TintWizard

A pimped out "silver" devil

Agreed Yoda. That I think would be THE only way around the weight , but then you may as well just plug any heat gun you want to use into a small generator that could be used for so much more

To talk to much about it it you'll end up MIA

Need to make a "Tesla" powered heatgun ( I'm wondering how many will get that joke)

I'm a dual gun shrinker too. I'd get carpel tunnel just looking at those 2 guns together

Cool concept however My biggest concern would be weight . When your extended over a big back window, your extended arm will fatigue much quicker swirling around a heat gun. I would think it couldn't help but be heavy ?

I do this all year round in Canada. If we are talking Celcius, I make sure my windows are above 60 or more Celcius when tinting , extra passes with the Unger / blue max or orange crush combo. NO LIMPRISTING / no pansy pushing of the squeegee . Get that solution shiot out .

Never had a comeback in winter tinting . Lately it's been dropping below -30 C .

I've been doing auto from the 80's before they had the squeegees that they have now. So the real secret is the emphasized wording above

I'll check tomorrow what I have left (it's at my other shop). How many linear ft. Do you need ?

I use reverse osmosis water for my mounting solution only. Never given me any issues and if you're super fussy, I would notice the difference between that and using unfiltered tap water for the odd speck .

I've had that happen myself. I read my own top left years ago.

My kids tell me it's because I'm just getting old

I know what you mean. The problem they have ( in my opinion is that whoever they train isn't an installer so they don't think like an installer.

When I do a pattern template, I make sure all fingers are eveny distributed for the best shrink before cutting and that there is EQUAL overlap but very very little around the whole perimeter.

I treat each car different knowing that each install is different . I wish I could clone myself and do all the patterns but I only do a few that I get too first .

Yes , all is well , I started a new business completely unrelated to tinting I'm really enjoying

Windshield strips for new Ram's are... interesting.

I haven't seen or used one yet but for the record, it's not my handywork

Phone in if there's something wrong with it and they will make it right

I've got a new Kia Optima back window pattern I'll be submitting that will be a little more "user friendly "

Not sure if this has been submitted yet but current pattern is an 1/8" too narrow as well as rear doors.

I'm not sure if they have or not either

I remember doing them when they were a regular car to tint. Pre heat shrinking days

There must be a few around

There's a lawsuit just waiting to happen

So it ends up I checked and I have 50' 24" of PP 35% and about 130' 24" of PP 18%.

In perfect condition

does it really make a difference if you store your film in a temperature controlled environment.... what if it get's really hot in your shop ... lol what happens to it? or if it gets really cold...?

Maybe someone of more science can kick in on the specifics but my dad and I have always stored our tint boxed , bagged and kept climate controlled with humidity at under 50% since being in business (1978) and myself (1984) and no matter how many years have gone by , never had film go bad that way even after 10yrs +

I have seen film separate and finger / delaminate in no time when left out at high humidity. It is literally a lifetime of storing tint this I can speak from experience rather than the science of it .

You have mail

I still have some Platinum Plus . Stored properly in low humidity . I will check my shop tomorrow and see how much I have approx and what shades. I know I have 35% and I believe 18% both are either a 20" or 24" . Can't remember how much on each roll

I've got a new Kia Optima back window pattern I'll be submitting that will be a little more "user friendly "

I've been sick and tired of Volkswagen's window/panel/curve bs for years now

I have saved THOUSANDS of $$$ doing a 30sec per vehicle walk around before picking up any car from a dealership or before the customer leaves my property . You wouldn't believe the damage I've pointed out to customers before they leave and had NO idea before I eye fuuked the car. It's seriously the best invested time ever in this industry .

The highest ratio of "surprise damage " will always be the customer that bought a "new" car. "New" to him but its from a used car dealer and its a couple of years old.

Yes , I prefer shorter extension cords and a gun on each side

I proved a theory I had years ago and this seems like an appropriate place to post it.

Outside of physical damage ( running over a heatgun, dropping it, etc) I figured out what the number 1 issue was for going through cheap heatguns so fast: it was when doing back windows. It's turned on too long for a back window . About 10 yrs ago I bought 4 guns for the shop. 1 for the left side , 1 for the right side of the car and 2 guns permanently strapped together for the back window. With each gun not getting "too much use" , they last much much longer than just 4x as long. The average time a back window takes for me to shrink is about 3min. With the dual guns. It's my thought that when a cheap gun runs into say 5 min or more, the gun takes the most internal beating thereby frying itself much earlier than need be.

10 yrs later, the original 2 guns strapped together for back windows are the cheaply Wagners and still running strong.

This isn't to convert people but rather just showing what I think killls a cheap heatgun

I have nothing but Mazda's booked for the next 2 days, which will be the last 2 days I will be working this year... ....so pretty easy end to the year.

What tool you using for the 1/4 windows on those Ron? So far I'm finding the EZ reach to be the best. I ask because you probably do as many as me