TintDude

18 minutes ago, AgentK said:

The tinter agreed and said they changes film suppliers to Xpel so now it shouldn't be an issue,

That is contamination and has nothing to do with the brand of film, but rather the installer did a not so perfect job.

Thanks you guys! 

So I have a peeling hood on my truck and was thinking wrapping it might be a good solution.

I've never worked with wrap, so I don't know if this would be a good one to try myself or have it done professionally?

Also, what do you think I might expect to pay?

If it's something I can do myself, does anyone have any recommendations?

I was thinking flat black, as the truck is blue metallic and the paint is ok on the rest of it. Also, what material should I use?

Sorry for all the noob questions.  

like nothing happened, very nice!  

You can water proof just about any shoe with Scotchgard spray if it helps.  

Anytime  

Sometimes 409 and steel wool will work, but I hate using it.

I like the lighting too.  

That's strange. We don't use anything that would cause those kinds of stains during tinting, just soapy water. So what ever happened, I doubt it was a direct result of that door being tinted under any normal circumstances.

I'd have to hear both sides to make a call on that.

Oh I see now. Sorry I misunderstood.

As far as the scratches, if they were from something doing that when the window is being rolled up and down, the line(s) would be perfectly straight and vertical in my experience.  

There might be some misunderstanding. That flap is supposed to come out like that. The ends aren't attached. We pull those out all the time to get a clean job, they fit right back in.

Maybe I am misunderstanding.  

Yeah, there is one little spot that could have been better.

The tinter didn't cut the ends of that flap.

The rubber trim talked about is in set windows, like quarter windows, a very small strip of rubber is cut to hide the edge of the film.

That's normal. Some shops leave a very slight gap, some do what's called filing, bringing the film past the edge and then cutting the film at the edge. 

I prefer leaving the small gap, as it is not seeable when the window is up, and there is less chance of it getting constant friction on that film edge from rolling up.

As long as the gap is clean and very small, it's OK.

Is that your crew?

Hey Tom good to see you. 

Hope you don't mind I change the topic title for obvious reasons.

No, that will not get less noticeable over time. The hair is trapping air around it, so it's not going to get better over time.

Very similar to this: https://anspachmedia.com/do-you-accept-credit-cards-text-scam/

It is a scam, and an old one. 

That's normal and can't really be avoided. It's talked about at the bottom of this page: https://www.tintdude.com/care.html

and that first attempt...dang that's bad.

The defroster lines came away with the original tint when they removed it. It's toast.

It's not the tint that needs replacing now, it's the glass.

 thanks!

I've done tons of both and dreaded every single flat glass job. There was always some complication.

Usually each shop I worked for offered both. So for me being on commission, I'd have to stop working on cars to go give free $%^ing estimates. I hated it and always felt like I was being taken advantage of.