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Anyone still seam the B/G?


Guest MidcoastMW

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Guest MidcoastMW
I had to seam an 06 corvette last week looked real clean.

[*]334680

How many strips? Cut on inside, or outside?

[*]334681

you are kidding right?

[*]334696

Nope. Im asking.

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two ,inside seam

[*]334699

Take a current Impreza sedan, Legacy wagon or Forester and find out just how much a 2 piece with heat shrinking on both pieces alters the complexity of the install. :rollin

The difference is chalk and cheese.

All external cutting including the important seam.

Devil

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How do computer cut installers handle seams, if ever done.

Also, if the window is extremely curvy how does the computer cut film allow an exact cut that can also be trimmed to remove the curled/fried outter edge?

Not dissing just never used a pre-cut pattern.

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Guest MidcoastMW
How do computer cut installers handle seams, if ever done.

Also, if the window is extremely curvy how does the computer cut film allow an exact cut that can also be trimmed to remove the curled/fried outter edge?

Not dissing just never used a pre-cut pattern.

[*]334718

I belive the pre-cut packages are one peice for the back glass. Its up to you if you want to seam it, or shrink it. Im guessing most would shrink, because I doubt they are cut oversize enough to allow for a small overlap required for a good seam.

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Guest MidcoastMW
two ,inside seam

[*]334699

Take a current Impreza sedan, Legacy wagon or Forester and find out just how much a 2 piece with heat shrinking on both pieces alters the complexity of the install. :rollin

The difference is chalk and cheese.

All external cutting including the important seam.

Devil

[*]334705

yep, I would also assume that a seamed back glass would outlast a shrunk one peice......pending it was on a car with a curvey back glass. For example, that late 90's Talon that I just did the other day...I tried the back glass in one shrunk peice, and you have to distort the film SO MUCH to get it to take the contours. Im thinkin to myself, this cant be good for the longevity of the film! lol, I scrapped it and shrunk a 2 peice seam, and it's less harsh on the construction of the film.

I could be way wrong...Im new at tinting, but this is just stuff I noticed.

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The plastic "toy" blades have limited use, seaming is not one of them.

[*]334682

:evileye They're limited elsewhere, too! Use them to scrape old glue and you'll spend more time taking glue off the blade to keep the leading edge clean and worthy than taking glue off the glass.

How do computer cut installers handle seams, if ever done.

Also, if the window is extremely curvy how does the computer cut film allow an exact cut that can also be trimmed to remove the curled/fried outer edge?

Not dissing just never used a pre-cut pattern.

[*]334718

How the pattern fits after heat forming? A not-so-well guarded secret by those inputing patterns to these systems.

On precut patterns, you take your pattern to the peel board and cut a 1-2 inch border around the plotter cut and then heat form. This bit of extra can then be weeded away after the heat form process is complete.

Not recommended for newbies, rookies or those serious back glass curves... you heat crimp in the pattern area and it's shiits for that piece. I always recommend using from the roll for back glass and plotter cut for sides in the instances stated above.

As to 2-piece plotter cut? The pattern must already be in the software program with one-piece or two-piece selection for the user. Plotter cut 2-piece will include the extra needed to seam.

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How do computer cut installers handle seams, if ever done.

Also, if the window is extremely curvy how does the computer cut film allow an exact cut that can also be trimmed to remove the curled/fried outter edge?

Not dissing just never used a pre-cut pattern.

[*]334718

We use a plotter for the sides only -and handcut all back glass for that reason!

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