DynamicATL

Nah, it would be way too expensive...regular customers wouldn't pay for it no matter if it is a dealership add-on or done at an aftermarket shop. Even if they teamed up with the manufacturers to come as OEM on some vehicles, it would not be legal in most states with the current laws. So even if it comes into fruition, it will not change auto window tint...the same way the electric switchable films didn't change flat glass.

Absolutely. We sell both Llumar/3M and was previously a Huper dealer. I had Huper Ceramic on one of my cars and switched to Crystalline when we picked up 3M. I felt a huge difference in heat rejection...my tinter said the same thing when he switched his vehicle too. Unlike Ceramic films that absorb the heat, Crystalline redirects a good portion of it away from the vehicle. This means less radiating heat inside the vehicle when the it is not moving. The only downside with Crystalline is the color, some people don't like it. Personally, the only shade I don't like is the 20% since the brown hue is very noticeable. With that being said, since your coming from Suntek Carbon you will be happy with CXP or any of the Ceramic options since it will block more heat. So you don't have to go to the most expensive, the others will be a dramatic jump and noticeable. Think of Crystalline as a car that top speed is 230 and the others are 190...either way you're getting a fast car. As for Solar Gard, I personally never used it so can't say much about it. I've always thought of it as a mid-grade film like Suntek but never heard any bad stories about it.

Llumar ATR

Another in CTX

We done a few Allroads but I would have to really dig to find them, so here is a few GTIs for example. Llumar CTX

If you have been happy with Suntek and feel comfortable with the installer, go that route. CXP (Carbon XP) is the same film as Carbon just with more heat rejection. If you want more heat rejection than CXP, they also have a Ceramic called CIR. 3M Crystalline and Huper Ceramic are probably the best deals since those prices are low for CA...shops I know in CA are closer to the $1000 range for those films. The absolute worst deal is F1 Pinnacle being that is higher than 3M/Huper and is nowhere near as much heat rejection. They do have a Stratos line which is what I would expect in that price range. Suntek/Llumar/F1 is a traditional charcoal appearance, Crystalline will have a brownish hue, Huper Ceramic will have a slight reflective appearance.

I take the square foot of the window and add a few inches per side to account for wasted film. Then I have a set per square foot rate for Reflective/Dual Reflective films and the rate increases for more expensive films. Then add on charges if a ladder is required, any equipment rentals are needed, and a driving charge that increases with distance. If the windows are french pane or more difficult than regular windows, the rate increases. I also have a minimum charge depending on the distance. So say someone wants just a door tinted but is 15 miles away, it is an automatic $500 charge. We only do 1-2 flat glass jobs a month since we are pretty expensive which works for me since it is a headache and we stay busy with automotive all year.

Simply put, if you want ROI on a vehicle then you need to buy it brand new and store it putting no more miles on it. Eventually (depending on he car) you can sell it for more money since it will be rare. However, if you buy a vehicle to actually drive it then there is not going to be much ROI. When you add tint/ppf/wheels or whatever, it is not adding value and could be harder to sell down the road. Now if you do a crazy build and have exposure like SEMA or similar than you may be able to sell it for more money than you paid for the vehicle itself. However, will you get back all the money you put into it? Probably not. I add window tint because I want to block heat and add privacy. I add ppf because I don't want to be driving a new car with paint chips from rocks nor do I want the hassle of repainting it just for it to happen again. Anything else added is simply because I want it no other reason. This is a discussion forum and someone brought up ROI so no point in lying about it. I have never once been asked if adding any of this type of stuff would increase value or help the vehicle retain value. So the question is why would you tell a customer things like this would add value?!

Nope, I am white...just not an old racist type of white like you. Also, it is Puerto Rican since your ignorant AF. Also...OK BOOMER.

You skipped over a few especially the Top Definition which fits you much better.

The glass will be stamped with Subaru or the glass manufacturer that makes the glass for them. Just look in the corners of your glass for the stamp and make sure the new glass has the same stamp.

I don't know how successful polishing will be but the right answer is for them to replace the glass and tint the new. If they do, make sure they get the OEM glass not some cheap replacement.

OK BOOMER

The comment is racist not too mention misspelled...not triggered, just good to know your posts are racist garbage.

I knew were an old grumpy bitch but didn't know you were a racist one.

What do you mean by this?

Honestly, it depends on the state your in, the vehicle your doing, and if anything additional being done like a full detail prior to adding film, etc.

If it is a sticker that been added on, generally you remove it since it will look stupid under the tint...some states require a sticker below the tint. If you mean the logos that are part of the glass, you just tint over it and apply heat afterwards to minimize gap.

Yep, especially 3M Crystalline. I have seen it look brownish, blueish, and silverish depending on the vehicle. It is a guessing game when selling it since we like to let the customer know what the outcome will look like before we start. Out of the Llumar/3M lines we carry, I like the 3M Color Stable coloring the best but the 3M CIR is my favorite overall film right now. It took them forever to launch the product and definitely late to the market with it but I think it is one of the best Ceramic options out there right now.

Looks great! I do want to add that the color your seeing has a lot to do with the natural color of your stock glass...basically the combo of the two together. If you see the film by itself, it may look completely different. 3M CIR has a very neutral appearance to me. 3M Crystalline 40/20 has no blue, they are both brownish. 3M Color Stable has the most blue out of any of them. I've had 2 complaints from customers about the 3M CS being too blue...both were BMW owners. F1 Pinnacle has a greenish hue to it. I haven't uploaded the last couple of months of photos from the camera but we just did a M2. I will have to get the photos and see what film was installed. To give people another example, the below is a video done by one of our customers. It is 3M CIR 35 (50 on the windshield) on his Mercedes-AMG E63...it shows before tint, after tint in bright sunlight, and after tint in regular sunlight.

The film is called 3M Color Stable or CS for short. It is a nano-Carbon film which a lot of people don't know since the term "Color Stable" is generic term for basic films that don't turn purple. So I like to promote the Carbon technology so customers know it is not a basic film.