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Posts posted by TQtinting
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Hey all! Whenever I buy film, I buy a 60” roll and have them cut it 38”x 22”. That way I have a large enough roll for BG and one for roll ups. Did an F-150 this last week and I took my 38” roll and cut it 8ft long, then I cut off 13” from the top to make my windshield strip. Seemed to be the absolute smartest way to utilize my film.
My question for you is, in your opinion…. What do you believe is the “average” width you think is the sweet spot for doing most of the strips that you do? I ask because I have 3-4 jobs lined up where I believe if I keep doing something similar to this, it will be the smartest thing to do. However a couple of them I won’t be able to do in my own place. So I’d like to cut the film on my glass board before going to the vehicle. I’m just curious to know if there’s a certain width you guys see non stop.
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The first time I ever tinted anything I practiced on doors from a junkyard and they looked better than that 😂 get your money back.
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Hey all! First time being on the site in a long time! Question for anyone who may know…
Has anyone ever attended or heard anything about 44 tools window tinting course? Was wondering if it would be worth the time. I am interested in attending it since it’s only about 150 miles from me. Otherwise I know there are other options out there but this one seems be the longest one for about the same cost as most others. Thanks for any input 😎
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Been a while since I made the post but I’ve since tinted the car, saw it today, and there wasn’t a single spot on the lower matrix that wasn’t sticking to the dots, no “silvering” at all. Just used a heat gun from the outside and bulldozer after heating glass and good to go.
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@Tint Slayer Do you have any recommendation as far as this method goes? Meaning do you have any sort of routine you follow? I’ve seen guys mention heating the glass and then using paper towel to run down the film but I didn’t know what works best. I’ve tried this before but always over heat to where it won’t stick or it’s never even across.
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29 minutes ago, Tint Slayer said:
Can you elaborate on what you do when you torch the matrix? Just curious
By torching I mean using a torch or heat gun on the outside of the glass in order to get the film to stick to the dot matrix. Getting the glass warm in the matrix area from outside and then squeegee it down.
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Howdy y’all! It has been quite a while since I’ve posted hope everyone is doing good!
Question: will be tinting a Chrysler 300 Saturday with the known lower matrix line. Do you guys typically torch this area from the outside and get it to stick the best you can and deal with best results possible or do something else to help it out? I’m a Dotrix guy but I don’t believe reducing visibility would be real awesome for my customer
I have torched matrix areas before and it turned out OK at best. Unless if I’m just not doing it enough.
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26 minutes ago, quality tintz said:
Orange slime is good but you have to put exact amount if not it distorts the glue like dawn...out of all this stuff i like equate baby shampoo its safe but dosent slip good for me in summer.....fusion just reminded me of clear equate baby shampoo...did the name brand johnsons slip better???
I went thru about a whole bottle of the fusion solution now and it never seemed any different than Johnson’s baby shampoo. And you’re right def have to use a lot of it. I’ve heard quite a few people mention 7th Generation brand dish soap my wife buys it all the time but I’ve never tried it.
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4 hours ago, smookee408@yahoo.com said:
I do a walk around on all vehicles I tint. I’ll point out everything that I think they don’t know about. It does suck that sometimes they feel embarrassed by it but better then they saying I caused it.
Yeah when it comes to covering
your ass or worrying about someone being embarrassed pretty sure I’ll cover my own self first.
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27 minutes ago, Ryker said:
Can be double edged sword. If you do something in writing but miss something then they can say you did the damage as it wasn't noted on the checklist.
^ Exaxtly. Which is why I was thinking only have them sign one if you found something and do not state specifics. Just like a general form that says there is damage to the vehicle and said customer is aware before performing service.
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That van windshield I tinted yesterday had rock chips all over it and had a crack in one spot. Customer was happy with my work and asked if I had noticed the small crack. Did not accuse me of anything but had asked if I saw it.
keep in mind this vehicle was so dirty that I didn’t notice it when inspecting. Did notice the few rock chips though.
I always do a a walk around and inspect before I tint but do you guys have any sort of waiver you have people sign? Maybe you find something wrong with a window, would you have them sign something acknowledging they’re aware of it? Just curious.
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3 minutes ago, no ma'am said:
it's just double sided tape
You guys are right. I’m just super nervous about breaking ppls stuff lol. Thanks guys. I hope Autozone has it. Napa is the best place to get it where I’m located and they’re closed today
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Pretty sure that’s exactly what it is. And I’m sure it would be no problem to re attach after tinting is there any concern with putting on film? I don’t have any sticky tape may have to go get some. Or would you have customer re apply?
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I started on junkyard car doors in my utility room at my house. Bought a 100ft roll of some cheap film did about 4 or 5 family cars. Watched more YouTube videos than I can think of and away I went. I won’t do anything I know I can’t tackle and I’ve prob got about 50 cars under my belt now. More than likely will attend a training course this coming summer.
Just go for it but be smart.
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3 hours ago, Tint Slayer said:
I get that, and it makes sense, but i see it as coming straight down onto my work i just cleaned, like do the hairs ever land on a freshly cleaned surface when you do that? How do you avoid that if you spray right over your work?
You make a good point. I could see that happening. I’ve always gotten super clean work this way. If it ever back fired on me I wouldn’t know it yet. But it makes sense.
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Agree with both you guys. And just a little update... I posted my ad and got a ton of calls. Not a single one being a removal I’ll take it!
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One time I tinted a Jeep Renegade or as I liked to call it at the time the “ dog hair Jeep from hell”
and i misted the air, the cab of vehicle, and myself lightly and I could see dog hair floating in the air fall straight to the ground.
I do all of these things before I ever even peel my liner I know for fact it’s made my work cleaner with less F ups.
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Those both look like good professional business boosters.
I thought about wording mine “stay away from the auto parts tint jobs!” Because I know a few guys around screwing people. Charging shop rates to tint someone’s car with Gila. Maybe they should do some research first I guess
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Me being a one man crew and only tinting on weekends and in spare time I get 90% of business thru Facebook. Anytime I do removal i’ll take pics and post them however I don’t really advertise them cause I don’t wanna do them all the time.
Just a random question, are you guys for or against posting stuff like that for any reason? I’ve made a few posts about removals and now feel like maybe it would steer people away from film completely even though I explain “this $h!t film vs. our color stable film with a lifetime warranty.” Explained in more professional manner than that of course
you guys think that’s good for business or bad?
Average width for windshield strips
in Window Tinting - General Discussion
Posted
When I pre-cut the one for the F-150 the other day I was gonna do 10” but did 13” just to be safe. 13” was by far enough. I might have to start getting 20” rolls cut in half delivered for strips. Thanks for the input