I keep getting dirt in my tint/help/ suggestions please
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Graphtec Plotter
I've had that happen. I've solved it a few different ways. Sometimes uninstalling/reinstalling the cut program. Sometimes by doing the same with the cutters driver. Other times just by restarting the computer and/or unplugging and restarting the cutter. Seems like it can happen without any obvious reason. I've had it decide to change tools and start pouncing the pattern after cutting the first half just fine. I've also had the driver forget how to output and had to reinstall a USB port that it was recognising for years. Those machines can be quirky and sometimes have to be set back up from scratch and will run fine again for years only to later flake out...and start running fine again. I would like to blame the motherboard or the driver most of the time for corrupting the file, which is why I usually start with the driver. Also it's good to let the motherboard warm up if you're running an older machine. If I run mine cold it will sometimes drop the file out of buffer. Now I just leave it on 24/7 to keep the board warm. If you do get a solid answer from Graphtech, please let us know what you found. -
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Llumar air 80 vs 3m Crystalline - dealer advised to go regular 3m ceramic over Crystalline
@Tintguy1980 pretty much covered the difference in the films. Since Ceramic films absorb the heat, the vehicle must be in motion to push the hot air away. No motion means more heat building up in the glass and radiating inward to you. Since Crystalline redirects heat away, the radiating inward heat is much less if you are in traffic or sitting still. As far as the shop, they either don't want to stock Crystalline since it is $$$$ per roll or do not want to install it since it takes more work and time. Also, not all 3M dealers can install Crystalline. If you check the dealer locator, if they do not have "Crystalline Preferred" listed, then this is most likely the case. With that being said, we absolutely love the Ceramic IR line, so you can't go wrong there.- 1
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Graphtec Plotter
I should reach out to graphtec about this issue, but I'm curious if anyone else has experienced the same problem with their plotter. My graphtec plotter can cut specific designs flawlessly without any problems with pressure or shape. Occasionally I experience an issue where I will plot a design consisting of two fronts or a rear windshield window, and the cut is flawless, but just before the plotter finishes, allowing me to remove the excess material from the machine. It reaches the end as if it will finish feeding it completely and then abruptly lowers the blade as if it still needs to cut the design, slicing right through the pattern it just created. Do you have any thoughts on why that occurs? -
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FOR SALE Jaguar V LX 40" plotter
Selling a like new Jaguar VLX 40" plotter. Works perfectly, we upgraded to another plotter and don't have space for this one. Only available for pickup, located in Orange County. If interested or you have any questions please contact us at 949-888-6581. Priced at $3,800 OBO. -
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Llumar air 80 vs 3m Crystalline - dealer advised to go regular 3m ceramic over Crystalline
Easy technical explanation of the difference between Crystalline and regular 'ceramic' labeled products, including 3Ms: Crystalline is designed to 'reflect' NIR (Near Infrared, the sun's energy we 'feel' first) as opposed to 'ceramic' products absorbing. Absorbing translates into feeling the sun's energy radiating off the window as your arm is rested next to it. Therefore, Crystalline is superior to ceramics. This is the pitch I would make to you as a buyer. Maybe the dealer you spoke with simply doesn't want to pay the price for a roll of the product. I've had Crystalline 40 on my front door glass for 8 yrs now and it shows zero sign of any degradation in color, performance and clarity. Crystalline would be better than AIR80 for the windshield as well.- 1
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Llumar air 80 vs 3m Crystalline - dealer advised to go regular 3m ceramic over Crystalline
I just got off the phone with a 3m dealer in Dallas and he strongly advised me to save my money and get their regular ceramic and not the 3M Crystalline. He said I'd never know the difference and acted like it was NOTHING more than a marketing strategy. So that's got me all confused. He could make more money off me, but I feel like he's being honest and I appreciate that. But, then I hear everywhere else how much better Crystalline is over other products. So, I'm still debating on Air 80 or Crystalline for the windshield and Llumar IRx or Formula 1 or 3m Crystalline for the other windows.. So much to consider! FYI, I generally like the best for a couple hundred more, BUT I do want there to be some improvement. -
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Beginner trying to learn, where I'm at...
Welcome to the forum! I would recommend Global non-cap ppf and get a second bottle with plain water only to flush the edges for better adhesion. If you're leaving water behind try using a different squeegee. I prefer a dark yellow turbo from Interwest. Instead of heating I think you should be streaching the film into place to pull the fingers out.- 1
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What did you tint today?
Y'all try not to get too excited, but this is the four cylinder Suzuki version of the Geo Metro with a whopping 1.3L. No ac or power steering but getting 45mpg on 13" rims.- 2
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Beginner trying to learn, where I'm at...
Hello, thanks for allowing me to join. I'm a retired auto technician/High School Automotive Instructor. Enjoyed working on cars all of my life. I have had and still have several nice cars (mostly Corvettes) and enjoy keepng them nice. I have a lift in my garage which helps with the install on lower areas of the vehicle. I have been tinkering with PPF film here and there on rock chip prone areas on my cars. I have been sucessful sometimes installing where it was acceptable to my liking, but never perfect. I have had to rip several off and start over. That doesn't bother me because I really want to master this. Education isn't free and if it means wasting film and time I understand. I have gotten over the fear of installing it on small areas (front of wheel well area on rear quarter of C8 Corvette) and shrinking it with heat gun to smooth out fingers but cannot do an insatll without getting any bubbles completely. Some installs the bubbles have dried over a couple of weeks and were acceptable for me. But other installs were not, and I had to start over. The solution I'm using is the typical 16oz distilled water and 2 or 3 drops of baby shampoo. The film is Ebay pre-cut kits. Can anyone shed any light as to what I'm doing wrong to minimize the bubbles? Is there a different solution I should be using? Is there a better film to start with that is easier to use for beginners? I'd appreciate any advice or tips I can get. Thanks in advance!
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