poppawilly67

sucks you got  to pull the panels to remove sweeps. 

super easy to pull sweeps on.  remove the plastic cover behind door handle.  remove screw.  top of the panel pops back with little effort and remove sweep..  no felt seals to tape.  this truck is easy money.  make sure you cover door panels to protect stitching on top of the door panel.

ask for a redo.  if the redo comes out the same, then ask for the tint to be removed and a refund.  window tint installers are just like everyone else, they have their good and bad days.  

i drive a 2004 4 door silverado.  i have 5% over factory, 5% on front doors with a 10" windshield strip (measured at the ends) across the top.  riding dirty in oklahoma.

bottom load here.  the only time i top load is if i have to fight to get a sweep out or i just want to top load for the sport of it.  90% of the time, its bottom load because if i have the sweeps out, i can cover the door panels.

gaps do look a little excessive on the wings and rear glass. 

if i was starting out, i would start with tinting cars.  heat shrinking makes or breaks tinters.  learn how to to back car back glasses in one piece.  another tip is learn how to prep as the installation is as only good as the prep.  and last but not least, only use stainless steel blades on glass NOT CARBON.  dont get in no hurry.  take your time and do good prep and installs.  no light gaps.  make it pretty.

i use a jiffy j-4000 to remove film.  and if it dont take the glue with the film, i use ATR and a white scrubby to loosen it up then paper towel it right off.  presuming we are talking about automotive tinting.

nope

On 10/17/2018 at 4:46 PM, jh812 said:

You can call me whatever you want when you're handing me 100 dollar bills

 

what he said.  wont bother me one bit.  ive spent time in  military so ive been called worse.

whats with all the specs?

sometimes i do and sometimes i dont.  if shop doors are closed, i dont.  if doors are open, i do.  i prefer to do all my tinting with bay doors down but i seem to attract more walk ins when doors are up.

On 10/27/2018 at 2:57 AM, Sunbreakers said:

@poppawilly67So I assume that when you mean “blistered” you mean that you got so much water out of the film that it was drying quickly leaving the film covered in what looks like tiny uniformed water bubbles across the entire surface of the film? 

yes exactly

just purchased a redline and used it yesterday on a 2014 silverado.  when i rolled the truck out of the shop, all windows where blistered AF on the inside. 

every thing i have done to try and eliminate gaps have failed.  im convinced the only way to do these quarters and not gap them is to pull the glass.  even the clear liner with a sharpie pattern dont work. 

ive been bouncing back and forth with a tape measure.  good tip!!!

and this is why i cover door panels.

black trash bags is cheaper.

silver sharpie here.

just tinted this car 2 days ago.  if you are a bottom loader, make it easy on yourself and pull the panels on this one.  one screw behind upper handle and one screw below handle and the panels pop right off.  the front door panels hump up towards the front of the window which makes it a pain to 2 stage.  back glass is a cake walk dry shrink but only anchor horizonal across the middle.  no "H' pattern.  also on back glass before shrinking, trim the sides as close to the border without going over.  that helps make shrinking alot easier.  one my scale of 1-10 degree of difficulty scale, i give this car a 2.  easy money.

i dont do full windshields but i reverse roll the hell out of those back glasses.  i get cleaner installs reverse rolling.  i like the reverse so much, i even reverse roll flat back glasses on pickups.  however when doing hatchbacks like rogue, terrain ect, i will frankie those.

solarfx ultra for the win.  back in the day, i used cheap film and boy have i paid for that.  customers coming back wanting it redone for free some of which i have honored.  ive learned my lesson and will never make that mistake again ever.

i just work and pay bills.  all day every day.

6 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Is ultra the same price as carbon or more and is the Vintage cheaper from solar FX

no.  carbon is higher than ultra price wise and vintage is about 20 bucks cheaper per roll.  when i first started using solarfx, i stated with vintage and a short time later i switched to ultra because a couple of friends that also tints is using ultra.  ultra is a color stable film and holdds its color good.  and it handles this oklahoma heat well too.  ultra is all i use.  i dont do ceramic or nothing like that as i try to keep my prices down because not many people in my area will drop 4-6 hundred to have their vehicle tinted in ceramic.  my customers love ultra and so do i so im sticking with that.

On 8/22/2018 at 10:05 AM, Tint Slayer said:

Ever try the CarbonFX? What's the color like on the Ultra? 

havent tried the carbonFX.  ultra has been working great for me.  the color is good and ive been using this film for 3 years now and love everything about it.  its a rock solid film.  like the ole saying goes "if it aint broke, dont fix it".  ultra has been a good film and i looked at cars i tinted when i first started using the film and it still looks as good as the day i installed it.  it handles that oklahoma heat well.  with that being said, i am holding to ultra.