Darkimag22
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Posts posted by Darkimag22
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Park it outside in the sun. How you "cure" it will have zero impact on the film. It's not rocket science so why make it more complicated than it needs to be lol?!
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7 hours ago, nehuge said:
Okay, so if you had 1988 Mustang glass out of the vehicle and 1988 Porsche 944 glass out of the vehicle, what makes the Porsche take twice as long besides more film? Just trying to follow the logic.
The logic is that you have no idea what is easy and what is difficult when it comes to tinting...if you did, none of us would be having this ridiculous conversation.
Just curious...what vehicle EXACTLY are you wanting tinted??? Or is it still a secret???
- Diablo's Tint and Dano
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I wouldn't even consider agreeing to tint ANY glass out of any vehicle without knowing what I'm up against. The 80s have many, many not so nice vehicles to work on...even with the glass removed (it can actually make it more difficult in some cases). No different, for example, if I was selling a vehicle but wouldn't list make, model, year and just say it has 4 doors and 4 tires...a vehicle is a vehicle, right? I think you are being a little too paranoid thinking someone is going to rip you off lol. Good luck.
- Diablo's Tint, Dano and TintDude
- 3
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Take it back, get them to remove it ALL, get a 100% refund and try to find a different "professional" tint business. It's places like this that give us a bad rep!
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I remove the quarters from the vehicle when there is only a rubber gasket. A bit more work but they are so much easier to deal with.
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- TintDude, Bham, highplains and 2 others
- 5
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It is probably easier to go on youtube and watch some videos but I'll try to explain as best as I can. In a nutshell you want to cut one side of the rolldown, shift the film over by 6-8mm on the same side you just cut, cut the other edge and then shift it back to "center" it (same amount of overlap on both vertical edges), roll the window down and then do your final cut along the top edge. As long as there is no light gaps you are good to go.
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I use my own film or nothing. I am the one installing it, I'm the one with my name on it...no way would I use a different film.
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I really don't think it was the tinter. If it was from shrinking the top edge of the film prior to install, would there not be a "hard" cutoff line where the squeegee went from the tint onto the glass??? That is a LOT of scratches.
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This^^^. Air temp and humidity will play havoc on your slip solution if you don't pay attention.
- Tintguy1980 and Dano
- 2
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Hell....Stevie Wonder could have done a better install. The owner must have a huge set of balls to have the arrogance to not only half-ass threaten you, but to say there's nothing wrong (I assume you sent him pictures...lots of them I hope). This seems to be a reoccurring theme in this day and age...it's always someone else's fault/pass the blame/excuse after excuse. It's guys like that that are ruining the tint business for everyone else. It does mean more work for the legit businesses at times but seeing pics like this make my blood boil.
I wish the OP nothing but good luck. I hope this doesn't cost you any more out of pocket expenses. Fingers crossed.
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To be 100% honest...I'm not sure if there is such thing as a "perfect" install. Just think about it for a couple seconds...we are installing a wet, sticky sticker. There is dust hiding everywhere...in the seats, in the headliner, in the air. Good luck. I sure as hell feel bad for the shop you choose to do business with, though.
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I've used Milwaukee heat guns for years. Last gun lasted 10+ years and just replaced it with this model...
https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/8977-20
- Tint Slayer and TintDude
- 2
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It's a brand new car...if there are ANY cut marks it's on the installer 100%. As far as proving it...any reputable shop would fix what they f%cked up (then again any reputable shop would not allow a hack job like this). I would look very closely at all seams and edges as cuts on darker paint will not be hard to see if there are any (which I really hope there isn't). Good luck man.
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If this is the work that the owner allows to leave his shop I would be asking (demanding, actually) a refund. I would make sure to be there when the PPF is removed because I would put money of it that there is cut paint in more places than one. Seeing this kind of workmanship makes my blood boil. As far as the tint goes, I would maybe give them one more shot at making it right but I wouldn't have very high expectations. Sorry to be a Debbie downer but I hope there is no damage to the paint and I hope you are able to get this all fixed.
The 2nd last pic is the PPF...again, not installed correctly. All the little white specks are dust. Literally looking over your pictures shaking my head.
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I've used both and to be 100% honest I prefer the "by hand" method. Unless it's a back glass of a car, I can cut a door glass by hand quicker (and more accurately) then it takes to load the film into the cutter, find your vehicle, cut it, weed it, etc. I also do not put a knife onto the glass EVER. A wax pencil is a tinters best friend.
To the OP...there's nothing worse than taking your pride and joy to a business and having something like this happen. I feel for you....and hope that they make it right.
- Tint Slayer and TintDude
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Advice - is this tinting job acceptable?
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
I've done my share of mobile tinting. It is up to the installer to set expectations BEFORE the job is agreed on. There is no way in hell I'd even consider tinting outside. My last mobile job was a grand new Demon 170 at a local dealership. It was brought into a side showroom, out of the elements, away from customers, opening doors, etc. The final result was no different than in our shop. Back to the OP...that install is extremely poor but without knowing the environment it was in, one can only speculate.