Jump to content

16 Vette


Recommended Posts

I've had bad adhesive problems where the film wouldn't stick to the black border at all and barely on the clear glass, but I've never had it just bubble up all over all on it's own except on defroster lines. I'd say something's been done to those windows. Did you ask the customer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I was thinking maybe bad adhesive at first but I've tried 2 different brands of film on it with the same result, for my slip I've always use just a few drops of baby soap, or dawn now here recently. I've cleaned the Windows now a few times with alcohol, I'll probably hit it a few more times with it just to be safe. Good thing it's a friends car an he don't mind it being here for a few days or so!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah shrink like back glass.... I cut back edge, then shrink, peal off slide forward 1/16 or less tack back in place and cut bottom and top wet check for fingers and stick, sounds complicated but takes me way less time than wet shrinking whole window

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dry shrink before cutting? I was cutting then wet shrinking, he'll maybe that's my problem I don't know haha I've only done a hand full of these cars over the years, defiantly not enough to know the tricks on them

And I see they say to dry shrink top and bottom, how exactly do you go about that dry shrinking before you cut? It sounds more like treat it like a back glass to me, if I'm understanding it right

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you put just a wet line across the middle of the window and dry shrink the top and bottom is so much easier and faster than wet shrinking. Move the film up a little and re tack your wet line and finish whats left of the bottom. Then wet window and lay the film down and cut your edges. Reason for doing it after is so the film is not all fingered up when cutting. I can blowtorch these doors in about 30 seconds lol which i do often. Heatgun is about 3-4 min

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you put just a wet line across the middle of the window and dry shrink the top and bottom is so much easier and faster than wet shrinking. Move the film up a little and re tack your wet line and finish whats left of the bottom. Then wet window and lay the film down and cut your edges. Reason for doing it after is so the film is not all fingered up when cutting. I can blowtorch these doors in about 30 seconds lol which i do often. Heatgun is about 3-4 min

Thanks I'm going to give it a try in the morning when he brings it back!!! These cars a very far an very few In between for me

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dirt -off, 44 tools, buy it.. Work w 2 bottles use dirt off bottom of window when top loading/film on sides real fat s slip. It works great for prep and application w experience and attention to direction, I've also had good results w x-100 for quick tac on dot matrix, haven't tried on c7 vette yet cuz I don't get the time to experiment. I try my ass off especially w a vette. Cuz merica...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


  •   Sponsored by
    filmvinyldesigns

    ride wrap

    Conco

    Lexen

    tintwiz

    auto-precut.com

    signwarehouse

    martinmetalwork.com

    tinttek

  • Activity Stream

    1. 5

      Automotive Tint Comparison

    2. 0

      At What VLT% does visibility start being impacted

    3. 5

      Automotive Tint Comparison

    4. 4

      Why is my film sliding around in GCC Jag V Plotter?

    5. 5

      Cracked glass

    6. 5

      Automotive Tint Comparison

    7. 0

      Better shop in Europe to buy Films and Tools?

    8. 0

      Paint Protection Film (PPF) is it needed or worth it?

    9. 5

      Cracked glass

    10. 5

      Cracked glass

×
×
  • Create New...