Jerry Hernandez

The hatch on those wagons do need a bit more TLC, but there's no reason that back window should be that bad. If he's willing to remove and refund your money, that speaks a lot about his character. CHEERS TO THAT!

I feel as if the last few days the calls have calmed down a bit. How do you see the traffic count?

Been tinting for 27 years, lots and lots of windshields, always EXTREMELY careful. I've done jeeps, rams, Teslas (even did a model X full windshield) thankfully I've never had anything bad happen but I have sweated bullets plenty of times. Many of the times, I think to myself that I should have had a waiver as well. Bottom line, a shop could be as careful as could be and stuff happens, that's why they're called accidents. The decision the customer needs to make is if they too are willing to take the risk and have the confidence in the shop to fulfill their wants. A shop is wanting to fulfill the wants of a customer, but sometimes there has to be certain risks that are shared. As long as all precautions are taken, everyone should be happy.

IMO, if they would had used the same line of 3M film all around, it should have had the logo on there. If they would had cleaned off the logo form the back, they would have done the front ones as well. If you can find a performance meter, the films should be pretty close in performance front and back, otherwise, your presumption might be right.

Sure.... super legit 🤭

Cake walk!! Its not too bad. Sides require a good amount of shrinking, pay attention on the back glass, don't need vinyl on the matrix, go all the way up with the film. First shrink, then cut on all the windows. Once you have the rear installed, push really hard with the hard card on the matrix upwards. If you see the white on the dots, it helps of you peel the film and heat it up in the matrix area.

In 27 years in the industry and many many trade shows, never heard if medical grade film. And I have done lots of work at hospitals.... As far as the "bubbles", if they're water pockets, they'll dry out if not too big. If they're air pockets, they're going to stay. Give it about a week and plenty of sun to be sure.

Could be a few different reasons. I tried XPEL prime in the past, I wasn't very fond of it. The "zippers" could be from the film not sliding adequately on the windshield even with enough slip solution, that's just the design of the adhesive on their film. The hazing was another reason I didn't like it. I did a full windshield on a TeslaX and also got distortion and a bit of hazing. Take into consideration that the TeslaX windshield is the biggest window on any automotive vehicle, but in my opinion the amount of distortion I saw on the XPEL film was not to my satisfaction. At the end of the day, I would encourage you to address the issue with the shop and take into consideration the price vs the quality of installation. Maybe a small refund could be a solution rather than a full redo. If the shop is credible, they should be able to have a satisfactory solution. You mentioned Llumar on your wife's vehicle, that's my choice for windshield film now a days.

What I do is shrink the window 100%, and cut the film all around exactly where it needs to be when installed. Then I'll hold a lamp through the inside behind the connectors and cut out an oval around the connectors. You'll need to shift the ovals about 1/32 of an inch inward to compensate for curvature of the thickness of the glass. I get the film in the gap between connector and the side. It is a pain to get it 100% clean though. But in all reality, if the defroster doesn't work and one piece is off, clean all the lines and plugs off and don't worry about the ends. F-it!!

I've tinted a whole bunch of windshields and knock on wood I've yet to have an issue. He just needs to make sure he covers everything really good, prevent runoff to the bottom of the glass and not go crazy on the water.

I stopped using baby shampoo all together because it was causing a similar issue, J&J have changed the formula and so has the Parents choice from Walmart. I got myself a clear glass with no design, put cold water, put hot water and put shampoo in it and left it for some days. I was right, the shampoo was getting milky in the water so it led me to believe it was the shampoo. It also would leave residue inside the walls of my bottles. Now I use the SolarGard Stick and Slip and got brand new bottles. Don't have the issue anymore.

I cut the long side, slide it back, tack the film down, mark the front with my blade retracted (you can use a dry erase marker or similar) then roll the window down to make my cut. Then I place the film on a wall glass to round my corners and the short side (or front) of the window going over a bit from my mark to eliminate any light when installed. This way I don't offset my cut in the top.

I have the same issue when I wear polarized sunglasses. My fix is to wear non-polarized glasses and keep my windshield film. I'd rather save my interior and keep my vehicles cooler plus not feel the sun on me when I drive. I recommend the driving lenses from the Serengeti brand, you'll love them! That's all I use for the last 20 years.

That's definently something I've contemplated for some time now. I still don't don't look over vehicles and dont have documentation because I dont want the customer to try to catch me on something I missed. I am fortunate that I haven't had an issue with this. Theres been a few times that a customer tries to tell me small details weren't there beforehand, I just deal with each issue individually. My customers know that I'm a one man shop so they usually know I'm telling the truth about issues and an careful. My reputation definently helps though.

IMO, if the film is behind the panel, its fine as long as the work is clean. Nonetheless, you can double check with the shop see what they're willing to do if you're not 100% satisfied. Personally, I would choose Llumar over Wincos.

Sounds like a Lexus design failure. I don't see how it's up to the shop to take responsibility for a poor design. Here in the desert, sand gets in between the gasket and glass and scratches it, that is going to happen much faster with a soft coat even if it's on the inside.

I'm curious to find out the different approaches you guys take to do the hood of a Super Duty with the stamped letters. Pre-cut kits have the letters cut out which must suck to line up the edges of each letter. Doing bulk, its nearly impossible to mold the PPF into every crevice. So what's your approach?

I'm curious to find out

If you're doing the full glass or only the back part, they're not too bad. I personally have 3 price brackets for this car.

How long should we expect the PPF to last being that different cleaners such as Clorox and windex are being used as cleaning agents? Is it warranted for 10 years still?