DynamicATL

I haven't seen that anywhere. We do explain to the customer all the issues with the rear glass and have them sign a waiver that we are not responsible for the rear glass being damaged during installation or after it is complete.

Looks good! We go $100 higher than our normal prices for the dyed films and $200 more for Crystalline since it takes longer to shrink...got 2 of those scheduled next week.

@SCOT-TINT We do the whole window which is pretty easy, just looks super hard.

Actually not a bad idea. Here is another 42"x24" for $130. https://www.amazon.com/Studio-Designs-Avanta-Drafting-10060/dp/B005IGEOB2/

Send it to someone else if you're not getting triple your normal price.

No direct shots of the rear window. Any regular dyed film like Llumar CTX in the photos above or Suntek Carbon is super easy. You just need a 60" roll to cover the length of the window and you will shrink on the right/left side of the glass versus top/bottom. It only gets harder when installing films like 3M Crystalline which just takes more time. I do have a photo of the glass itself below.

@SCOT-TINT Ignore the blurred section on the left of the photos...apparently there was a fingerprint on the lens.

Absolutely not. It will only get lighter as it fades over the years.

Absolutely, love it. You can still use accounting apps that work with Square like QuickBooks.

I absolutely hate brake light cutouts, even software cut it looks booty. We had a guy maybe 2 months ago request it and we were all looking at him like WTF.

BTW, we did 2 2020 Tesla Model 3's this past week and both had the large rear window.

Happens with or without window tint, cracks from the body flex. It is covered under warranty by Tesla.

When you get it tinted, there will always be water bubbles which will look more dark grey and harder to see. What you have there is just a bunch of dirt/debris in the window film. The person is just an amateur...I would request a removal/refund and try a different shop. A lot of shops buy reviews through discounts or free upgrades, so even though reviews are a great way to look for a shop, it is not full proof.

IMO, I would remove the tint and keep it stock. Why? Your stock rear windows is colored glass...so you will not find any film that will perfectly match. It will look closer from the outside looking in, but the inside looking will be completely off. So the expectation it will perfectly match will not happen. Not too mention, 3M Crystalline is probably the worst film to attempt to match due to it's unique appearance. As far as the color hue, 3M Crystalline is brownish in the 20/40 shades, bluish in the 50/60/70 shades, and pretty much clear in 90. The shop definitely seems like they made some mistakes especially if they put Rayno film on when you paid for Crystalline. So you will probably be better off trying a different shop that have standard dyed films which are a closer match...Llumar, FormulaOne, Global, XPEL, etc. However, I honestly feel you will not be happy with any tint based on your post above.

We have been using Yellow Schedule for 4-5 years. I recently looked at all the other options and still stayed with YS. The new ones were either great behind the scenes but horrible on the front-end for customers or the opposite. The closest I came to switch was the one by Square.

If so, they got tired of warrantying broken rear windows. lol @Midtown Houston ???

Yes, water bubbles will go away...if cold weather could take up to a month. The rest have dirt or debris in them which is pushing the film away from the glass creating the bubble.

Based on online photos, it is the same as previous years. It has only been out a couple of years, so doubt they would make a huge change so soon. You are probably hearing about the Tesla Model Y which is a small crossover that looks similar to the 3. The Y looks like the rear window is normal.

The real faint ones in photos 3/4 look like water bubbles...the darker grayer colored ones. The brighter silver looking ones in all the photos are dirt/hair that will not come out.

Personally never seen just a air bubble in window tint besides a finger at the edge of the film or adhesive failure on old tint. Generally it is either a water bubble at the beginning or has a piece of dirt/debris that is pushing the film up. You should be able to push on it lightly and see if there is liquid in it.

Yeah, most new people seem not to be using it. Personally I always hated using forums that required you to post in the new member section.

That is super clean!

Absolutely. Personally, I used sunglasses instead of a tinted shield back when I rode since a tinted shield would suck at night. The photochromic route would be a very good choice since you will be getting best of both worlds. If photochromic is the desire, many helmet companies use Transitions including Bell, KLIM, LAZER, and SHOEI. I am sure there are other options that are not Transitions brand too. So there are several options even though it might not be the first choice helmet.

The truth is there is no money there for window tinters and honestly it is a stupid purchase for the consumer. First, there are already several helmet manufacturers that have photochromic shields ranging from $140-$200 depending on the brand. Second, photochromic films are expensive, so most shops would be around $100 or more for the job. Lastly, there is no guarantee that the film will even last. Conclusion, why would you spend almost the same amount of money on something that won't be as clean and won't last? Just buy the shield replacement if your helmet has one or upgrade to a new helmet.