for this or lose money on the back end.  Trying to price by number of windows is going to bite you in arse in the long run.  Not all windows are the same size and there is different difficulty from front doors to back doors to stupid little triangle windows in the A-pillars and so on etc.  
 
If you are supplying everything then you should probably consider a commission pay rate of some sort.  This person could still do other jobs at an hourly pay rate and still have a commission on tint jobs. Just can't see paying an hourly rate for tint because some jobs are going to take way longer than others.  

Ding Ding Ding...we have a winner🏆
 
....that is unless steveo wants to hit the meth pipe again and feed himself to a crocodile🐊🐊🌴
 
Unfortunately mobile work is very difficult to get correct, as previously stated, and most guys offering mobile services are otherwise unemployable, like the clown that keeps showing up in this thread. 

Physics really sucks.

If you're in a climate zone that demands dual-pane, reflectivity is elevated compared to single pane.
 
Then there's the problem with film products not being able to achieve lower than glass reflectivity without losing two-way visibility.
 
Buying and replacing existing glass with anti-reflect glass is way too pricey and if it were dual-pane, that would be special made and requiring twice the amount of anti-reflect glass.
 
Sucks doesn't it?

That is a rather bad install.  Could definitely be better BUT being that this is a mobile install it is going to be tough getting done any better. Some mobile installers can do a decent job but not in most cases.  Uncontrolled environment creates horrible installs.  Assuming it is winter wherever you are, having it redone could lead to just about the same quality of install if it is redone mobile.  

That is a rather bad install.  Could definitely be better BUT being that this is a mobile install it is going to be tough getting done any better. Some mobile installers can do a decent job but not in most cases.  Uncontrolled environment creates horrible installs.  Assuming it is winter wherever you are, having it redone could lead to just about the same quality of install if it is redone mobile.  

That is a rather bad install.  Could definitely be better BUT being that this is a mobile install it is going to be tough getting done any better. Some mobile installers can do a decent job but not in most cases.  Uncontrolled environment creates horrible installs.  Assuming it is winter wherever you are, having it redone could lead to just about the same quality of install if it is redone mobile.  

You would likely do better in Texas. Most of Florida is saturated with installers. Pricing is a race to the bottom down there. @Bham is correct in suggesting south fla if that was your pick. A word of caution; Miami is not what you see on tv. You can go a few blocks in any direction from a famous landmark and be directly in the hood. The sharks are eating the sharks down there.
 
I would personally recommend looking at Fort Worth, north Dallas or Houston for areas of concentrated wealth to draw from.