CaliTINT

I haven't begun bottom loading lol. But the back quarters aren't bad at all. I keep the template for future use

I have seen these strange imperfections that looked like burns also on glass. They aren't really visible until you tint the car if we are talking about the same thing. 

22 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Is a 36 by 100 ceramic a good price?? Whos your sales rep??

From what I know of the costs of other major manufacturers' films it is definitely at a lower price point. I go through Express. Not sure if they serve your area as well in NM but I would think they do? 

How long have you been tinting?

I use, love, and recommend Global as well. I too question that price which seems extremely low. Global - Quick Dry Plus - Ceramic (QDPC) has a noticeably green hue versus the other lines of Global films so that is one way to tell

12 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:

It sucks because I turn several model 3’s away every week. I carry Global Ceramic and have 5,18,33,42,50,70 &80%. Although they come in 60” rolls I have them down to cut 22” & 38”. This will work on virtually every car out there. Now I would have to buy every roll and stock them all in 60” just to tint one backglass on one car model. I did order one roll in 60” but until I get one under my belt then I’ll consider buying the entire line. Seriously it’s in consideration because that’s a lot of coin left on the table not servicing them. 

I'm with you on that! I've turned down several over the last few month because I don't want to buy 60" in all those VLTs in Global Ceramic. 

I bought a "training roll" from EXO Shield which has imperfections. I have not yet purchased a production roll because I have not successfully been able to master and windshields yet lol. Well only tried 2-3 times, no luck. I did put it on my Wrangler which was super easy. So I'm thinking of mainly marketing this product to Wrangler owners in my area since the windshield is so prone to damage. 

Check out EXO SHIELD. I'm currently testing it out. Had it on my vehicle for less than a year. It's holding up decent. Some wiper scratches and weathering are visible only under certain lighting conditions (like around dusk). It does the job but is super thick and hard to work with IMO

Why not just get a business license? Not hard or expensive at all. And it will help you be more legit. 

Unless you are trying to avoid big brother????

7 hours ago, Jake said:

I have realy like it. Have no real complaints about the film at all. I went from Global to this. I use Xpel Ppf also so it made it nice to order from one place. I love Global, but it is not a brand customers can do much online research on. Xpel may not have a large presence in the tint world yet, but it has a solid trusted name in PPF  so I think that can carry over into tint when customers are looking a it from a brand stand point.

Thanks for your opinion. I use Global as well and feel the same when it comes to brand recognition/online presence. Was thinking of using their top lines of films. Maybe all? 

On ‎5‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 7:04 AM, Jake said:

I have gotten 2 under my belt now. Both done in Xpel XR ceramic. I can't speak for you Crystalline guy because I know that film is another beast, but it really is not bad to do. The rear window is more time consuming because of the size. But they have been priced accordingly so I have felt good about doing  them. I used a 60" and shrank to the sides. Then I back rolled the film from the bottom to the top. Use a bit of extra slip to give you the extra time to squeegee out the water from the back glass. The plastic around the back glass sticks out a bit farther then the frit edge. So when you cutting make sure your not following the plastic and cutting it short.  I have talked with more owners then the ones I have tinted.Seems these owner are going to be a different breed. They act like they are Elon Musk himself. 

Off topic, but how do you like that Xpel film? I was just on their site a few minutes ago reading about it. Was thinking of trying it out

Hmmm, probably not. Pretty much every major manufacturer will only sell to legit business' and professionals. Some have more requirements than others. You might find some decent film out there but probably not quality. 

I think one of the biggest costs associated with opening up a location is the location itself. How much work it will need to make it into a tint shop will greatly vary. Sometimes you may need to do costly construction work, and sometimes the location will need little to no work except maybe some paint, furniture, office stuff etc. Save up as much capital as you can so you can start out right.

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:08 AM, bpbv6-6 said:

 

without my trainer beside me i lose focus and panic and forget my steps he taught me. Rear windows are way easier. For roll up windows, I only need to pull film down for tuck and to the side when cutting only if the window shfits right? if its just a window that goes down and up and doesnt shift then just leave enough slack at the bottom only  for tuck correct?

With experience and confidence you will panic less. Trust me I was only trained for a few weeks and on my own ever since. Everything else I learned was through experience, forums, videos, etc. 

I assume you are doing everything on the car. I finish my patterns on my peel board. But I pretty much leave extra on every car. If it shifts, I will leave way more slack. 

25 minutes ago, CaliTINT said:

 

On ‎6‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 2:04 AM, bpbv6-6 said:

 

 

are you guys familiar with 2006 accord sedan rear pass door small windows?  I had issues today...I didnt know how to tuck into such tight sprace, so othter tinters suggested to cut as far as I can to that window and tuck a bit. The thing is, I also cant reach up into the very narrow part of that rear tiny door window. My contour card wont do it so I have bubbles. Also what is the cause of small white pinholes in the tint after being applied? is that a case of not cleaning all the dust off? 

I just looked this vehicle up. On ones like these I loosen up the seals using older installation tools before hand. Just shove them all around the seal to loosen them up. Also to prevent those white pinholes which are probably specks of dirt you need to really clean up in the seals. Personally, if it is really dirty I will spray foam glass cleaner in the seal and using an old tool and thin microfiber rag and jam it up there. I may follow up with a blue paper towel (one that doesn't tear) and jam it all the way around for a last cleaning pass. Then squeegee a few times. When installing on these types of windows I don't spray my solution up into the seals because this will cause any residual dirt to drip down. I might do a light spray on the window and then spray lots of solution on the tint while I'm holding it in my hand. Hope that all makes sense. 

Also as far as being able to reach into that tight of a corner, you are going to have to get more tools to deal with all situations. The contour is a great tool but doesn't fit every where. I would probably use the EZ reach (Gold, Platinum, etc.) or a bondo card cut into a similar shape as the EZ reach. 

I noticed that happens sometimes when I'm trying to push out fingers, water bubbles, etc. on  the back glass. Especially if the film has been on the car for lets say more than half an hour or you put a little heat on it. I assumed it was trapped air from around the defroster lines being dragged through drying adhesive. That is if we are talking about the same glue smudges here. 

Just imagine if you were doing a phone order for this tool. 

On ‎6‎/‎22‎/‎2018 at 6:55 AM, Tint Slayer said:

Those back glass redo's are a heartbreaker

Totally!!!!!

3 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Nice like one clean one and one old reclyled one i get it....

Yeah bro I'm frugal. Not no cheapo but I don't like to waste. I even recycle some of the towels and use them to clean other stuff like the shop bathroom, toilet, etc. hahahaha

20 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Got any tricks for blue max nicks sandpaper or card sharpener.??

I honestly never tried the card sharpener. Been think about ordering one. I usually just have a good stock of all the squeegees/tools on hand lol. I could have my own store haha. 

For the blue max I have hit it with some sandpaper before and it helps. I have a lot of grits on hand for headlight restoration. Usually used 2000 and followed with 3000

10 hours ago, quality tintz said:

Do you use 2 towels per car ??? Or 2 towels for two cars ? Bro 

Both (if that makes sense). I use one used blue towel for cleaning out seals etc. And one new towel (for wiping down squeegee, etc.). I think the problem before was I was using the newer (cleaner) towel on more than a few cars and the fibers started to come out. I still use the grungy towels on several cars for seals and get a new one for 1-2 cars for other stuff. Hope that made sense lol

I've had two CLA's that we did and afterwards the key wasn't detected. Luckily before we did the job I let the customer know of potential electrical issues when tinting so when it did happen she was already made aware of it. Just told the customer to start it manually and they went home. Texted me the next day to let me know it started working as normal. 

You really just have to get your feet wet. As a (learning) tinter, you are going to come across lots of vehicles that take a different approach to it. You need to be resourceful, think outside the box, analyze and execute certain techniques. Also with cars you aren't sure of, just simply look it up on this forum and/or on youtube. Usually someone has discussed it or made a video on it. 

Hell I was working on a car today that I have done plenty of (but not enough of them lately). I kinda forgot my procedure on it and ended up redoing the back window 3 times before getting it right. In the end, I just analyzed the glass, etc. and came up with a solution. Also checked up on the forums for tips and its done.