Jump to content

What's the best option for cutting this?


Recommended Posts

I think a metal ruler from lowes or home depot would suffice. I put duck tape on the back of mine. Grabs pretty good and doesn't slide on a dry surface. Rubber or foam would be that much better.

 

Another thing that may help if you cut it on the window would be a cheat stick for each pattern you are trying to do. Which is just a stick/dowel rod you mark or notch ahead of time with all your measurements, then you can just set the stick on the bottom frame and transfer marks to your film on each side. Will be consistent and level and cut down time and hassle on measuring each gap. :thumb

 

 

I usually make my level the cheat stick or use water soluble markers directly on my measuring tape. If I'm going in and out of 2 projects or 2 or more designs at one site will use different colours on the tape for each design.

 

 

31iF7q2NkBL.jpgLumocolor-PW8.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 26
  • Created
  • Last Reply

 

If what you have shown in the photos is the whole project I'd go hand cut.

You should have your 48" level set up with glass magnets so it won't slide.

You should easily be able to clean, install then mark cuts with watersoluble marker or similar then hand cut any of those in 15-20 mins to half hour tops per pane.

 

The film looks like Dusted or etchmark

Any pics of the 48" level setup you have? Thanks for the information.

 

 

 

Sorry no pics.

Your mileage may vary.

Batteries not included.

It depends what level you are using what variation of a "glass magnet" will work for you.

 

I've used those inch wide white erasers

Lengths of wooden dowel inside rubber tubes siliconed beside the levels bubble vial box

1/4" thick  rubber Glass stops and lengths of old squeegee blades VHB taped between the layers is the latest version and probably the easiest to aquire.

 

The big trick is to have the end result less than a blade thickness from the glass :thumb :thumb

 

Its fun Futzing with people with my glass magnets when I can push my level against the glass, let go and it stays in place for a while. So far the record is 20 seconds!!

Next trainee is gonna lose some Cash :lol :lol

 

Hey TD Do I have to post up Pics for a Tip o the week and / or a tool medal?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just as Fox and Thirty said , I hand cut most graphics, use a straight edge and make a "story pole" using a sharpie (you can clean it later with acetone or lacquer thinner) I use a wet erase marker and mark both sides of the panels or the size of my straight edge(72" being the longest) and usually have someone to hold one end while I hold the other. It goes pretty quick. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

 

If what you have shown in the photos is the whole project I'd go hand cut.

You should have your 48" level set up with glass magnets so it won't slide.

You should easily be able to clean, install then mark cuts with watersoluble marker or similar then hand cut any of those in 15-20 mins to half hour tops per pane.

 

The film looks like Dusted or etchmark

Any pics of the 48" level setup you have? Thanks for the information.

 

 

 

Sorry no pics.

Your mileage may vary.

Batteries not included.

It depends what level you are using what variation of a "glass magnet" will work for you.

 

I've used those inch wide white erasers

Lengths of wooden dowel inside rubber tubes siliconed beside the levels bubble vial box

1/4" thick  rubber Glass stops and lengths of old squeegee blades VHB taped between the layers is the latest version and probably the easiest to aquire.

 

The big trick is to have the end result less than a blade thickness from the glass :thumb :thumb

 

Its fun Futzing with people with my glass magnets when I can push my level against the glass, let go and it stays in place for a while. So far the record is 20 seconds!!

Next trainee is gonna lose some Cash :lol :lol

 

Hey TD Do I have to post up Pics for a Tip o the week and / or a tool medal?

 

 

Glass Magnet??? Pics would be real nice :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

bro, i think i would apply 1 sheet then make cuts. installing  1" strips is a pain to keep exact spacing, the only concern would be the ps adhesive getting tacky. using a strait edge and fine measuring is my suggestion.

That's what I do all the time

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


  •   Sponsored by
    ride wrap

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

    filmvinyldesigns

  • Activity Stream

    1. 1

      Olfa blades are not as sharp as they used to be

    2. 1

      Olfa blades are not as sharp as they used to be

    3. 3

      Help Needed! - Graphtec FC4100-75 - Software/Compatibility/Drivers/Communication/Blades/Setup

    4. 5

      Need some help

    5. 0

      Wtb Solar Gard Supreme NR 40

    6. 0

      Canadian Tinter Looking for work in US

    7. 3

      Help Needed! - Graphtec FC4100-75 - Software/Compatibility/Drivers/Communication/Blades/Setup

    8. 3

      Help Needed! - Graphtec FC4100-75 - Software/Compatibility/Drivers/Communication/Blades/Setup

    9. 3

      Help Needed! - Graphtec FC4100-75 - Software/Compatibility/Drivers/Communication/Blades/Setup

    10. 4

      At What VLT% does visibility start being impacted

×
×
  • Create New...