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South facing window tint
Forgot to mention; if your house is under HOA, you may have to check in with them. Some, eh hem, many seemingly shy away from having a reflective look to the glass. A dual reflective with a visible light transmission of 35% (ex: NV35) would likely be more palatable to HOA, but not so happy for the owner. Your position to take with them is: The higher the reflectivity of a film product, the better when dealing with desert heat. There exists a necessary (physics) compromise in every window film transaction. Can't please all parties. Glad I could help educate. -
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South facing window tint
Thank you very much Tinguy1980, I was just about to mess it up. I appreciate your insight! I would have never guessed that the products I was thinking about "run counterintuitive to the use of the product" for the excessive heat. Frankly it does get so hot in that room that at this point I am less about how it looks and more about performance, during summer the AC never stops running in that room, electricity prices here in Las Vegas is up there hence I am trying to invest in ways to cool that room down. Once more thank you for your help I do appreciate it. -
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Sun Pro Glass Tinting is NOW HIRING experienced Installers
Sun Pro Glass Tinting is looking for experienced installs in the Houston Area for *Residential & Commercial window tinting *Security film *Wet Glaze attachment system *Decal & logo installs Please send your resume or contact information to info@sunproglasstinting.com or call 281-242-0222 April 18 -
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South facing window tint
Personally knowing what it's like in Vegas when it's hot, I would stir clear of any film TSER performance value less than 60% or a solar heat gain value greater than 40%. Prestige does not fit this and would be a big waste of good money. Huper Optiks' ceramic products have high solar energy absorption rates, so in hot environments these kind high absorptive films run counterintuitive to the use of the product while using air conditioning to cooling the interior. High absorption on the inside pane, where most films are applied will radiate that absorbed heat toward the room. Outside breezes across the exterior surface of the window will not be as effective in cooling down the interior than say a low absorptive film, high solar reflection film product. In this case, low absorptive/high solar reflection products should be a go-to such as: 3M's Night Vision15 or NV25, Vista Film's Dual Reflective18 or DR 28, LLumar's DR15 or DR25 (which closely matches 3M NV), or Madico's Optivision in and around the same number assignment. The numbers assigned to films represent the visible light transmission of the product. When a dealer comes out to assess and likely have and leave samples, use the samples as sunglasses by wrapping over your eyes a viewing out and in the room. This gives you a more precise idea of what the film will look like once applied. A small sample placed on the glass will always appear darker than having the entire panel tinted. Good luck. -
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South facing window tint
Hi folks, I have south facing double pane windows that get a lot sun here in Las Vegas. Those windows get extremely hot and I want to get them tinted. I do not mind if they are black, mirror, dark, light, etc. I am looking for performance blocking the heat without doing a complete blackout. Initially I was thinking of going with 3M Prestige 70 since 3M is the only reputable brand I could think but I did read a few posts here in the forum and I see that there is other brands with perhaps better products like “Huper Optik”. I have not reached out to installers yet since I wanted to research what would be the best product for my needs, could you folks recommend a product that would fit the bill? Thank you! -
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Wet shrinking problems with certain windows
Dry shrink is akin to moving from the horse and buggy age to the age of automobiles; not only innovative, but you find yourself getting to your destination quicker. Dry shrink is also less damaging to the chemical properties of the film itself. And like Bham has pointed out in different words, work smart not harder. TD mentioned the wet check after dry shrinking, which is a technique used by many in the early stages of learning to dry shrink. Plenty of demos on Youtube.- 2
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Wet shrinking problems with certain windows
You REALLY need to learn to dry shrink. That type of finger would not happen and would be way easier to manipulate before failure. It's not about the time you wait for the prep surface to dry, it is about the ease of shrinking difficult windows without them being difficult. Dry shrinking makes our work so much easier. Your quality of installs will go way up and time spent on tough back glasses or windshields will go way down. The stress of doing a difficult shrink is way less once you learn the ropes of dry shrinking. If you want to improve your craft and get better at installs you are probably gonna have to learn to dry shrink sooner or later.- 2
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Wet shrinking problems with certain windows
So theres no way to get around it by wet shrinking it? I havent touched dry shrinking once and dont really have the time to way for the dryer sheets to dry could i just use water as a grip methood? -
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Wet shrinking problems with certain windows
Wet shrinking has advantages but it also has limitations. I'd learn a good dry shrink technique, then follow up with a wet check. You can get a lot more shrink into a piece doing it dry with a lot less stress on the film.- 2
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Wet shrinking problems with certain windows
hey everyone today i was tinting a BMW front windshield i don't remember which model. Anyways while shrinking fingers closer to the side edge it seems like it will end up creasing while i follow the wet shrinking process. I would like to learn how to fix this or get around it i also would like to stick to wet shrinking heres a video to see what happened and fyi this doesn't happen to me with every vehicle https://www.kapwing.com/videos/663028c4f4e49a37cd3b9eed. THANKS
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