Tintguy1980

Where's that SpitSprayMyCoffeeAllOverTheScreen emoticon. |
 
 

Tell us more about this wonderful product!  

Whoops, forgot one thing maybe two.
 
They are also using lowE technology in auto glass; from what I saw when seeking the other info, it is being used in sunroof and panorama roofs. If it is a single sheet and not laminated, any film applied to the actual lowE coating negates the lowE properties (which is the same for architectural glass (single pane lowE glass).
 
Also, I mentioned the EDTM meter and I must admit I am unsure whether the ID is 2250 or 2450. I know it was pricey back in 2014, but it was found to be as accurate (-/+ 2-3%) as the photospectrometers mannies use that cost 100K or above.

The attached picture should be enlarged, framed and hung on a wall where you discuss the cost with your clients.

Simply put: Where the greater light source is, is where one can see to better.

Fair warning: Using anything that can interfere with nighttime (or daytime) visibility out the the front windshield can become a deciding factor, if discovered or reported, in any accident.
 
Insurance can refuse to participate in payouts based on the road worthiness aka legality and visibility factor.

Forgot to mention; instead of tinting the windshield I chose to put a light color dashmat, which helped tremedously given the dash came in black.

Could be worse. Here is the look my 2015 Jeep Cherokee has when under the worst kind of lighting; mist rain days. The front door has 3M Crystalline 40 (8 yrs old) at this point.
 
You can clearly see the mismatch between that film and the privacy glass that has no added film. From the inside looking out, the front doors closely match the privacy color, just lighter.
 
Before the question is asked, that privacy glass is about 20% visible light transmission, 60-65% total solar energy rejection and 95-99% UV reduction. The fronts were 70% VLT light factory tint (green glass) before adding Crystalline 40.

I look at it from this perspective: Would I rather be legal and comfortable or illegal and risk insurance issues in the event of an accident because of illegality?
 
Even dark spots on my hands as I age irk me and if I keep staring at them, I'll develop a resentment toward them possibly leading to $$ spent to make them go away. If I ignore them, I still have my $$ in my pocket and dark spots everyone my age has. 😆

Simply put: Where the greater light source is, is where one can see to better.

This is where I sit in class and learn about the shop operation side. Mid-90's is when I left shop ownership behind, so I have no clue what it's like today save a few discussions when I was a sales rep.

Great input Dano and Bham and thanks for your props from my own past posting(s).

There have been others more knowledgeable than I; Vclimber, Harvey and the retired 3M guy from West Coast Florida (forgot his pen-name), and many others over the years I've been a member. What helped me was always being inquisitive when around the obviously more versed than I. Boy did I ever pay attention to Vclimber (I believe he has since transitioned).

Much appreciation for the props.

I look at it from this perspective: Would I rather be legal and comfortable or illegal and risk insurance issues in the event of an accident because of illegality?
 
Even dark spots on my hands as I age irk me and if I keep staring at them, I'll develop a resentment toward them possibly leading to $$ spent to make them go away. If I ignore them, I still have my $$ in my pocket and dark spots everyone my age has. 😆

I have a 15 Jeep Cherokee with privacy and 40% 3M Crystalline on the fronts only. Distinct bluish look in certain lighting compared to the privacy. It irked me in the beginning, but that eventually subsided to, f**k it, I'm not doing it over. Inside looking out is a tad off, but there isn't any bluish hue.
 
Privacy glass varies in color from glass manufacturer to glass
manufacturer, so my privacy glass will definitely have a different look than your car's glass. It's crap shoot when adding aftermarket film.

Cheers

I would return and request the 70% be removed from the rear doors, the small quarter glass and replaced with 50%. This should bring you closer to an in series color match than you see now. The back glass won't be as obvious as looking through the side from outside the car.
 
They likely will charge you for the replacement. Just don't be shy about asking for a break in the price to redo. It's a yes or no question, so the difference is in how you handle the answer.
 
They can also address your 'wonky' issue when there. This may be film edge lift off the border dot matrix. Sometimes pressing the film back to the glass will get it to stay. Like I said, the shop can address that.
 
 

I honestly don't know anyone with more flat glass knowledge than @Tintguy1980. I really appreciate being a fly on the wall when class is in session around here. 

I have worked a few different ways when it comes to commission and that's really all I can go on for your information. 
 
I did a salary vs. commission where I was guaranteed a certain weekly pay even if I did not tint anything but if my commission earnings were more that what my salary would have been I received my commission pay instead of my salary pay.  On this job I was hired as a window tinter but was expected to help out the installers if needed but not paid to be an installer, just a tinter.  
 
I also worked an hourly including commission situation.  This was at an accessories shop so if I was not tinting windows I was turning wrenched on accessory installs. Received both hourly rate plus a commission check for tint every week. 
 
Have also done just straight commission as a tinter only. Not a bad way to go if the shop has enough work for you because there in nothing else for you to worry about except tinting.  
 
Re-do's are what they are.  If you have a good experienced tinter and you feel it fully necessary to charge them for product if having to redo something then go that route. Otherwise I would not penalize the tinter if they are on commission and not an hourly rate. Just let them redo the mistake and you as the film supplier just eat the extra film. This is of course if your redo's are at the minimum.  Constant redo's will have to be handled properly at your discretion.
 
Hourly is a little more difficult.  If on hourly I "might" deduct for the amount of film they are using to redo something and let them keep the hourly.  It really depends on the situation in this case.  

For edifice, I've ran the gamut of all of these and prefer the wholesale position with a light mix of retail regulars/referrals over babysitting  installers.
 
As to your question of warranty work, a good installer should only have a few panels come back each year. I average about 5 or 6 annually, usually in the winter. A good installer should replace it without complaint.
 
If it's customer damage from a seatbelt etc. you should offer to comp him.

Commission is usually found in direct retail environments. If a shop sells an install for $---.xx an average installer should expect 35% of the sale for the labor.
 
An entry level guy might be 30% or less, or sometimes hourly. 
 
A top level guy that doesn't need a babysitter can easily get 40% to 45% of the total sales ticket. Once you get to this level most of these guys are 1099 subs and should be carrying their own insurance.
 
If the shop has a good sales team, good environment, good volume 40% is about the most you should have to pay. Shop keepers insurance shouldn't be to much, but require that you get a copy of their cert.
This is why some shop owners will only pay on a w2.
----
After that you get to the wholesalers who will provide film and services to shops who resale their work. Audio shops, fleet upfitters, small to medium dealerships. These guys will help the retailer set a list price and bill at a net of usually 70%. Also on 1099 and usually net 30 days.
----
After that is when an installer opens a full retail store to the public and the cycle starts over again as he trains or hires from the above list.
 
For what you are doing flat rate is about the way to go if the inventory is mostly similar. Most all pre-load situations are this way.
 
The only variation would be if you need to pull the door panels or other interior parts off for access or not because it adds more labor to the job, which can also be flat rated. You can check CCC1 at a bodyshop for labor times and divide by half usually and be pretty accurate.
 
Whew... I'm gonna go sit down with @Bham now. I'm out of breath.

Thanks. I know in that photo the front looks darker than the rear but i don’t think it actually is. When you look from the outside in you can see the rear is darker. When measuring the VLT it was definitely darker on the machine. Front came in at 37% and rear was high 20s I think. I think it’s partly that the front is a different line and is marketed as being ‘black’ so in certain lights and angles it appears darker. 
 
Have uploaded more photos which hopefully show the rear as darker. Let me know if you still the front is darker. Front is car2 and rear is car3. Car1 is both. 

Physics really sucks.

If you're in a climate zone that demands dual-pane, reflectivity is elevated compared to single pane.
 
Then there's the problem with film products not being able to achieve lower than glass reflectivity without losing two-way visibility.
 
Buying and replacing existing glass with anti-reflect glass is way too pricey and if it were dual-pane, that would be special made and requiring twice the amount of anti-reflect glass.
 
Sucks doesn't it?

Tickled a memory of something I learned when I was at a mfg'ing sales seminar.
 
These three things comprise the law of sales/selling and not necessarily in the numerical order listed here:
 
1. (Low) Price
2. (Excellent) Service ... Service includes warranty or follow through, not necessarily the big smile at intro.
3. (Product) Quality
 
A customer can only receive two. Some will say it's possible to get all three.

Tickled a memory of something I learned when I was at a mfg'ing sales seminar.
 
These three things comprise the law of sales/selling and not necessarily in the numerical order listed here:
 
1. (Low) Price
2. (Excellent) Service ... Service includes warranty or follow through, not necessarily the big smile at intro.
3. (Product) Quality
 
A customer can only receive two. Some will say it's possible to get all three.

Thanks for the kind words.
 
Lots of good advice in this thread. Years ago I did direct marketing mailers, 4x6 postcards to targeted zip codes. They worked pretty good but needed to be sent out every six weeks, three times total per season starting mid March.
 
One of the best bits of advice was from a long time industry guy who told me to lower my price on fulls by $10 and offer with no warranty, at the same time raising my price by $25 for a lifetime warranty. At the time, 20yrs ago, I was at $150. You wouldn't believe how many people took the job at $175 because they were thinking past the sale.
 
For those that wanted the warranty and a discount I would tell them I would package three similar cars for $500 and add in a visir strip for the first car. The customer then became my salesman. I proceeded to offer upgraded film and visors to the remaining two people that he brought in. 
 
Used car lots were a good place to run the three car discount as well.
 
Another good trick up my sleeve was to go in to a buisness while the sun was blazing in the glass either early or late day and ask if they wanted to cool it off. That worked pretty good. 
 
There are so many good hustles if you can get into the mind of what someone actually needs. Radical Service was a good book related to the idea of sourcing and retaining good customers.

I just wanted to say, getting them in the door is the main thing no matter what, from there you can negotiate prices. Which leads me to say always keep 3 different types of tint, obviously getting more money for the highest quality ceramic. Advertise the cheap film but sell them the best film. Always have a demo heat lamp in-store, 2 out 3 always get the better or best film; it sells itself!