What's the best option for cutting this?

[WearTheFoxHat]

If what you have shown in the photos is the whole project I'd go hand cut.

You should have your 48" level set up with glass magnets so it won't slide.

You should easily be able to clean, install then mark cuts with watersoluble marker or similar then hand cut any of those in 15-20 mins to half hour tops per pane.

 

The film looks like Dusted or etchmark

[Thirtyfive]

Use a whiteboard marker and mark it out every half metre if you need it perfect. Either way would be consuming. Like fox said if that's all of it just hand cut it. If its more you should be okay either way, if the glass is only going to be that long in the frames and not one continual pattern....

One looonnnnnggggg design needs some careful attention as things aren't always level

[TomTint]

Just measure the layout and bring them to a sign shop. They may charge you 1-200.00 to cut , weed and transfer tape it. Then it will take you about 15 minutes to install. ..Work smarter not harder.

[Tintmaster08]

Just measure the layout and bring them to a sign shop. They may charge you 1-200.00 to cut , weed and transfer tape it. The it will take you about 15 minutes to install. ..Work smarter not harder.

x2

[MikeMN]

3 windows roughly 60" wide and 2 doors 36" wide. I have Suntek white matte if I'm going to hand cut. Decorative Films said they could print the stripes in one piece. Thoughts?

 

 

Bad advice on having a sign shop cut the job for you, seeing that you need to keep the cost down.

 

If you have a plotter use it, if not hand cut the film at the shop in your spare time, start with the largest piece and level it and hard card it and then start installing the upper bands using the same film cut to size as a spacer to get the clear reveal needed ( just make a few of them and pull them out and reuse them as you go) and then do the bottom pcs last, trim the beveled edges last and reinstall the door handles before you leave the job so the film will have time to set up. 

 

That is my short answer.

[Tint Eastwood]

I would install a big piece and then hand cut if it's just a few windows. Much like Tintguy and Fox said. 

[elementaltinting]

At the very least, get a quote or two from sign shops. Typically it only gets pricey when you ask them to cut a logo or design and you don't have the type of file/format they need, so they'll charge an "an artist fee" to recreate the image for $100+, then a production fee to cut and possibly weed the film for $25+.  If you give them the dimensions that first fee should be less expensive and it could be an easy install.  

 

Compare that to how long it would take you to hand cut it based on your own experience.  I would think the extra cost of having a shop cut it for you would be worth it but if you're quick and have a good hand for cutting you may go the other way. 

[TintJunkie]

You are really over thinking this.  Like Mike and others said, if you don't have a plotter or film handler (which if you are doing any sort of deco film you should at least have one of the two), and install as one sheet and cut with a 60" metal ruler.  You can use a "cheater" and place a thin strip of foam or rubber on the back side of your ruler to keep it from sliding easily...or use two people.

 

That sort of job for me would be a pocket filler full of benji's, and be out in no more than 2 hours.

[tntautoglass]

If what you have shown in the photos is the whole project I'd go hand cut.

You should have your 48" level set up with glass magnets so it won't slide.

You should easily be able to clean, install then mark cuts with watersoluble marker or similar then hand cut any of those in 15-20 mins to half hour tops per pane.

 

The film looks like Dusted or etchmark

Any pics of the 48" level setup you have? Thanks for the information.

[Tint Eastwood]

I think a metal ruler from lowes or home depot would suffice. I put duck tape on the back of mine. Grabs pretty good and doesn't slide on a dry surface. Rubber or foam would be that much better.

 

Another thing that may help if you cut it on the window would be a cheat stick for each pattern you are trying to do. Which is just a stick/dowel rod you mark or notch ahead of time with all your measurements, then you can just set the stick on the bottom frame and transfer marks to your film on each side. Will be consistent and level and cut down time and hassle on measuring each gap.