Roach

Yes, that is old adhesive. Is it acceptable? Depends on the tinter/car owner.

The problem, IMO, with glue left behind... when we are removing old tint and glue, we wet the glass. Well, the glue is clear... so it's possible to miss some as we are scraping it off. 

Seeing what other tinters have left or done on cars I see all over the area, I often think I try to do too good of a job. Evidently customers must not care all that much.

Bottom line would be - how much does it bother you? If you take it back... and they say they will redo it again... they could leave glue someplace else. 

I'm not going to be able to offer much help, other then you are going to lose some of everything you use... heat gain from the sun, life of the couch and fading, etc.

The films block UV. The ones mentioned are very light... light is also a big issue that causes fading. So to go with a super light film, you lose some of the fade reduction film offers. 

Glare is a direct result of light. Those films will do nothing for glare. You really need to be in the 30~ range of VLT to get decent glare reduction. 

Going that 'dark' - which that aren't dark on the range of dark films... will cut out a decent amount of the solar heat. But they do better for reducing fading. 

Unfortunately, film doesn't solve every problem. If you go that route, you have to understand there are trade-offs that you will need to weigh in picking what film to go with. 

Would higher heating costs out weigh a shorter lifespan of your sofa?  

I don't use those lines of film mentioned, so I don't know what the heat reduction is with them - but they are generally designed to be lighter in terms of shading but still offer good heat rejection.

I would assume the dealers that use those films would know the pros and cons... I would call 1... maybe 2. Don't waste dealer's time having 8 companies come out. But after 1, maybe 2 home visits... write everything down and check it online. The info is there... maybe not all in one place... but it's there. Look up what created solar heat. Any film is going to play a part in that. UV, VLT, etc. There are many parts of heat... and films reduce the various parts in different amounts. 

Just something to think about. Not super specific to those films... but just films in general and how they work/what they do. 

That was really cool to do! And it looks great

When is the conference? 

I'm semi-retired too.... Pretty much only doing my commercial accounts. I'm just done. 

I still love tinting, but I just can't do it anymore.

Yeah that is terrible. 

Nardo Grey.... I like it!

Ok, so I tried the film today. 

Here are some pics of the film next to a chalkboard that my sister has in her kitchen.

The film is very similar in appearance. Writing on it was also very similar. But, when using the eraser, it didn’t wipe clean. It kindof sorta smeared it as you can see. So I just got a wet paper towel and it  wiped clean.

This film is designed to adhere to a wall rather then glass. But, from the Q&A section for it on solyx’s site, they said it can be applied to glass which if you did, they suggest lightly misting it. (You apply it dry when putting it on a wall)

Overall I was pleased with it. I have no clue how it is price wise compared to normal chalkboard. The advantage I can see is when it comes to size. I was looking on amazon and they have different sizes, but not every size. So the film - you can cut exactly the size you want to have. 

Decorative Films and  Privacy Film/Visium.

Not sure if anyone else does... The sample I got was from Privacy Film.... the chalkboard sample I ordered was from Decorative. 

You're welcome.

That was my thought - bottom line it depends on the surface. If it's not super flat & smooth, then I'd guess it won't be super great. 

I'll see how the film is and report back.

The piece of the white-board film I got, I applied to my wall in my living room.... which was also my office. lol So just a painted surface. It was fairly thick, but I didn't have any problems with bubbles. 

The film itself... I think I had it up for about 9 months.. maybe longer. I wrote on it with a normal white-board type marker, as well as a sharpie permanent marker. I left that writing sit for over 6 months, and it came off with no issues.

I was impressed. I had a normal white-board on another wall above my desk.. but I don't remember trying a perm marker on that. Thinking about it now - I kindof wish I had done both with the same marker just to see if it wouldn't have erased from the normal target white-board. :shrugs:

I should get the chalkboard film tomorrow... I'm going to put it up here just to see how it is... here is not where I want it, so... but I wanna see how well it works. I might go to home depot (or where ever) and get a can of paint that mimics a chalkboard and compare the two. I was looking on amazon and actual chalkboards aren't super expensive, imo.. so not sure the advantage to using the film actually is.

Anyway.... that's the long of it. 😂 

ETA: Oh, and it goes on dry. Which from the description of the chalkboard film, that goes on dry as well. They say you can lightly mist it.... I just installed my piece dry. But it wasn't on glass either. I think if I were to put it on a window, I might lightly mist it just cause.... that's how I'm used to installing.. anything. 

Has anyone tried the solyx chalkboard film? 

How is it? How's the adhesive? 

Yes, it's all one pane. The grid is either in-between the two panes of glass or on the outside.. I can't remember which, but def. not true divided lites. 

House was built in 2006.. so not exactly new windows either. 

But yeah.. I think you are right that it's the window that failed and not the film.

Got a call from a customer I tinted their window back in 2017 using Suntek film. (Not sure which film - looking for my paperwork) She sent me this picture...

Any ideas? I've never had a call on 4 yr old film gone bad.. but there's always the first time. The customer isn't exactly around the corner, so I haven't seen it in person yet. Figured I would get a picture of it first and then go from there. 

9 hours ago, treimche said:

give the stuff away to someone if they paid for shipping. 

I thought about doing that too.... just not sure it's worth the trouble. 

Every winter I purge.

I take the cost of film in to account on my quotes... so even though it's extra, which could be $$$... if it's a film I hardly use... or like 3-4 LF of a roll... I don't have unlimited space. So.. they get tossed. 

Rolls that have enough still left - yeah.. those I keep. 1-2 windows left... of an odd film.. yeah... no. 

I'm guessing not too... but at the same not, not sure it wouldn't hurt. But... it really shouldn't be hard to apply dry either. 

Peel, stick, lift, smooth.

8 hours ago, SST said:

What products have curling issues?

Just auto?

Just adding my $0.02...  His comment probably was just for flat glass films.

I've had some films by different manus curl. But, that's also been in connection with if sun is hitting the windows at the time of install or not, what soap I use, if I've added X100 or the like, etc.  Over the years films have gotten better, but I've still had curling issues within the past 3 years. I just try to remember what films potentially have that issue and try to mitigate any problems while I'm installing it. 

According to the ebay listing. it's Static Window Cling film.

I have never applied that.. does it still need soap & water? 

On 1/18/2021 at 3:49 AM, peter_s said:

it called Veilish

Is that sold all over the world? Or just in certain areas? 

Awesome pics! I wish I could do stuff like that.....

I would have used a 1-way mirror film, only cause the other side isn't very reflective. A typical silver15 will be too reflective on whatever side you want to look into. 

Yeah that's not going to cure. It's either a scratch in the film, or the glass is scratched. Looks like it's the glass.

According to google translate, the first msg says:

Quote

 

You can help me find a white box hp, cxp and Cir dealer. I think they call it grade b.

 

 

That's awesome!!!