Dano

I wish I had that kind of luck. I've got an FC8600-160 set up just for heavier materials (wrap/ppf) and aFC800-130 just for tint to make life easier.

Thrillbilly hotrod today!

The entire door could have been replaced at a bodyshop and repainted.

Did one of those today as well. 18" HFM- Bumper- Headlights- Door thresholds- 70% Ceramic fronts. Those interiors are gauty af.

The M in the blade designation is for higher density, metallized/ceramic films

I use a 25° blade for tint and either a 45° or 60° for clear mask and vinyl. Switching between tint and any other material is hell on the cutting strip and causes plenty of waste from getting the blade retuned for the thinner material. Cleancut makes the highest quality blades from my experience. I've got a few that I've had for 5+ years. I usually only have to replace them after I drop them and shatter the tip. Having a second machine will save alot of wasted materials and frustration. I had a comment about this here recently.

If I had to purchase another one today I would likely look for a used fc-8000 or 8600. Those units are pretty dang reliable. I'm a little partial to to fc's but have had rolands in the past, also very reliable. Outside of those two brands I wouldn't even bother. I would only buy new if I needed to burn cash on a balance sheet.

The manufacturer doesn't necessarily cater to the tint market. We make up a tiny fraction of their overall sales. There have been many post about this here over the years. When i figured out the quality wasn't the same I started using a grease pencil to mark my edges. I would hang on to those blades for when you absolutely need to make a cut on open glass.

Minor fingers are most likely from over streach. I would also get off the apc and let 70%iso be the last thing to touch the surface before you install.

My best guess is the language setting. HPPL vs HPGL if you can toggle between. My best advice is to have two plotters. Switching between vinyl/ppf and tint is hard on the cutting strip and usually will waste more film than you would like getting the blade retuned. I learned that lesson years ago and likely saved enough film to pay for the second machine, possibly lowered my blood pressure a little in the process.

Just like a cross threaded 🔩, they only come off one way. Waivers up front.

My guess would be... 1. Over stretch at the edges 2. Not prepping with straight alcohol 3. Wax or ceramic coating on the surface My prep work usually starts with a clay ball on the surface and pure alcohol before an install, followed by a pure water flush on the edges before trimming the excess film. A light bit of heat 20min later.

If your cutter works great, what program have you been using? Have you tried changing the command language? Are you using a bridge program between your art program to the cutter interface? Cutters can be finicky getting the initial set up in order. Most shops are using a Roland or Graphtech for the reasons you describe, and even then they may take some time to work out the bugs, especially if you're switching between an art program to a tint program due to the language interface auto changing.

Correct. I usually end up with the clear food service hose since they are on the shelf at HD. The dark hose would be nice to prevent slime from sunlight.

I like a longer line to reach both sides of the vehicle. Also it lays flat on the ground and doesn't snap back every time it leaves my hand. The external filter is a precautionary back up to keep crap out of the line. Flushing the line and handle is a chore I'd rather avoid. Even with distilled water, the air line/compressor used to pressurise the tank is likely not contaminate free.

I like a keg for full hoods, flat glass and spraying dust out of the air. Also good for mobile work where the water/air quality is questionable. Mine sit most of the time as well, but I wouldn't be without 'em. I usually replace the slinky hose with 30' of food grade bar service line and an external filter to monitor water quality.

Let them spend another 50bux in fuel and lost time driving on over there, then let them do it again when they have a warranty issue.

If the film is anything except clear, he's correct.

The el-cheapo olfa in the middle is usually my blade of choice. I use the fatty on the left when my hands are sore or if I'm running heavy vinyl production. The red dot on the right I use for getting good precision cuts on ppf. The slight position change can make a big difference. Same with the handle squeegees.

I've switched out to NT stainless for that very reason. I use the carbon blades for clear mask and wrap film only these days. I try not to use them on my peel boards and never on the cars. They will absolutely carve up the glass. Over gripping anything in this business can cause issues. I change tools and hand positions constantly to minimize strain.

Keep a towel over the door switches as well. Seen a bunch of em go south.

A soak rope will help. Also pull the inside wheel trims and stuff some towels over the power boxes on anything euro or electric. I pull the a-pillar covers on windshields and find stuff in there as well, teslas particularly.

That's disappointing. If I sold that job and it came back I would satisfy the customer. If one came back, you know there's a few more that didn't and should have. For the one customer that is really bothered by something minor I correct it and charge him more next time to set the price with his expectations and retain him as a client. Those people want and will pay for consistency if you can deliver.

.8%....really? Ask them when their meter was last certified, how many times its been dropped in the shop or had a fresh battery. I'll bet the dealer is shaking his head at the stupidity, however I think they should replace it to spec to show good faith, and the inspection people should bugger off.