2 door Cobalt installers. Step inside.

October 5, 2011

Did a 2 door cobalt yesterday for the first time. Used EFW True black in 20% all around, and I used the single anchor across the center a little higher than the middle. Left the top and bottom long to do the pull method, and I also used Elmers clear school glue on the dots for the first time. I think every thing came out decent except for a few small fingers at the bottom of the glass that wouldn't go away, I think I shrank the tint to it's max and it wasn't shrinking anymore. Also on the pass side, after I cut the nub for the defroster a horizontal finger appeared. This one would lay down but kept coming back. And with the glue... I installed film like normal, hard carded the dots, then pulled film back down and ran a bead of glue across the bottom and squeegee'ed up to the top but not all the way out til the end, but it seemed like the glue would keep running back down. I didn't want to hard card it to hard and push all the glue out. I kept at it and I think it came out pretty good after it dried. But any additional advice would be helpful.

Any idea's on what I can do for the next time so the finger's don't happen again? Different way's to push the film around so I don't max out the shrinking of the tint. Can I pull the corners down and sideways or will it only work pulling straight down. Do I need to shrink from the middle out to the side's, then down the side to the bottom pushing more tint to the middle? I have another 2 door cobalt this weekend I'm doing, and depending on how this one comes out I wanna redo the first one.

Sorry for the terrible glare on the glass. But in these pictures you can see the 2-3 fingers across the bottom on the driver side, and the finger in the middle of the defroster nub.

blade · October 5, 2011

just hit it with some heat on the outside and push it down.

October 5, 2011

just hit it with some heat on the outside and push it down.

I did that multiple times and they weren't moving. I hard card, blue max and the stroke doctor. Nothing was keeping them down.

The ///Man · October 5, 2011

just hit it with some heat on the outside and push it down.

I did that multiple times and they weren't moving. I hard card, blue max and the stroke doctor. Nothing was keeping them down.

Get a different film. I consider myself a proficient shrinker and I had the exact same problem with the Cobalt and TB.

pbalentine · October 5, 2011

Are you using sliptack with the TB? If not, this will get rid of the isssue.

You said you may have ran outa of film to shrink at the bottom. For bgs with alot of curve, I always have the film overlap the matrix by altleast an inch. So if i get a small crease, it won't be a problem after final trim. You could of also created the fingers if you squeegeed too much of the bottom portion straight down(vertically).

Also, if those rear headrest are in your way, they come out with 2 bolts a piece(10mm i think).

October 5, 2011

Are you using sliptack with the TB? If not, this will get rid of the isssue.
You said you may have ran outa of film to shrink at the bottom. For bgs with alot of curve, I always have the film overlap the matrix by altleast an inch. So if i get a small crease, it won't be a problem after final trim. You could of also created the fingers if you squeegeed too much of the bottom portion straight down(vertically).

Also, if those rear headrest are in your way, they come out with 2 bolts a piece(10mm i think).

2 13MM bolts. Took those out. And the fingers were there before the install. Just not as bad. I figured I could lay them down once inside. And I had the film overlapping the matrix bug an inch or more. I don't use sliptac, just a few drops of JJ in some water.

October 5, 2011

that window you want to anchor a little lower than normal, since the bottom is where all the shrink is at. I've done a bunch of them with TB with no problems. TB is a forgiving film in that you can shrink it a little bit, go somewhere else, shrink a little more, wait, a little more, etc. You have to "coax" the film down, not go for it all at once. also, don't try and card/push it down with your fingers until the very end just let the film flow. The curve on that window will allow the film to pull itself down, so you won't crease it when you finally think its shrunk enough to push it down.

also try leaving the film 2-3" long and intentionally burn the edge when you're almost done shrinking as it will help tighten up the film on the bottom so when you finish shrinking the last little bit the tension will pull the film down.

Or, do it the "easy" way since you're gluing the dots anyways and two piece it with a seam where the dots start, the glue will hide the slight bump where it overlaps.

as for the side finger, you need to anchor the film up and down about 6" on each side so 12" total up and down the way it has the wicked side curve or else the film wants to pull back and finger like you experienced.

In a couple days when the film and adhesive is completely dry you may be able to get those fingers down a little better, but chances are they're big enough that it'll just crease.

Slick · October 5, 2011

The bottom is where the shrink is at??? Scotty....I have been agreeing with you more than usual lately....but I have to disagree with you on this one. I anchor it just above the defroster tabs, and the top corners are where all the stress is at....but at the same time, I have never had a problem with these cars....although my competition refuses to touch them. I sand and glue the dots...wish I would have gotten a pic of the one that left yesterday....the dots came out perfect....

October 6, 2011

#1 wet check film when done dry shrinking to insure proper shrink

#2 use sliptak solution

#3 you arent heating it enough ... heat it till it starts to grow bigger wait 10 seconds then push it down and hold it

October 6, 2011

This window looks harder than it is.Dry shrink Mdog style,baby powder or if want risk using dryer sheets.Llumar ATR tint sticks on the dots just fine-no glue needed.