Jump to content

Tinting Roll ups


Recommended Posts

I was wondering if you guys could help me on this issue. When tinting a roll up, I tint the top half, roll the window up, then proceed to tint the bottom half. and I always end up creasing the film where the change over point is. Some car windows has the side trim that stick out about an inch which really force me to fold the film putting lot of stress on it and it always crease. Is there a way to prevent this from happening? Am I suppose to fold the film inward or outward?

Also, do you think its just better to just take off the panels for these type of windows? Any input will be appreciated, thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

in your case I would pull the door panel. Bottom feed it. With out being there to show you how to handle the film, it almost impossible to teach you. Handleing the film is like playing an istrument. YOu got to know how its going to react in regards to different situations. You learn this from experience. So start with pulling, then when your good at that go back and try to tuck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got that alot and still do. you have a pink lil chilzler?

after you finish install run some heat on the outside of glass in that area (keeping the heat gun moving and not in a single spot)

once the glass is kinda toasty inside to the touch, use the lil chizler (flat surface against glass) and push those creases out. after working them for about 10-15 seconds they go away

lil chizler also works for getting small creases out and those dots of contamination. as long as you work them out within a few minutes of getting the window done. otherwise it really adhears and gets tough

(all the above use heat on outside of window) sorta loosens adheasive

and finally keep in mind you are using hard plastic against tint so you will probably end up with small scratches so keep it close to the edge and minimal

as I was told a customer will probably be happier with some light scratches inside (that you only see if you catch them in the light the right way), than white dots and lil creases on the outside

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I got that alot and still do. you have a pink lil chilzler?

after you finish install run some heat on the outside of glass in that area (keeping the heat gun moving and not in a single spot)

once the glass is kinda toasty inside to the touch, use the lil chizler (flat surface against glass) and push those creases out. after working them for about 10-15 seconds they go away

lil chizler also works for getting small creases out and those dots of contamination. as long as you work them out within a few minutes of getting the window done. otherwise it really adhears and gets tough

(all the above use heat on outside of window) sorta loosens adheasive

and finally keep in mind you are using hard plastic against tint so you will probably end up with small scratches so keep it close to the edge and minimal

as I was told a customer will probably be happier with some light scratches inside (that you only see if you catch them in the light the right way), than white dots and lil creases on the outside

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After you roll the window up, be really carefull when you pull the film up to spray the bottom 1/4 of the film before tucking. As mentioned earlier, you're gonna get those little side creases alot to the time. I almost expect them now and that the first thing I hit after I finishing squeegeeing the window. I would wrap the chisler in a paper towel, those things scratch the film very easily.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest youngazntinter

or get the wizard gasket. no need to pull the panel. but even with the WG, there's limit to it..some cars have their moulding so tight.....but WG still useful tho.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'd bee surprised if experienced tinters still crease the film even with no panel removal and just tucking.

It's all in the handling and practise.

I used to be plagued by this in my first year but now know this can be a problem area so take care.

No easy way to explain, just practise.

I gaffa tape the edge to reduce contamination and friction from the felt, plenty of slip solution on film and door edge, and raise the glass real slow.

Then when tucking pull film slightly away from edge you are tucking by holding at bottom centre of film which pulls the film slightly off the glass and creates a slight tube effect rather than a sharp fold then slide tuck the edge of the film into position rather than running a card down and folding it into the channel.

If that doesn't make sense then you just need to practise more. But creases there should not be!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...