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Tint Slayer

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Posts posted by Tint Slayer

  1. 1 hour ago, Diablo's Tint said:

    Ok, I'll play devils advocate, Everyone is assuming the shop did and said what was said based on one side of the story. No pics, no real info. Just empty threats and pictures that nobody can see. What harm could possible happen by posting the pictures? 

     

    1 hour ago, Roach said:

    You are absolutely correct.  We are just hearing one side of the story.  

     

     

     

    that was my point, we don't know what the rest of his car looked like, and in the end the customer got what he wanted.

    While there may be nasty business people, there are customers who will try turn a spec into a free tint.

  2. Although the installer was a dick, he refunded the total cost which was more than the repair and none of us know how many scratches were on what year car that we never saw, who knows if this customer was wrong or right without pics? 

    I think the customer handled it right. The business owner, although unnecessarily nasty, obviously doesn't think he did it but still satisfied the customers wishes and took a loss to do it.

    I think it's worthy of no review, good or bad. My 2 cents on it

  3. 1 hour ago, no ma'am said:

    After break in I like em better than the regular yellow turbos, they conform better on a curve for me. Was looking more for insight than anything, either way I still card my sides down.

    I'd always been using the regular yellow turbo on the sides, but the regular green i got one day and have been liking it, it's somewhere between the black and the yellow in firmness. If you like the Fusion yellow turbo, you may also like their green for cleaning, it seems slightly firmer than the regular green. I use the blue little foot when running down the sides, but ask me again after i order tools, could totally change lol.

     

  4. 10 hours ago, no ma'am said:

    Brand new fusion wil irritate me a bit cleaning a door, after a couple days though they work well. I'm a 5 in yellow turbo guy for clean and first pass on doors. It's too tacky new to swipe my sides down so I use a blue tri edge x or my cut down orange/yellow lidco. :twocents what's your beef with em :dunno 

    You say you can't use the irritating Fusion yellow turbo for a few days and have to use other tools to compensate for it's shortcoming then ask me what's my beef?

    Not trying to make people stop using their squeegee blades, just not my brand of squeegee. I'm sure people love them, i don't. 

    Seemed like @pbalentine was not having good luck with fusion squeegees, i pointed out my issues with them to him, it was more of a reply than a beef.

  5. 1 hour ago, pbalentine said:

    Lots of contamination spread out be could dust coming from the interior if not the water. I tried the orange, clear, and pink on rollups. Clear was descent but im back using the unger.

     

    I've never had luck with any Fusion squeegees, i wasted too much money trying them out and none of their squeegees were good for me, i don't get what's so great about them.

    I've had good luck with the Green turbo for cleaning, and it's not the Fusion version of the green turbo.

    If i'm not using the Green turbo i'll use the black Unger like you said. 

  6. 7 hours ago, TQtinting said:

    Howdy y’all! :hat  It has been quite a while since I’ve posted hope everyone is doing good! 

     

    Question: will be tinting a Chrysler 300 Saturday with the known lower matrix line. Do you guys typically torch this area from the outside and get it to stick the best you can and deal with best results possible or do something else to help it out? I’m a Dotrix guy but I don’t believe reducing visibility would be real awesome for my customer :eye

     

    I have torched matrix areas before and it turned out OK at best. Unless if I’m just not doing it enough. 

     

    Can you elaborate on what you do when you torch the matrix? Just curious

     

  7. 28 minutes ago, pbalentine said:

    First lose the h pattern.  Its not needed, just do a line across the middle. Also, sometimes you wanna move the line up or down to lessen film to shrink in that area. Stick with the glove and use soap to dry shrink. 

     

    For the corners, shrink exactly toward factory edge.

    Agree with above

    i heat a large area and first try to shrink it all as flat as possible by pulling the film and also spreading my fingers wide thru the fingers on the film while i heat making them smaller and flatter until all the film is a little bumpy but shaped to the glass but not totally flat yet. Then i spray water under the film and flatten it out then wet shrink it with a gold hard card and make it flat. (Wet shrink is shrinking with the water under it, some people regardless of whether they shrink with powder, dryer sheets, soap, etc, will still do a final wet shrink before install so they can see any potential imperfections or little fingers at the edges, if it lays flat and wet on the outside it will on the inside, and you can also do your final cuts for anything in the way like defroster contacts, etc).

    Also, when people first start shrinking some focus on short robotic straight up and down strokes and just looking at the film while they shrink, after a while you get a little more artistic and focus on the shape of the glass and adjust your strokes and sweeping motions to conform to the shape of the glass. And take your time, my advice is never geared towards the 30 min full tint job, slow and steady wins the race.

     

  8. Been out of the FB groups for a bit. Seems like if you make a high quality video people think you're a guru.

    Have an opinion of your own in reply to a question in the groups? Hahahaha

    Have a technique you've used for decades and mention it? Hahahaha

    Any idiot can start a group and they'll get followers. In the end the trolls always take over and destroy the groups.

    That aside i've lost count of how many of my friends have split up in their personal life over something FB related. It's more like anti-social media.

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