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Dano

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Everything posted by Dano

  1. I'll offer that as proof that good plastic applicators are not a dime a dozen
  2. I used it years ago when I was in south Fla. The product was decent but I eventually switched when I relocated out west. I don't recall ever having any issues back then. At the time it was comparable to the rest of the majors.
  3. I would go with the shop that seems the most professional, with a good reputation. Try to get a referral from someone you know and take a look at the installs on their lot. Price alone won't paint the whole picture.
  4. That's as good as those cars ever came out, nice work!
  5. I've been on the HP and Ceramic exclusively for the last few years. I used to keep it as a brand option while carrying the majors, which had wider recognition. For my customers today, the only brand I'm pushing is myself. The Global products seem to have a tougher scratch coating, more silicone in the release liner and aren't pulled tincil tight during manufacturing so it shrinks like butter and doesn't curl anywhere near as much when handling. Get a light box on your counter and the brand discussions mostly stop. When you can demonstrate performance all they want to know is how soon they can schedule.
  6. I just ball park em according to the driver, driver's seat and wheel position. I pull from a 12" roll, cut an ark and install. Almost never do I pre cut a pattern unless I've just laid the whole windshield and already have a liner handy. The 12" roll will sometimes cover some rear truck windows and keeps me from having a pile of visor pieces laying around. FWIW I pull most of my rear windows from a 30".
  7. I used to make an incision along the blade on the inside and slowly open it up to fit. Steel wool, alcohol, rince and try to lay that area a little dryer so as not to stir up any contamination. Did the old Camaros the same way.
  8. The usual issue(s) are, the phone is ringing, the wife is pissed, materials delayed the clock is ticking and some jackwagon just walked in the front door to waste your time talking about his crappy used 3series....all while you're trying to turn out good work on nice car...did I mention that it's also hot as hell outside? Yeah, some days are definitely like that.
  9. I remember doing a ton of mini trucks back in the day. I also remember being able to rope out the rear window after locking the keys in a few of them...ahh the 90s
  10. Yea, some days are like that. Agree on not sacrificing scheduled production.
  11. I would reschedule it for an off day when I could figure it out without any pressure, or pay another installer to lay it so I could see what I'm missing. Either way I would go upside down. If I get it right I'll know what it's worth and be known as the guy that can do it.
  12. You can. Dry out and collect the water off the top edge first. It's alot easier if you have the bottom door seal pulled out so you don't crunch up the pattern while getting the water out of the bottom of the film. It gives you a few minutes to let the top tack down before shaving.The top corners are a bit tricky the first few times. I would recommend practicing on a frameless window first and beware of the top film edge. It's real easy to get a nasty film cut running you fingers down the edge. The good news is you only have to learn that lesson once...or twice depending on your learning curve. I seem to relearn that lesson about once a year...
  13. A shaved edge almost never peels. I've used razor blades, small cheap files, emory boards and wet sand paper to do it according to what I might have on hand at the moment.
  14. @Roach...those old storefronts are great. Everytime I do one of those I usually book a few referrals from folks standing around watching. @Ryan1...Good Job! The mini is an excellent training device. Keep at it, we need some new blood in this industry that is tuned in to the custom fit.
  15. Blast from the past today, '06 SS Trailblazer for a local hotrod shop. Only 60k mi o the clock. Added some Avery rugged/onyx blk on the rockers to hide a few rock chips.
  16. Agree. If a customer wants and paid for the highest quality film, they are right to expect the highest quality install which the installer should be rewarded for. If you have a trouble free installer, that alone is worth rewarding or you'll soon find that there is a new shop in your neighborhood, which will leave you picking through the dustbin of bad habits and unreliable techs for the next 18months. Less margin = less headache = less resentment = greater stability, imho.
  17. I called yesterday to inquire and it was not released for the US market.
  18. I recently turned down a dealership that wanted to preload a full lot for the same lingering questions. When I said that I'll do it if they would accept the liability that was the end of the conversation.
  19. Their ceramic is already a solid product. If this is the next level I'm going to get a roll on the way just to find out for myself. Anyone who sees the ceramic in the light box is usually converted on the spot. This might be a nice addition for the "I need the absolute best, price be damned" crowd.
  20. I've used about every top tier film under the sun in the last 26 years. I've also seen just about all of them rise and fall from time to time with various quality and install issues. With that being said, the Global HP and Ceramic have been my favorite to date. Less static when peeling the liner, much less curling when installing. Excellent scratch coating. The color seems to stay more stable than alot of other films I've used in the past, including all the majors. Their PPF is also pretty solid as well.
  21. Yep, used bmw, red denali halfton with chrome, ten year old camaros...those owners always....
  22. I would probably open the switch af far as I felt comfortable and dry it out with some keyboard cleaner if the voltage was good.
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