Tintguy1980

The physics involved simply put = heat always seeks cold and therefore when cooling the interior, the absorbed heat in the glass migrates to the inside where you are using AC. There, Capt Obvious to the rescue.
 
Have you considered looking for a solid whiteout static-cling vinyl material that you could cut to fit the outside of the glass shape? This would certainly reflect the sun's energy away from the dark glass and assist in shaving a few degrees off the internal temp.. The static-cling would allow for easy removal when wanting to relocate. It does require the glass to be clean before applying. The beauty of static-cling is it's reusable over and over again.
 
Example: https://www.amazon.com/VELIMAX-Blackout-Blocking-Whiteout-Darkening/dp/B08CXP3RK4?th=1

This doesn't make any sense.  I'm not the smartest of the bunch but I feel confident in saying that you are confused somewhere in this scenario.  I have never heard of shaded windows, either factory glass or aftermarket tint, causing the interior to be hotter.  That's like saying it is hotter in the shade than in the direct sun,, which I have also never heard of.  
 
The vehicle sitting stagnant in the sun is going to bake itself no matter what type of film you have on the glass.  Yes, ceramic film would most definitely help you feel cooler and help the A/C work better for you to feel cooler.  But everything else in the vehicle is still going to get hot unless it is cooled down by an exterior source.  
 
Question, is the 144F aluminum ??  This may sound like a dumb question, but I firmly believe that if that Ford is aluminum and not metal, then it will conduct heat twice as fast and twice as far through the vehicle as opposed to a different make. 
 
One option is to run a sprinkler over the vehicle for a few minutes before you enter so that it will be easier for the A/C to catch up faster.  Other than putting it under an awning that's the best option you have.  
 
You can't stop the sun !!!!   

Well, in all the tinting I did over the course of 35 years, I could never achieve a spotless install. Even on a brand new car. Airborne dust can be a mofo to knock down.
 
During the 35 year time frame, I also spent endless hours traveling to tint shops around the Mid-Atlantic and, once in tech support as a trainer, the country, I only saw 1 perfect install. It was done in LLumar's Platinum Plus series (highly reflective compared to today's films and no longer available, to my understanding). Higher the reflectivity, the more noticeable the tiniest speck would be.
 
Steve spent time and film getting that perfect install and admitted he didn't know how it was accomplished. If you care to have him do your car, you'll have to make the trip to Kannapolis/Mooresville NC. Might have to let him babysit the car over the course of a couple days; if he's still in the tinting business.

You can't take the blue out of it but you can gather a few film samples and apply them to the inside to see which final color you find most agreeable.

Though BTU meters give you a 'general' idea of film performance compared to no film, they are limited in their measuring of the full spectrum of the electromagnetic radiation coming from the sun (visible, ultraviolet, and near infrared).
 
These meters are designed specifically for measuring change in gas/liquid cooling systems' performance.

Automotive glass is curved, so rollers would not be culprit. Rollers would leave lines across the surface as the glass moves along in the process. Rollers are what produces gritty tempered glass surfaces most flat glass installers loathe. If the rollers are not kept absolutely clean of dust, the particles get fired into the glass surface.
 
Auto glass is tempered during the firing along with any black border coating, shaping the glass, or bake on defroster grid, all in one mold process. The glass is then cooled by air blasts from spaced nozzles. If the air temp from the nozzles runs amuck; i.e., too cool, you will see haze-white splotches laid out in a precise pattern (without polarized lenses), which at times can be either invisible at certain angles or more pronounced at low angle. I'm sure every tinter has seen these.
 
The surface of tempered glass is harder than it's core (think of seared Ahi tuna), this is where thin film interference is produced and gives us a rainbow of colored patterns while wearing polarized lenses. Look at a set of sliding glass doors with polarized lenses.
 
Or, look at the reflection of a set of sliders off the glass of a picture hanging on the wall nearby; in the right lighting you will see thin film interference at play (Edit: without polarized lenses).
 
Solution = non-polarized lenses.

I could live with those doors, but that back window is a redo in my opinion.

It's called thin film interference. 
 
From wikipedia:
Thin-film interference is a natural phenomenon in which light waves reflected by the upper and lower boundaries of a thin film interfere with one another, either enhancing or reducing the reflected light. When the thickness of the film is an odd multiple of one quarter-wavelength of the light on it, the reflected waves from both surfaces interfere to cancel each other. Since the wave cannot be reflected, it is completely transmitted instead. When the thickness is a multiple of a half-wavelength of the light, the two reflected waves reinforce each other, increasing the reflection and reducing the transmission. Thus when white light, which consists of a range of wavelengths, is incident on the film, certain wavelengths (colors) are intensified while others are attenuated. Thin-film interference explains the multiple colors seen in light reflected from soap bubbles and oil films on water. It is also the mechanism behind the action of antireflection coatings used on glasses and camera lenses.
 

If only 2 yrs old they are likely hi-performance (better known as lowE2 or lowE3, since there is little cost difference between the older (standard) lowE and today's hi-performance (HP). HP lowE will look more than usual green when viewing white window dressing from outside. That is of course if at building time standard was specifically ordered.
 I could be wrong sitting behind a monitor and keyboard.
 
 
It was important to ask because you can put any film on HP lowE whereby, standard lowE has restrictions on absorption and reflectance rates a window film possesses. Straight shodows across the glass also add a level of concern from an uneven distribution of heating of the glass. If they are tempered, throw any concern out the window.
 
LowE will take care of ambient air temps as it is designed to be a thermal barrier from far infrared (radiant heat), whether man-made or sun generated air temp. Any wind passing over the glass carries away heat build up in the outer pane's exterior surface
 
A 55 film would give you low to moderate degree of glare reduction as opposed to going as low as dual-reflective 35. dual relective 35 would also increase heat rejection capacity of the glazing system.
 
Consider put 55 or 70 on East/West to preserve incoming light intensity and 35 on South facing to knock down glare a intruding heat factor.
 
The installing firm should be able to determine what lowE type you have with a meter and make recommended film applications accordingly.
 
I want to believe it'll take more than film to bring the temp in the room down to a mid to upper 70 degree range. Extra cooling capacity via larger duct work, for instance. I have had experience with this when tinting a hi-rise condo building in Naples FL back in the mid 90's. It was enlarging the dust work that solved their issue after window film was applied.
 
Good luck.
 
 

Though BTU meters give you a 'general' idea of film performance compared to no film, they are limited in their measuring of the full spectrum of the electromagnetic radiation coming from the sun (visible, ultraviolet, and near infrared).
 
These meters are designed specifically for measuring change in gas/liquid cooling systems' performance.

Standard lowE or hi-performance lowE?
 
Age of the windows?

Tempered or heat strengthened moonroof glass (sometimes found in laminated glass)?
 
Tempered requires a 200 degree difference in temp between glass center and glass edge before shock causes breakage. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree temp difference. Nickel-sulfide inclusion (google and read about) would have to be considered a factor in both types, if either were to break from shock using a 50% absorbance film.
 
My Jeep windshield snapped on a cold but sunny winter day. The sun had been hammering the windshield before I took off to the store and the first full stop I made caused a chunk of snow slide off the roof down the front window. I heard a *pahtink* and when I cleared the window with the wipers, there was a crack halfway across the glass.
 
I've since cleared any snow before driving and I covered my 'black' dash with a beige aftermarket cover. Lesson learned even for a tech guy. 😁
 
 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.

Tempered or heat strengthened moonroof glass (sometimes found in laminated glass)?
 
Tempered requires a 200 degree difference in temp between glass center and glass edge before shock causes breakage. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree temp difference. Nickel-sulfide inclusion (google and read about) would have to be considered a factor in both types, if either were to break from shock using a 50% absorbance film.
 
My Jeep windshield snapped on a cold but sunny winter day. The sun had been hammering the windshield before I took off to the store and the first full stop I made caused a chunk of snow slide off the roof down the front window. I heard a *pahtink* and when I cleared the window with the wipers, there was a crack halfway across the glass.
 
I've since cleared any snow before driving and I covered my 'black' dash with a beige aftermarket cover. Lesson learned even for a tech guy. 😁
 
 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.

I don't think you'll be happy with a 50% given you do not want it to look tinted.
 
If that untinted look tops your priority list, you want something  in the CR70, CR80, or CR90 range, with CR 70 having a slight tint look to the glass (and bluer than the 80 or 90).
 
I'm going to attach a file showing all the Crystalline performance values; may be it'll help in choosing.
 

I don't think you'll be happy with a 50% given you do not want it to look tinted.
 
If that untinted look tops your priority list, you want something  in the CR70, CR80, or CR90 range, with CR 70 having a slight tint look to the glass (and bluer than the 80 or 90).
 
I'm going to attach a file showing all the Crystalline performance values; may be it'll help in choosing.
 

I've had Crystalline 40 on my front driver and passenger glass for 7 years now, it's always parked outside sun-exposed, and it is holding up pretty dammed impressive here at the South side of Virginia (as if it were installed recently).

No it isn't over by any means.
 
My take:
1. It looks like an inexperienced gorilla handled this job with a wore out razor knife.
2. The shop owner is on the hook and he then must get his $$ back from the offending installer(s).
3. If owner pushes back, your only recourse would be to spend your own $$ to fix it right and then litigate in small claims, serving the shop owner with the papers.
4. Always take the time to drive down to a tint shop to see their work before scheduling with the type car you have described (aka buyer beware).
 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.

I had my 2015 Jeep windshield replaced in 2019 after it cracked due to snow sliding off the roof onto the hot sun-exposed glass, when coming to a stop.
 
The new one has mild wavy distortion on one side that you have to look to see at certain angles. I don't have tint on my windshield and it took awhile before I caught a glimpse of the area. That's when I looked over the entire sheet. For me, it's a no bother situ, as in not distractive enough to impact driving.
 
Feedback is simply to add credibility to the above quote (not that he needs it) and as tinters, we see this more often than one would think.

No it isn't over by any means.
 
My take:
1. It looks like an inexperienced gorilla handled this job with a wore out razor knife.
2. The shop owner is on the hook and he then must get his $$ back from the offending installer(s).
3. If owner pushes back, your only recourse would be to spend your own $$ to fix it right and then litigate in small claims, serving the shop owner with the papers.
4. Always take the time to drive down to a tint shop to see their work before scheduling with the type car you have described (aka buyer beware).
 

I've had Crystalline 40 on my front driver and passenger glass for 7 years now, it's always parked outside sun-exposed, and it is holding up pretty dammed impressive here at the South side of Virginia (as if it were installed recently).

For your stated purpose almost any film from a quality manufacturer will accomplish what you're after which is blocking the UV that's going to fade/break down your interior materials. Crystalline is a great film that offers higher IR rejection, but it certainly comes at a premium. As far as the light refraction with the rear window goes it's unavoidable unless you want to remove your defroster grid, that said some films are better than others in that department but there are a number of variables that come into play.

I'll second the heat gun damage and raise you with some overly aggressive scrub/wiping.
 
Jackwagons like that have been effing up the industry since it began. I'll wager anything that they absolutely saw it and delivered it with a straight face. Hood rat mentality. It's one thing to damage someone's auto, but not acceptable to try to pull that crap and believe it's ok.