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Shrinking curved glass


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Is there any certain go to method you guys use when shrinking a ridiculously curved glass? Example my personal vehicle is a 14’ Ford Focus and the curve of the windshield is unreal. I always do alright until I get to the corners. Tried pull and shrink/directional method on it today and got it but took me over an hour to do it. Plus there’s maybe 1/8th to a 1/4” of room on the sides leaving no matrix so it’s very hard to make anything work there either. 

 

Any advice? My wife’s father owns a Volkswagen Beetle and is gonna let me keep it and practice on it for a while. I’m to the point I feel if I can learn how to shrink the really challenging glasses out there then there’s not much holding me back anymore. Have watched more videos on shrinking than I can count and it does help but hands on just doesn’t compare. 

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What kind of heat gun are you using? When I have a difficult shrink I use a heat gun that has a higher cfm rating so I can pull back a little further to shrink slower. I also try to keep moving around so the film has a chance to cool, try to shrink just a little bit all the way across the top or bottom instead of focusing on a section/quadrant at a time. I also periodically blow some heat under the film, that lifting and light heat seems to help keep the film from sticking to the glass as it gets down to those corners. The biggest thing that's going to help you is to keep doing it, keep trying different techniques and learning to read your film so you know what it can and can't take when it comes to shrinking it.

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19 hours ago, highplains said:

What kind of heat gun are you using? When I have a difficult shrink I use a heat gun that has a higher cfm rating so I can pull back a little further to shrink slower. I also try to keep moving around so the film has a chance to cool, try to shrink just a little bit all the way across the top or bottom instead of focusing on a section/quadrant at a time. I also periodically blow some heat under the film, that lifting and light heat seems to help keep the film from sticking to the glass as it gets down to those corners. The biggest thing that's going to help you is to keep doing it, keep trying different techniques and learning to read your film so you know what it can and can't take when it comes to shrinking it.

I Use the popular porter cable gun that a lot of people use, awesome heat gun. Puts out great wind speed and heat is adjustable. I’ve made several attempts at the glass and have some cheap rebox film I practice with although I’ve tried it a couple times with my Express but didn’t wanna waste a bunch. I will try pulling away with the gun a bit and see what that does for me. 

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On 3/1/2018 at 5:35 PM, TQtinting said:

I Use the popular porter cable gun that a lot of people use, awesome heat gun. Puts out great wind speed and heat is adjustable. I’ve made several attempts at the glass and have some cheap rebox film I practice with although I’ve tried it a couple times with my Express but didn’t wanna waste a bunch. I will try pulling away with the gun a bit and see what that does for me. 

Baby powder...soap or dryer sheet what you using???

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1 hour ago, CnCCustoms said:

Start with your corners... then work inward. I usually start in center and work out. But when you have a difficult glass I’ll begin at the corners and work stress into center. Also are you dry or wet shrinking?

Dry shrinking using either soap or dryer sheets. And have been working center out but agree with you maybe on this I should start out and work in 

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12 hours ago, TQtinting said:

Soap usually sometimes dryer sheets

Soap is good ...start on outer corners good tip.. nice and slow let tint cool down don't get too hot different films shrink different try different brands ask on here which films shrink better. 

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