Jerry Hernandez

If Huper wasn't so strict on becoming a dealer, I would handle them over XPEL. I am an XPEL dealer for PPF, don't use their window film.

I haven't yet, but if I did, I would of taken the approach of the older Corvette's which suck to do. Tack 1/3 of the way down, dry shrink, and pull and shrink method.

Not necessarily. I'm a SolarGard and a Llumar dealer. I've had SolarGard on my vehicle since 2008 and still looks perfect. I would do Llumar over Suntek.. IRX and AIR80 on windshield.

I would say more, but I've been in business for a long time plus our winters are mild and bright so customers still look for the product.

So it's not so much about what I tinted but what I did with the film cores! Christmas decor!! The video looks better but couldn't upload it. 😁

Most good batteries will last with the ignition on about one hour as long as you turn off the headlights, turn off the radio and make sure the Air hot and cold are off! You still want to turn off the car if you're working on the back to reduce the risk of a dead battery. Keep a jumper around cuz even new cars can die quickly.

This year is kinda weird cuz of Covid, cuz you shouldn't see three cars a week in this season. MAKE SURE YOU SET YOUR BUSINESS UP ON GOOGLE MAPS AND CLAIM IT!!!!!!! I cannot stress this enough. Yelp is great, but around here I get about 90% of business from Google searches.

Kinda late but call Sunbelt Distribution in Houston. They have different brands and are reasonable with prices. I have used SolarGard HP Supreme for 13 years, no issues. Not the most user friendly, but lasts forever.

Have you had this asked to you? I have several times. The jist of it is basically: Customer- "Yeah I got my car tinted by you, it has a lifetime warranty right? " Me- "Yes" Customer- "well I got a new car, the film has a lifetime warranty so itll cover this one?" Me- 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ Basically the customer thinks the warranty will extend to the new car eventhough there is nothing wrong with the film, just trying to get a free tint job on the new car. 🤪🤪

Llumar IRX. Has huge numbers and Llumar tends to be factual on their performance information. Pinnacle is also very good.

Not to insult you, the pic looks like you left some adhesive behind from the removal. Remove the film, bag the glass with the adhesive remover that works for you (as if you were sweating off film) then clean the glass again to be sure all the adhesive got penetrated. I too have heard Global has an aggressive adhesive. If you think its glue smudging, try another brand for argument sakes.

I was at my old shop for 14 years, I moved 3 years ago for similar reasons. I might have to move again for the same reasons. I'm more comfortable moving now than last time because I moved close to my old location. My customers still followed me and found me online. I took a slight hit the first year, but been rocking the last two. Bottom line, most customers find me online before they show up. Look at the big picture. If your new place is close by, will save you some money, is nicer and you have on line presences, you should be fine.

I have been in the business for 27 years and really get into it when it comes to performance. My first pick is the Zenith film from SolarGard, second would be the IRX from Llumar. Both are reputable in reporting factual numbers, make very good film and are the two biggest manufacturers of film. Go to the sites and look at the performance numbers.

Yup... about 19 years ago I did about 30 of them for the water utilities.... they were a pain! They get hot, and the edges collect a lot of dirt. Best advice.... be patient and clean the edges really good.

I've used SolarGard HP Supreme for 13 years and have had 6 windows come back with adhesive failure, no color change at al. Try looking up Sunbelt Distribution in Houston, they have lots of brands and are great people.

Between Llumar and Global, the Llumar IRX outperforms (better heat rejection) Global Ceramic. Llumar is still a bigger company than Global. Global has gotten really popular in the last few years because it is lower priced to purchase and user friendly. Llumar has great clarity, also very user friendly but it costs more to purchase. As a shop owner I had the choice to purchase either brand, i chose Llumar because of its longtime reputation. (I do sell much more SolarGard than Llumar though)

Lint can come from many sources. It could be flying around, your rear deck, the absorbent cloth, he could even accidentally put it on there with a squeegee if the squeegee was on a towel or your seat prior to cleaning the glass. If the tinter was a jerk about it, it could of been he was having a bad day and reacted out of frustration, not the customers fault or the customer might of been more aggressive than needed. At the end of the day, it could be replaced but keep in mind that another lint or a cluster of dirt can reappear and a customer cannot expect a 100% perfect job everytime. The lint is aesthetics, it won't affect the film in any way. The few times I've had imperfections brought to my attention, I give the customer the option to replace with the understanding that it could end up the same or worse, but at that point the customer accepts it in that fashion. Good luck.

As you get experience you'll start noticing different tricks for different cars. Old cars, new cars, different models, different techniques. I've been at it for 27 years and there are times I have to dig deep into my memory on older vehicles. IMO, overall, most American and Japanese (excluding Lexus) are easier than luxury and European cars. I typically charge about $40-50 more on Mercedes and BMW because the vertical panels overlap the windows more than most cars, I'm not big on removing bottom sweeps, I only find it necessary on maybe 6 different models. At the end of the day, it's a non-stop learning curve. Best advice I can give you is to be honest with your customers, and realize that sometimes you win, sometimes you lose and that's how your learn and get better. Good luck!

That's a tough one. Try the same hack as frameless windows. Open and close the top a few times and look in the edges and trunk for any pin switches or latches. Push in switches and close any latches for the roof, I would even close or latch the doors to make the car believe the doors are closed. Otherwise you might have to shrink yourself to fit inside the car and treat the back window as a window on a Tundra. Good luck! Make sure to share what you find!

That issue should only be on Chargers, Chrysler 300 and Challengers, maybe a mustang here and there but should be minimal. Pay attention to the shrinking. Move slowly and try to flatten the film while shrinking plus do a light scrape on the defroster with a plastic blade. As far as the film, SunGard back in 1999 came out with a "low pucker" film, it actually reduced the blisters on defroster lines. Maybe try another brand just for fun?

That's right man, close the latch with a screw driver. Its the same for camaros, challengers, and almost all frameless windows now a days. For future reference, the Hyundai Genesis and the FRS style of vehicles have a pin on a black base, unscrew the screw preferably all the way out. Good luck!

I do eyebrows and haven't had issues. But as per all manufacturers, film is not supposed to go over window film. IMO the concern is on moving windows rolling up and down, those I won't do because the scratch resistant coating will not let the adhesive bond properly. On rear windows it's a bad idea as you will loose clarity plus the big sheets are not going to do well on each other.

The glass stamp says Tempered GS.

Hello. I use the Air80 from Llumar. The Pinnacle series is for the Formula 1 dealers from Llumar, that stuff is pricey and not much better performance than Air 80. Personally the 3M is a lot about paying for a name brand. I've always focused on Value for the Money and the Air80 IMO is a terrific fit for the way I run my shop. Air80 has a 42%TSER 99%UV and 89 or 91% IR. Just did this Camaro all around and the guy loved it.

I literally use 4 half size bounty towels per full car, 2 half size if only two front doors. Use a cloth towel on a rear deck if you're concerned of water damage, use the blue shop towels for your hard card. Wal mart has the cheapest price on them. Use the heavy duty ones if you can find them, they have a waffle pattern to them rather than a smooth finish. They're very strong, hard to tear. You'll throw them away from being dirty rather than being torn.