Dano

Wet shrinking has advantages but it also has limitations. I'd learn a good dry shrink technique, then follow up with a wet check.
You can get a lot more shrink into a piece doing it dry with a lot less stress on the film.

Sucks that you got screwed. Sorry to hear that.   But that is what we all kinda figured.  

I created an account just to respond here. I'm not a "tinter" or whatever yall may call yourselves but I came across this product and thought that it looked pretty cool and something I could do myself. I ordered from Lazeway and spent like $150 for two packages. The product is from China although they claim all this America stuff on the website. All i received was two simple rolls of tint, nothing special. I was totally scammed and now I'm looking all over the internet for anyone talking about this product to let them know. 
 
Dont buy from them. 

or "bust out another thousand"
 

Best tip would be, “Sorry, no boats”.

The answer is to not heat that area too much so that you leave some slack in the film for when you get it to the inside.
 
Also cut your pattern a little large so that you can trim a thread off the edges after shrinking to not have a furled edge.
 
After you do a few of those you'll figure out how much to leave/trim to not have any light gaps. Also I'll leave a hardcard wrapped in a microfiber in the bottom overnight to collect water and keep pressure on the film while it dries.
 
Sometimes you can take the top rail off the glass if the jackwagon boat builder didn't put too much pressure on the glass package when it was installed. If you pull the rail off of a tight package it's a pita to get back on, looking like it could crack the whole time. 
 
Congrats on getting it done. I've seen plenty that couldn't, which is why I price them like I do. 

I start those at $750 and go up. 
 
Best advice is no cutting on the glass and white scrubbie only, no cleaning blades. That glass is super soft. You may want to use a film liner to make a template to cut your patterns. 

Thx everyone for the tips  the install went fine, however i did run into a new problem on the main curve  of the glass from thr outside the tint would lay flat on the big curve but when applying it seemed like there was too much tension and it would not stay down i ended up heating it up and flattening down but some of that area got overheated and warped a little, if you know how to tackle this problem please help me thank you!

Amazon

then Dano was correct about trying to polish it out with the proper glass polish.  Much care and experience is needed for this type of repair.  

If it is on the outside of the window you should try a bit of Autosol metal polish on a rag to rub it off.
Autosol is one of the only polishes that will take stains, rust, rub marks and water spots off glass without even telling us on the package how good it is!
For anyone who hasn't tried Autosol, do yourself a favor and get some from your local auto shop next time you're there.
You will thank me later
I tell people that if Autosol can't clean up their window then they're outta luck.

Yep, get used to it because it never ends.  You can reduce frustration with tinting, but you can’t eliminate it.  

We've seen it on new vehicles, polishing it should remove it. Definitely not the shops fault.

Any impact from polishing, if the mar responds to polishing, would result in no or little visible trace.
 
Anyone experienced in buffing glass will likely say, no guarantees; unless they've experienced the same mar on glass.

I use(d) these that are readily available through grocery stores; on installs that should not have a blade running across their surface.
 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Scotch-Brite-3PK-Dobie-Cleaning-Pad/580762256?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=101033794&gclsrc=aw.ds&&adid=22222222227580762256_101033794_160178497084_20981201920&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=689850595863&wl4=pla-2274697737319&wl5=9008682&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=255470249&wl11=online&wl12=580762256_101033794&veh=sem&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIyo335LbOhQMVo0tHAR1HpQC8EAQYASABEgKydfD_BwE
 
Need to know whether the boat has glass or does it have plexiglass (acrylic) or Lexan (poly-carbonate). Glass is not worrisome, the other two are.
 
Plexi will blister from out-gassing in no time at all, whereby, Poly-carbonate is a crap shoot as to when and how serious, if any, blistering of film occurs.
 
Both Plexi and Ploy may also be difficult to remove, if the need arises down the road mainly getting the adhesive of without damaging the surface.
 
Both should not be warranted given the aforementioned potentials and these conditions should be discussed with the owner.

Boats, in my opinion, are on another level compared to auto and residential. They are dirty, the glass is at weird angles, usually there are sliding windows that are a real pain in the butt. Cramped conditions, lots of walking etc.
 
They aren't fun.
 
That boat looks like it just has a windshield, so that's good. Maybe wont be such a pain.
 

Looks like some of them have curved glass.
 

 
 

That looks like a mar on the surface, hard to see until the tint is installed due to adding contrast. Not likely that the installer is at fault. You might be able to polish some of that out. Use a professional glass polishing compound and maybe ask a car detailer to do it.

I wish it was a 2dr hatch but it’s still cool.  New Integra   

^^^ great list of good habits.
 
If your working on cars with rubber gaskets, roll down the windows first and spray them with SprayAway glass cleaner. Use a triangle card of some kind wrapped with a microfiber towel to scrub the dirt out and give it a couple squirts of water to flush it. Use the towel and triangle again when you're prepping the glass.
 
Don't forget to scrub the top edge of the glass.

^^^ great list of good habits.
 
If your working on cars with rubber gaskets, roll down the windows first and spray them with SprayAway glass cleaner. Use a triangle card of some kind wrapped with a microfiber towel to scrub the dirt out and give it a couple squirts of water to flush it. Use the towel and triangle again when you're prepping the glass.
 
Don't forget to scrub the top edge of the glass.

The first picture appears to be similar to a 25%. Front of house?
 
The second picture with 2 shades pulled down should get 25%, especially if facing West.
 
The third picture should get 45%. The compromise is lesser privacy, while providing greater incoming light (already shaded from patio overhead).
 
Small samples provided by the dealer don't give you a good sense of what the film will look like once installed. There is too much light streaming in around the sample (when taped to the glass), making the film look darker than what it will look like installed.
 
The best and most accurate way to see what it will look like, viewing out, is to use the sample as quasi-sunglasses by wrapping it around your face and eyes (to the point of no light leaking in). Now, look toward the window(s). Viola`, there's your tinted view.
 
As to the tax benefit, do check with a pro tax person just in case they no longer have that program. I've been retired for almost a decade now.

A simple google ask tells you it residential installs of film are not taxable; labor and material. If they are collecting tax, they're in for a world of hurt, if discovered.

There's also this: For solar films, the tax advantages are even greater. The US Department of Energy allows you to claim up to 30% of the cost, including installation fees.
 
You may want to ask your tax prep person about this.
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My choice of the three films for the home would be Madico. Why? They've had a solid product for as long as my career goes back. They are also one of the founders of the window film industry (mid to late 50's last century, along with 3M and LLumar), whereby the other two came along years later; SolarGard then Suntek, respectively.

I used to sell SolarGard and got away from them when they had a rash of failures in the late 80's, moving to LLumar/Vista.
 
Suntek is owned by Eastman Chemical, who also owns many other brands and is known for producing components other brands will buy and use. Suntek was bought by Eastman about ten years ago to work as an entry level product (lower cost product) in comparison to their LLumar, Vista, Huper Optiks, V-kool brands for residential/commercial glass.
 
Eastman Chem is the fifth generation owner of the film plant in Henry Co. Virginia.

Like with most things- Pick your favorite most experienced installer and go with his/her recommendation. An excellent installer is more important than splitting hairs over specific film 👍 However, in the same breath, I will tell you I am only familiar with one of those films (so I am not 100% sure if the three are equal enough for that analogy), the SunTek SYDS. We used SunTek for nearly a decade. I liked the SYDS film a lot, used it often, never had a single complaint or failure to this day. I personally have not one bad word to say about SYDS.