Dano

I've ran on gennys. I would look for a puresine 4500w or bigger and put a muffler and insulated box if you dont want to drag it out everytime. For solar you would need mabey a pair of battleborn 100ah, 4000w magnasine inverter/charger (to add shore power when available) and at least 1000w of pannels to keep it topped off. Running on 24v is way more efficient. Used tesla battery? Wrecked Prius hybrid would give you enough to run an ac and lights.

Works like a charm. Got a nice acrylic and glass revolving display from lexen. Four sides, Clear 30 hp 30 ceramic 70 ceramic They also have a nice unger style handle tool without hardware to strip.

For all the brain damage I would just close and offer everyone who calls 15% off if they book and pre pay on yhe spot. Otherwise cameras and weight would be my best option. Eons ago I worked for a guy who would drop off a box and say 'I need $---.xx flat no matter how you do it. Keep the overage, pay for the loss'.

Yes, all of the above.

You have to get some skin in the game. Get a roll of film and practice what you've observed. Offer to go in on your own time and risk your own materials in exchange for a few hours of direct instruction. You may be eager to learn, however it's unreasonable to ask the owner to stop working in order to watch his film fill up a waste basket. Someone, somewhere has to have a crappy honda or a shop truck that you can work on. Taking a class might give you some knowledge but only practice will give you quality. If the owner is slaying cars, he likely wouldn't want to slow down to carry you to the goal line or redo your work. When I was an apprentice eons ago I started by installing 1/4glass after I had the car prepped and the invoice written, then heat shrinking rears. I also practiced on any car I could get my hands on in my spare time. The learning curve got much shorter when it was at my own expense.

Well that's sporty. Not impressed with the steering wheel, too much form over function.

Ouch...I would hire a helper and train him on rears only right away. Eff tempting fate durring recovery.

I avoid residential at all cost for all of the above reasons, plus unruly kids/animals, furniture in the way, crappy glass, fixtures like blinds and crappy plastics that are dry rotted with stripped hardware....commercial only unless I'm getting above and beyond top dollar.

R&R clear mask on the hood yesterday/ today. Had a tasty rock chip that got filled .

I would stay away from the off brands unless you just want a bigger learning curve and compatibility issues.

I would recommend a roland or an older graphtech (fc7000, fc 8000, fc8600) if you can find one. The run forever. These are compatible with CorelDraw and Adobe for basic art. Just about all the film suppliers have a cutting program for car patterns. Get a 60" so you can pass thru wrap film and PPF.

No idea. Aside from specific brands I would at minimum find a shop with good reviews and ask to see some of their completed work. Regardless of what they use, standing behind the installation is what counts.

The real question is what are they currently doing to lobby for our industry? If someone from there would come here and explain it to us I would be interested to hear what they have to say. An AMA thread might help drive more interest.

I've tinted exactly two doors this week. Sounds pretty lazy...until I tell y'all I also disassembled and wrapped this single handedly. The yellow tape at the bottom of the doors is so the customer can damage the vinyl on the sills themselves.

Put some soap on those seals to stop some of the handling creases. For small fingers I'll wrap a towel around a hard card and jam it in and leave it until the glue tacks.

You still need to cut it, either before or after shrinking. To get an accurate cut it's better to have the film laying flat on the glass in final position. If you're running your film through a plotter first I wouldn't peel away the excess until after the shrink otherwise the edge might furl and burn. Then you may be left with a short pattern.

Use a liner and a marker to draw a pattern, lay your pattern over your film on a peel board/glass. Cut and install. Shrink it if you have to. I use less soap and streach the slack out of it.

Well that was easy, 18% ceramic.

^^love doing those. Ez pull sweeps and rubber seals. Just finished this one. 15" HFM/HL/DC&E/Upper bumper covers..ceramic front doors.

After a few rounds of practice you might be the new local guy if there's a need in your area.

Rather than stripping it you might try using a diabetic needle to relieve it. Straight in at the edge of the bubble, thumb nail or squeegee to force pressure, then pull the needle straight out. I would save the extra materials to do another set unless it really bothers you.

If that's your first diy, not too bad. The top circle looks like you left too much moisture behind. The bottom circle looks like a speck of debris. To get a diy kit to look professional you'll usually do it twice or more and will cost as much as having it done retail. The benefits of diy is the satisfaction of your own craft work and then knowing why a pro charges what they do.

I was looking for one of those over the summer to buzz around local and couldn't find one in decent shape. Bought a '69 baja bug instead, pulling the motor this weekend to freshen it up.

A little more info please. What product and percentage was installed? What type of vehicle was it installed on? Different vehicles will have different factory specs for glass which will determine final vlt.

TrackHawk first thing this morning...sporty. They were even nice enough to leave the red key with it.