The ///Man

On 4/27/2021 at 1:20 PM, davidxc said:

Hi all,

 

I recently got my Clarity tinted, limo on the rear windows. I'm noticing this effect on the glass:



The shop claims that it's a strain pattern on the glass, from the manufacturer. Another car-specific forum claims it's a bad tint job, having to do with the application.

 

Hoping to get some educated opinions from the pros. Hope I'm not posting in the wrong place.

 

Thanks!

That's definitely some type of chemical stain on the glass.  Probably from dealer lot washes or car wash.  A detailer can probably resolve it.

22 minutes ago, csixer66 said:

Ive seen many of tinters not shift back before top cut. Always in my head thought that would throw it off worse. 

 

Sounds like it wont. Wonder why this is?  

Your tint gets pushed both down and away from the short side with a gap along the edge.  I mean technically if both front and back have plenty of extra, it won't matter if you do what you are doing, but if you are having to make sure it's far enough forward to not have a gap on the front side, chances are the curve won't line up.

Don't shift to center and cut.  Try cutting it after you cut the back without moving it.

I cut bottom and front, then move the film forward and down about 1/4", then cut back and top.  I guess you could refer to the front as the small side of the window since it's not the front on the back doors.  That said, when you install, this compensates for the angle down by pushing the film toward the large side and usually lines up well.  The only time you might see a big difference is on windows that take a lot of shrinking.  For those you can give a second trim along the top to make up the new shape.  Just make sure it's a little longer on the bottom and small side so it fits right when you install it.

I have a SnapOn one that's probably 3-4 years old now.  I think it's a Steinel, but I don't know for sure.  I did find that letting it cool down a maybe 30 seconds has really prolonged the life of most of my heat guns.  This SnapOn one though, I've dropped it too many times and it still keep ticking.  I've been super surprised.

I'd say Express would be a good place to start.  Most of their films are good enough to install with some confidence, but reasonably priced.

Had a customer come by with a 2021 Porsche that the dealer had tinted for her.  She wasn't happy with the match to the privacy.  She said she was told it was 3M, but whatever it was, it was an ugly yellow color, kind of reflective or hazy looking, and blurry when looking at a low angle.  It was strange because it looked like several year old cheap tint, but it was brand new.  I'm curious if this was some sort of IR film or something, or maybe the dealer was blowing smoke.  Anyone familiar with it?  We're going to be removing and putting our brand.  It turns out my wife has the same vehicle and she really liked the way it looked.

I use Classic Black as a wholesale and stepping stone film.  I offer it with a one year warranty.  That said I think I've been using it for 3 years now and I've seen a few cars that still look good.  It's a great entry price film.

It's tempered and the bottom is bare edge as the glass vents to the outside.  The defogger has rails close to the black band so you have to make your pattern pretty tight on the sides.

Since you're in CA there is likely some legality in the work you had them do.  I imagine if you didn't have all of the prior required paperwork done to make it legal for them to do the work, there could be a reasoning for them not wanting any attachment to the job.  Did you provide them with whatever legalities were necessary for your state Government?

There's a warning in PrecisionCut, came here to see.  Thanks for the info.

Looks like creases from shrinking.  I'd say go a little slower and watch for light creases because you can lift the film and heat them out so they don't look like that when the film dries.

I installed some a couple weeks ago on a 2019 F350.  It's interesting to work with due to the thickness.  My take away.  I used a lower heat to shrink in than tint, which counters what they told me, but the first attempt I ended up burning a lot of spots.  Slow and steady was the key.  I used a glove and in some places a hard card with a towel and no scratching, though on the first attempt since it was already going in the trash, I tried some spots and straight hard card will put some scratches on it.  It is very clear to look though, and I talked to my friend I did it for and you don't notice it's there.  He has lane departure and is a habitual car wash user, so I figured he would be a good tester, not to mention it was his 3rd windshield on a 2019.  I'm going to likely start offering it here since we replace a lot of Subaru and KIA windshields that seem prone to cracking.

Llumar IRX.

This is why I like this place.  LOL.  I'm going to tell the guy that I'll do what I can to protect it, but we don't take any responsibility.  It looks like mid-year 2017 they added in a cover to protect the amp from water damage.  Only way to know is to pull back the quarter panel and see.  Might as well stuff towels in there anyways if you are in there.

I will heat it a bit and hit it with a file.

On 7/17/2018 at 10:32 PM, quality tintz said:

Do you heat window with heatgun then shave or wet shave ???

Sorry, haven't been on in a bit.  Speed 30, Force 16 with a 25* blade.

I was washing my Ford and saw this. I know there is more, but this reminded me of this thread. I would say if it’s your paint you should offer to pay for re-filming it, but if it’s their work, they would probably do it to make you happy. I can tell you though, there are several paint imperfections on my 2017. 

The only down side I can say, some can be dirt, but I see a lot of new vehicles with dirt in the paints also.  I've found some on my 2017 F250 while waxing it.  I hope it's just dirt, but it it's not, there's nothing I can think of the installer can do.  

If your work is good, and your film is good and reliable, you won't have to tint illegally because there will be plenty of people willing to pay a premium for a good job in a good film.  

https://www.windowfilmmag.com/2015/08/lawsuit-claims-tint-to-blame-in-fatal-hit-of-teen-jogger/

14 hours ago, Mr paladin said:

The only thing that changed I've had nothing but problems with my plotter and patterns since my forced Windows 10 update maybe pure coincidence I don't know

Sometimes if the blade is out too far you will get funny cuts.  Also if the cut strip is starting to cut through.  

hAVE YOU CHANGED ANYTHING?

On 2/9/2018 at 6:00 PM, no ma'am said:

Agreed, don't roll it down easy fix most likely. I get rushed by the dealer on too many jobs. Hope it's not my window

I know those feels.  One hour in to a job I asked 4 hours with and they bring it an hour later than their appointment time because the customer was late, "Is it done yet?  My customer is waiting."

It can be laid down easy.  Swing it by the shop and they can knock it down in a few seconds.  Will be even easier since it's dried a bit.  Just try not to roll the window down until you do.