Tintguy1980

Pube h311, that's a lost elephant sperm.

A keg runs more than a day or two depending upon vehicle flow-thru. Not good as the slip solution tends to loose its slip over that time. Day one with new mix may be great, using same mix on day 3+, not so good.
 
Bubble bath, I'm sure has been tried by others along with various other soaps, which turn out to be harmful to the film's adhesive life over the long haul. This is why products such as Tintslime, Film-on, and knock-offs were created. They may not have the slip-ability of the ones the industry prefer you avoid, but it's as simple as increasing the dilution ratio to meet the season.
 
Also, less push against when positioning goes a long way. Fingertips and palms can and will act as tiny squeegees, pushing the moisture out and pressing the adhesive into contact with the glass before its time.

Good plan to let the shop attempt to clear this up.

One unorthodox effort would be to carefully create a small slit next to and parallel to the defrost line and then carefully press out that half of the peanut. Fingernail must stop at the slit. Repeat on other side of defrost line with even more care not to disrupt the tiny amount of film over the defrost line (between each slit). This allows the stubborn pucker to grab the glass surface as opposed to grabbing the defroster material. It also seals off any air feed along the defrost line to the affected area.
 
I've done this with success and without damaging the small amount of film between each slit, nor causing any damage to the defrost line by way of razor blade use. A steady hand IS an absolute.

I generally use Seventh Generation Free and Clear during the cooler months because it doesn't have a bunch of unnecessary filler in it and doesn't dry out my skin. Probably 5ml per bottle, more or less depending on how it tacks. 
 
Hot weather months I use baby shampoo because it has a higher wax content to slow down the tacking. 
 
Also the pump up bottles are over rated. The geometry puts too much pressure on my hands if I use one all day. The el-cheapo zep bottles at HD are my favorite. 
 
As @Tintguy1980 says rince em out if you're not using them everyday otherwise wax will settle and build up, getting stuck in the trigger especially. I'll keep mine flushed and filled back up with plain water, but I also run em out daily.

I've seen worse but that could have definitely been done better.

@Ryker I'm in the Chicago suburbs, so it hasn't been sunny much at all. I'll try this a couple more times and see if the sun helps, though I'm parked in a heated garage. What about a hair dryer? I don't have a heat gun @Tintguy1980 I saw this method posted here before; will try if nothing else works and if the shop themselves can't get it out.

That's one of the reasons I'm not always a fan of running a keg. I like to change the mix on the fly. Big swings in weather combined with a few euro cars in the schedule doesn't always suit one mix.
 
With that said I do tend to run 7th Generation Free/Clear dishsoap in the winter and switch to JnJ for more slide in the summer.

This^^^.  Air temp and humidity will play havoc on your slip solution if you don't pay attention.  

Most seasoned window tinters in the US know that the vast majority of film makers, converters and suppliers are in bed with each other. The big guys might buy a component or more from a smaller guy and vice versa.
 
Last I knew Garware was the only vertically integrated window film manny in the world (i.e., capable of manufacturing every component needed to construct any of their film offerings), with Eastman (formerly CPFilms) coming in second to Garware's capabilities.
 
That's about all you'll get out of this tintguy because all others should be considered converters (i.e., having to buy more than one component to construct a film product).
 
I might be way off one this because it's been too many years since being immersed the industry.
 
Nice of you to pass through. I believe any cold shoulder feel from visiting may be based in the fact that NDA's rule the industry at many levels and those slinging the film daily don't give two how it's made or who makes it as long as it will last.

https://iwfa.com/distributors/

Proper way to clean any spray bottle used for installing window film is to dump unused at the end of each day, thoroughly rinse, and set upside down overnight to drain and dry.

Residuals of many soaps used by tinters can and will build up on the internal surface of these bottles and congeal over time only to release as tiny globules and show up under the film.
 
Someone can chime in and point you to slip agents best suited for installing film and lessen the production of these specks. Even so, it is still best to rinse each and every time you are finished for the day.

https://iwfa.com/distributors/

You can come to my shop and bring your own film, the charge would be as follows:
 
1. I install your net-bought film = $300, no warranties.
 
2. I install film I bought as a professional = $300, all warranties apply.

I came here this morning to say exactly what's said in the above quote minus the BMW story; fine scratches on many occasions are invisible to the eye until a window film is applied.

25% VLT IF it is safe for dual-pane glazing however, 25% will increase the reflective look when looking at the glass from the street.
 
Story: I had a girlfriend that wanted to have sex next to a large window facing a major highway in a local office complex that had me come over to give an estimate to remove and replace. It was tinted with a 20% VLT, high reflective tint (mirrored) and there was a Mc D's across the street. I says, No F'in' way; we'd have to be a bit further back from the glass and even then someone with a keen eye could spot something amiss on the inside of that glass since the sun was hitting that side of the building. Different if it was a shaded side.

25% VLT IF it is safe for dual-pane glazing however, 25% will increase the reflective look when looking at the glass from the street.
 
Story: I had a girlfriend that wanted to have sex next to a large window facing a major highway in a local office complex that had me come over to give an estimate to remove and replace. It was tinted with a 20% VLT, high reflective tint (mirrored) and there was a Mc D's across the street. I says, No F'in' way; we'd have to be a bit further back from the glass and even then someone with a keen eye could spot something amiss on the inside of that glass since the sun was hitting that side of the building. Different if it was a shaded side.

A dual-reflective, 30-35% visible light transmitted, would provide sufficient daytime privacy and lessen the threat of glass breakage and or dual pane seal failure. Limo dark would definitely cause problems relating to thermal shock and seal failure in dual pane glazing systems.
 
A 35% VLT dual-reflective (DR film) barely changes the appearance of a dual pane window (looking from street to home). However, it does enhance privacy (comparable to having sheer curtains). Just don't stand within a few feet (<6') of the window with your birthday suit on ... most especially when the sun shines directly on that window.
 
Edit: when peeling liner from film (especially film with sticky glue), use your mouth as a third hand to hold one corner and the free hand to peel the liner down. Or have someone peel and pull down. To keep the film from curling onto itself, do not peel the liner completely off; let 1-2 inches remain attached at the bottom to weight the film down.

Proper way to clean any spray bottle used for installing window film is to dump unused at the end of each day, thoroughly rinse, and set upside down overnight to drain and dry.

Residuals of many soaps used by tinters can and will build up on the internal surface of these bottles and congeal over time only to release as tiny globules and show up under the film.
 
Someone can chime in and point you to slip agents best suited for installing film and lessen the production of these specks. Even so, it is still best to rinse each and every time you are finished for the day.

The trade is more difficult than it seems, so don't put the cart before the horse.

@flat rock stanis a top instructor.  Has a video set too.

Mobile is about the worst situation for a new tinter. Apprentice for a local retail shop, in one stationary spot, until you figure it out if you are thinking of making any income from your efforts 

It would be the shop. Getting certified is not hard, usually the rep will want to watch you shrink/install a rear window. Do a good job and the new shop will be certified. You could see if the rep is the same for both shops and remind them you were already certified at the old shop.

It's also possible that the prior owner had some film removed before turning it back in. If they are on the outside I would likely rule out the shop was at fault. No reason to blade the outside really.  Scratches always get more noticed once tint is applied because of the darker contrast.

Honestly, a lot of them look like residue not scratches. As mentioned, maybe tint was removed and the new tint shop did not properly clean the windows. If they are scratches, I highly doubt the shop had anything to do with it since those scratches don't make any sense from a tint installation perspective. I assume they were there already and just was not noticeable when the glass was clear but now stand out due to the black background. Lastly, brand new 2023 vehicles are not immaculate, so that 2019 is definitely not. May be super clean but impossible not to have flaws. We had a 2023 BMW M8 Competition ($140k+) in recently and blew his mind when we pointed a bunch of flaws. He would have swore it was perfect and blamed us if he noticed damage after the tint job.