CaliTINT

On ‎9‎/‎15‎/‎2018 at 10:51 AM, quality tintz said:

Thanks is it good stuff...???

Good stuff 

3 hours ago, Bham said:

 

I would recommend going just a little larger, if you can afford it.  I have a 46"x80" piece and it is perfect for any size window.  

 

The reason I say this, most full size truck rear glass is 62" (just over 5' ) across the bottom, same with some front strips being about 62"-64", so if you can get a 6' piece, I would recommend it.  That extra foot will come in handy.  Also, you want to be able to roll out a 40" roll of film for splitting or backglasses and whatnot, a 3" piece won't allow this.   4foot by 6foot is the smallest I look for in a peel board size.  

Agreed, if you can fit it get this size. That's what we use and it fits everything you mentioned plus 2 side windows side by side for faster trimming and peeling.

I usually leave 3-4 \inches of liner on the bottom. 

Both. Watch videos to get an understanding and visualize the concepts, paired with lots of reading/research, etc. Then get physical training so when you start, you hit the ground running. 

Gotcha, I will search again  and ask my glass guys if they are able to get their hand on any. Thanks!

13 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

I got one a couple of months ago. The first one I got was the last one in the Bay Area and it broke during transport before it got to me. Just my luck that one was OEM. My glass guy was able to secure another one for me that was aftermarket but It took a couple of weeks coming from the east coast. It’s Chinese glass but worked as a shrinking mold. 

 

The OEM glass list for $800 dealer employee pricing is like $500. 

Cool, thanks! I'll look again and also ask the glass guys for an update. 

On ‎8‎/‎25‎/‎2018 at 11:25 PM, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

Save yourself the hassle and get an aftermarket glass for about $150. Then hand cut it. Shrinking with all the cuts is a pain just shrink the whole thing and then hand cut it. 

I tried. I asked several local glass companies and they said an aftermarket glass was not available at the time (dealer only). I checked websites to order from the dealer and online and prices were $600+ and some also said not available to the public. I even checked a few junkyards. 

So are you telling me that there is an aftermarket glass available now? Did you buy one? Where? Last time I checked was maybe 3-4 months ago with no luck. 

That the way I was trained as well before Tintdude also. Saw the sharpie method on a video and I no longer do those cuts on a car

Same here. I started with Blue Max, tried Orange Crush and went back to Blue Max. 

There was a video of a guy who did this without removing anything. I tried his method and failed 3 times. My 4th attempt I decided to try and shrink it almost like normal on the glass. I was able to successfully shrink the film while it was underneath the bottom spoiler. I just put my tac line way lower very close to the spoiler and also taped up the spoiler to protect it. I did have to use a liner to draw a pattern at first. Not sure if I'm just going to take it apart next time or what lol

Luckily I read someones previous post about how they are easily damaged. I put masking tape on them and I did accidentally bump the door. Thankfully the taped protected it. 

Kinda like on UBER!

Yes I learned from experience myself that pretty much most Mazdas burn easy. So I always use a hard card to protect the vehicle while heating. 

GLOBAL

Could it be they used a plotter to cut the film? and the glass is just uneven? I do notice some top edges of windows are uneven. Looks like your is slightly uneven to me which might explain it???

I'm undecided lol. It could've been lined up a bit better???

20 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

 

I feel exactly the same as you guys. I love Global but it makes my job selling just a bit harder.my tried an true customers take my word for it that Global can complete with the rest of them.  That’s why I’m switching and I’m now a LULU dealer. It’s just gonna be easier to sell. 

Awesome. LULU just stopped by my shop coincidentally. I been thinking of switching to them for a while. Might use both. 

I don't remember about the brake light on this car. But I have done a few 17 & 18  and I did them in one piece using 40in rolls

Yup! Some glass just doesn't take water as well as others. Couple of things I do is keep a marked bottle with extra slip. Also, I spray the window down, peel my film, spray the film, carry the film  to the glass with one hand/arm, and then spray more solution on the glass right before applying. 

On ‎7‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 8:17 PM, Super Dave said:

We used to do that at the first shop I worked for. (B.P. - before plotter). Back then, trucks mostly had pop out 1/4’s or vents, but we’d save anything that didn’t roll up and down. We’d adjust until everyone agreed that was the best possible pattern and then it would usually get cut onto a piece of limo. So if you were digging for a pattern and found a piece of limo lumped in with the clear liners- you definitely traced that one. Haven’t thought about that in years! Those dang patterns were everywhere, the place had been open 15-20 yrs when I started, and there were 8 of us tinting at that time- I’m sure you can imagine how fast your clear liner patterns can accumulate!

Yes its pretty awesome keeping the patterns. I never used a plotter yet. But even I did a Tacoma today and had the patterns for the 3 piece rear window which took like a few minutes to cut out without having to cut on the truck, put up a light, clean the outside of the windows, etc. saves time in my book. 

But yeah I can imagine how many patterns you guys had!!! 

10 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Ok how do you cut top edge on car or on peel board or do you shave everything??? On side windows...

Oh let me clarify. I don't keep templates for the doors like @6aeten does. Not sure how he does that. I keep them for mostly quarter windows, some side ones (even easy ones) and some back glass (like wranglers, 3 piece Tacoma, etc.). I keep easy ones because instead of cutting on the car I can double cut some of them and also less risk of scratches on windows. 

23 minutes ago, quality tintz said:

Wow kool the human plotter....!!! Are the patterns on clear liners ???

I keep patterns off of the clear liners and mark the year/make/model. It does go for a faster job and less guessing if the pattern is accurate.

As a beginner I did 40" to cover all my bases (rears) which works fine and split it into 20" for most sides. As we have been able to increase our inventory I added 20" in the more popular shades to do most side windows.

Now we have been able to increase our inventory for almost everything: 

40" and 36" to cover big rear windows

and I have some small rolls for strips 10" & 12" I believe in  2 shades only 5% & 20%

6 hours ago, 6aeten said:

 

Keep one set of templates for EVERY vehicle.. im talking all 4 doors each qtr and rear glass.... mark each one, ie front driver, 36x18, panels 2 screws easy,..... store until needed next time that car comes in....

 

I have patterns for every car/truck I have done since since '85-'90.... makes window tinting life sooo much easier

Wow! How do you store all these patterns? We use cut up card board boxes and make them into huge folders and most recently I place the patterns in a marked separate file (toyota, honda, audi, etc.) and then placed into the cardboard folder. I don't have each car, each year separated so it's kind of annoying looking for the template lol

1 minute ago, quality tintz said:

Rite !!!

The installer probably thought that nobody would ever really notice lol. 

Not sure about the seals. But most of the car is pretty easy and straight forward. The only issue I have with some of these Mazdas is installing on the front windows. Not much space on the sides closer to the mirror. I top load and don't pull panels but I always get these done. No major issues. 

Wow. Definitely a redo. I would've never let that leave our shop like that.