Bham

Personally I would run and tell them never to call you back again.  Never saw any results from them other than the money they charge for this and for that.  There are all kinds of hidden fees that don't really add up to helping you in any way.  Took me forever to get rid of them and they kept trying to charge me after I told them to pound sand.   

2023 Lexus IS 350 = doors have an insane amount of shrink to them. I was rather surprised how much. 
 

‘69 in the house   LS3 w/T-56 6spd

4 hours ago, Gav777 said:

Yh i can can accept the fact that it may have the weld marks, i bought it cheap and 2nd hand so you get what you pay for. But I can't accept if the screen wasn't clean before the tint was laid. He tinted the glass outside of the car, in a dirty environment, so it was more exposed to dust and dirt compared to inside the car. If he cleaned it then walked away for a few mins, thats what could of caused a lot of the bubbles. 

Either way you are unsure of the exact cause so you have to be prepared for whatever happens if you decide to remove the film to find the issue.  You will either be correct and it is a poor install or he will be correct and you are out removal fees and a re-install fee plus a new rear glass should you decide to replace it if he is correct.  

I think you have purchased and installed a faulty piece of glass.  It is very possible, since you bought a junkyard piece of glass, that there is "weld spatter" on the glass.  

The only way to know for sure is to pull the tint off the glass and them feel the glass with your hand or run a plastic card across it.  You will 100% feel the weld spatter if that's what it is.  If that is what it is, you can't do anything about and you will need to buy a brand new rear glass. 

One last simple comment then I'm outta this one...... R-Value. The higher the R-value the higher the insulating properties.   This is the only way to fix you problem. 

Not going to continue to argue this point but,,,, Clear glass radiates more heat than a tinted glass.  The exterior of the glass might be hotter with a tinted glass due to the properties and affects of how tint works (absorption and reflection).  The interior side of any tinted glass will be cooler than a clear piece of glass.  This is simple physics and complicated thermal dynamics but sorry,,, you are wrong on that point.  

5 hours ago, CamperDan said:

Once those dark windows heat up it’s dangerous to stay inside. No issues with clear glass.

This doesn't make any sense.  I'm not the smartest of the bunch but I feel confident in saying that you are confused somewhere in this scenario.  I have never heard of shaded windows, either factory glass or aftermarket tint, causing the interior to be hotter.  That's like saying it is hotter in the shade than in the direct sun,, which I have also never heard of.  

The vehicle sitting stagnant in the sun is going to bake itself no matter what type of film you have on the glass.  Yes, ceramic film would most definitely help you feel cooler and help the A/C work better for you to feel cooler.  But everything else in the vehicle is still going to get hot unless it is cooled down by an exterior source.  

Question, is the 144F aluminum ??  This may sound like a dumb question, but I firmly believe that if that Ford is aluminum and not metal, then it will conduct heat twice as fast and twice as far through the vehicle as opposed to a different make. 

One option is to run a sprinkler over the vehicle for a few minutes before you enter so that it will be easier for the A/C to catch up faster.  Other than putting it under an awning that's the best option you have.  

You can't stop the sun !!!!   

Again, simply put,,, the darker the film - the better it will perform.  Add in other performance features like ceramics and whatever the IR rejection gunk is, those things plus a dark film will be the best for performance from the heat.  The only other way to get better performance than that is with a reflective (mirrored) film.  

The easy answer is that your car will still get hot sitting in the sun and will still feel hot inside after doing so.  You can't stop convection and conduction of heat around the rest of the car.  i.e. - the plastics, the metal, the outside of the all the glass. All this heat will transfer to the inside of the car.  

The purpose of ceramic and IR films is for what you feel on your skin.  This is the reason it works so well, because our skin feels more of the IR heat spectrum and this is what is being blocked.  It is a feel thing not a heat thing.  If you didn't have skin, the basic film that blocks UV would be just fine.  

Also, clear films no matter how good they say they are, are not very good on the performance side for heat rejection.  There is nothing there so you can't expect it do anything.  It's clear. 

@Dano  wanna race?? Oh, wait. This one only has 9200 miles, circa 1988.  Can’t be racing that.  
 

46 minutes ago, mobiledynamics said:

Pros - The last pic of the tint on the back deck with the non straight edge ? That can't be plot cut right. It's too *not straight* to be plot cut..

 

Bham or just any tint pro - are you stating that with ceramic films, it's advisable to not tint to edge/file due to the comment you posted. Or it can be one if one want's the tint (to the edge)

 

With that said....my tinter of 2 decades went to plots a few years back. Not sure if it was for productivity ...

Tints jobs look as as fine, except for the half moon edges, which is a very minutia detail difference.

I've had it both ways. Micro edge and filed. 

The half moon corners is because most plotters do not cut sharp, small circles very well.  They just don't round corners very well in my opinion, unless it is a larger circumference curve.  

As for the filing of the edges.  It takes an experienced filer to do that to ceramic film.  With most ceramic films the film is half a mil thicker than most regular dyed films, making it harder to cut, and file.  It is much easier to tear an edge with a file with ceramic films.  Not saying it can't be done, no.  Just saying you better be good at filing already.  I just wouldn't recommend starting to learn filing with ceramic films.  

52 minutes ago, TintDude said:

Dude, why?  

Those Honda motors are easy to build and super reliable once you tear them down and put good parts in them.  Fun little set up there, especially with the AWD + turbo.  Zoom-Zoom. 

Those cut lines could have still come from a plotter/.  That film (IRX) can be tough on plotter blades and sometimes the cut lines will come out a little rougher looking than normal, especially with ceramic films and a dull blade.  Also have to mention that filing the edges with ceramic films is not the easiest thing in the world to do either and the chance of peel back goes up with a thicker mil window film.  

I would have to agree with @CaptainSpodand say there's not much really wrong with that install.  It looks like a pretty clean install which is what the OP said they wanted.  That corner triangle part the OP is complaining about is not that bad either.  I say let it ride unless there is a bunch of trash in the middle of window.  Enjoy your film and put down the magnifiying glass.  

@highplains I've used Press-n-Seal and multiple towels to try to stop solution, but "some" always runs from somewhere and leaves a mark.  

I now do these = " At the customers risk " .  They are told before hand + I do my best to not let solution leave a mark and then it's on them if it messes up.  

Another GM door panel test to see if the vinyl dye is good.     Said it was a 2018. 

1 hour ago, Furmamma17 said:

I removed the old film using the trash bag method  it actually worked fantastic and removed the film entirely but left about 10% of the adhesive behind (not in the area that the marks are, on the edges). The remaining small bit of adhesive I did remove with windex and a stainless steel razor blade. 
 

these marks are on the inside of the window and definitely not adhesive. Almost seem like permanent damage / etching in the glass? I definitely don’t want to mess up my windows more with a buffing agent- scary!! 

Excellent. Do a little more investigating on the marks,,,  If you can actually feel these marks with your fingernail, then leave them alone and decide whether to replace the glass or re-tint and live with it.  A scar on the glass like that will not be fixed with the buffing compound and you will blur the crap out of a glass trying to remove that much damage.  Never going to work.  

Okay, I gotta chime in and ask,,, how did you remove the old film?  

If you spray the glass with Windex and scrape it with a single edge razor blade, any left over residue should come of the window with no problems.  Anything left after using a razor blade is going to be some sort of damage to the glass in my opinion.  

Also in my opinion, if you use a buffing compound like what you are ordering, you run a very strong chance of changing the glass and making it wavy and blurry.  You must be very careful when using any type of abrasive compound on glass.  It will mess it up rather easily if done incorrectly.  

1 hour ago, Darkimag22 said:

I've used Milwaukee heat guns for years.  Last gun lasted 10+ years and just replaced it with this model...

 

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/Products/Power-Tools/Specialty-Tools/Heating-Tools/8977-20

 

 

Pretty sure that one is a lower end Steinel. As well as the Snap-on tool truck one.  Good guns, but not durable.  

I'll tear it up quickly. 

A couple of things I want to say after being on the Crapsman gun this morning.  

Every since Crapsman took over from Porter Cable, the quality has gone done as far as longevity.  They just don't last like the gray Porter Cable ones did.  Get the warranty at the store, you will need it.  

The other thing I do like about this gun is the fact the heat doesn't change when you lower the fan speed.  The amount of heat is controlled by the dial and you can lower the fan speed and still have lots of heat, where the others lower the temperature when you turn them down.   
 

Just my      

The Porter Cable - now Craftsman ones are my favorite for the money.  
If you want to spend some money on a higher end one, look into Steinel heat guns. The are the Cadillac of heat guns.  Super light and work really well, I just won’t spend that much on a heat gun. 

   Like @TintDude said, the etched marks on the glass will show different along with the dots and of course stickers will show a lot.   

Anything other than a flat surface will show a halo.  Even embedded scratches will show a white-ish look like the stickers are doing.  It's just part of it.  You can't have anything under the film. 

As far as the compliance sticker.  It can be applied to the film(after)and not the glass(first)  and will still be okay. In most cases. 

1 hour ago, dcf_atl said:

black or charcoal is fine -- what film should I look at ?

1 hour ago, Bham said:

Not really sure there is a film in that percentage that doesn't have some color to it other than black or charcoal.  

I'm sorry if that was not phrased properly.

rephrased =  I don't think there are any black or charcoal film in that percentage.  Most have some sort of color to them that is not black or charcoal.  

Maybe Global Ice Cool 80% ??  I haven't seen all the films in person to be able to recommend much.  

Not really sure there is a film in that percentage that doesn't have some color to it other than black or charcoal.  It's part of the manufacturing process of taking PET to laminate and it still being optically clear.  In order to get performance, the ingredients create some sort of color in one way or another, again part of the process of making a clear film.  

On another note $850    WOW!  I know they are paying a fortune for that film, but dang.  Not sure their profit margin on that but I wish I could get that for ceramic installs.     And I'm pretty close to the ATL.  Not moving over there    but some of that could trickle this way and I wouldn't be upset.  

1 minute ago, dcf_atl said:

Understand more now -- thanks -- thoughts ? recommendations?

A nice 50% would be a clean, not to noticeable look.  A high performing 70% would be okay also.