ErieTint

Shouldn't be any issue now. I knew I had just done one not to long ago and thought it did. Good luck.

Did the top not pop back?

If you want I do believe those clips pop and seals will pull out and hang. Don't quote me on it but I'm pretty confident.

Bulldozer will get that. As far as the doors, I spray a fair amount of slip, lay my film on the glass, push with my hands a bit (3/4 way to the top) and it separates the glass from the molding and slides right down. 
Cheers

That's my problem as well. I can do the '10-'15's but the '16+ I pass on. Side glass you can either snap shrink on your peel board or wet shrink the top and you'll be golden. If you go through with pulling the seal you might be able to get away with no shrink.

I usually do most of those steps as well.
 
My process is put the window all the way down and clean side seals and top seal or tape if there is felt.
Then I do a cleaning pass with Dirt Off and a scrubby or razor then squeegee that down. That is when I wipe the top edge of the glass on roll down windows. I wipe my squeegee with my hand after each pass just to keep some of the mess off the door panel.
Then I do a full soak and wash down then squeegee using my slip solution. This time I just dab my squeegee on a towel. I seem to catch the corner of the squeegee when I do a wipe so I avoid that for fear of bringing up towel pieces or lint.
Unless the window seems super dirty (lots of dirt on the towel) then I won't do a second slip solution squeegee.
After that I install.
 
I guess that is still two squeegee rounds, one during clean and one for prep.

Yep, process is the same as the previous models: remove the screw behind the handle and then pull the top back to expose the seal. There are two really tight clips at the back of the panel that can be a pita at times, one of which is mounted on the panel using a metal bracket that bends easy so watch for that.

They're just as easy as the previous years just the front end is upgraded

Thank you for that. This is exactly along the lines of what I was hoping for. Gives me some ideas to possibly pursue locally.
 

The deputy chief called me to discuss doing the new cars and he stressed that he did not want his officers going so dark on their cars although the officers have to pay for their own tint, always have, so I suggested using a film, CTX Series, to reduce more heat and give them the heat reduction that they think dark films give them. I then introduced the idea that putting a film, AIR 80, on the windshields would also greatly reduce heat in the patrol cars and help with the cooling of their computer systems they now have in their patrol cars. I have tinted for the chief for many years so he trusts my suggestions. 
I already have officers telling me how much of a difference their are experiencing in heat reduction inside their cars some were skeptical at first but now are believers in the product and are selling the idea to the other officers in the line up waiting for theirs to be tinted.

Yeah the others are nice. It's an easy half peel but usually takes me about 30 seconds and it's off, and that's what she said.

I concur panel has to be removed just did one today. 3 10mm couple covers and the door lock thingy. Windshields ain't bad imo it's the ones before that that really sucked.

I always pull the whole panel on those

Windshield is a little tricky to shrink but doable, not real sensitive to water. Look for cracks in dash! In front of cluster, hard to spot but very common here in Texas. Sweep removal possible but reinstall is a bitch without whole panel loose. So I'd pull whole panel or half peel personally.

I use a PolySpray2, FilmOn and distilled water for my slip.
 
My bottle will sit for a couple days at times. I have yet to notice any major issues.

I use a PolySpray2, FilmOn and distilled water for my slip.
 
My bottle will sit for a couple days at times. I have yet to notice any major issues.

Thanks @jh812! 

I am thinking of starting to wear them when taking panels apart and seals out. I notice that my hands get really dirty depending on the car and that could translate to the film.
 
Wouldn't hurt in disassembly, prep or reassembly phases. During install though, think thats a no go.

Thanks @jh812! 

Just make sure the color matches your purse
 

I'm with @jh812. I only wear a white cotton glove for shrinking rear glass.
 
I had the same thought as you but wondered if they would stick if you touch the adhesive side where your fingers would slip.
 
(I know, I know, no one ever touches the adhesive...)

Its (almost) as simple as the math with this. Things aren't 100% accurate because, as we all know, our film and factory glass isn't 100% accurate either.
 
Most factory glass that is tinted is somewhere between 18% and 25% with a variance as high as +/- 5% depending on the manufacturer.
 
So if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 50% over top, that will leave you around 9% installed. (18% x .50 = 9%)
 
Same example, if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 15% over top that will leave you closer to 3% installed.

I use a meter . they are a good investment 

Just keep in mind that formula is a guideline and not an exact representation. I checked it several times for legal on windows and it was never within 3%. I believe it is more accurate on the darker vlt but don't depend on it for "legal" 

Its (almost) as simple as the math with this. Things aren't 100% accurate because, as we all know, our film and factory glass isn't 100% accurate either.
 
Most factory glass that is tinted is somewhere between 18% and 25% with a variance as high as +/- 5% depending on the manufacturer.
 
So if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 50% over top, that will leave you around 9% installed. (18% x .50 = 9%)
 
Same example, if you take a piece of 18% factory glass and throw 15% over top that will leave you closer to 3% installed.