Tintguy1980

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

Perforated vinyl might be your only solution. Unfortunately it will reduce the amount of light coming into the room from those doors, but it will eliminate any exterior surface reflection and still allow visibility out the doors. Also consider doing partial glass coverage. Hopefully, you don't have an HOA to deal with.
https://www.amazon.com/VViViD-Perforated-Privacy-Air-Release-Adhesive/dp/B01BLVCU4A?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10111992WJRYRFBZH9IS&th=1

Great idea. Thanks TG. 

40 front sides, 35 rear sides and back, if I didn't have factory solar control glass. No windshield; been there, done that, and not looking to do the task of R & R on any car.
 
I have a black interior, including dash. Hot as f**k sitting in the sun. Bought a beige dash mat and the temp off the dash dropped dramatically.
 
Illegal? Not so much a worry involving enforcement, however, insurance accident investigations can leave you paying the tab on all involved.
 
 

It is in the US if it's classified as a passenger vehicle. I've noticed more and more vehicles being classified as MPVs on the Vin tags in the doors jamb and they're mostly shipping with privacy glass in the rear. I also believe that in the international market (certain markets anyway) they're allowed privacy glass from the factory on sedans

Um, it appears Mercedes IS installing factory solar control (dark) glass on the back of sedans.
 
There's no way to get an exact color match to factory glass using after-market window film. Close, but no cigar in the results.

Maybe a straight-dyed film product would come closest, but anything with ceramic or metal deposition would be a crap-shoot.

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.

The physics involved simply put = heat always seeks cold and therefore when cooling the interior, the absorbed heat in the glass migrates to the inside where you are using AC. There, Capt Obvious to the rescue.
 
Have you considered looking for a solid whiteout static-cling vinyl material that you could cut to fit the outside of the glass shape? This would certainly reflect the sun's energy away from the dark glass and assist in shaving a few degrees off the internal temp.. The static-cling would allow for easy removal when wanting to relocate. It does require the glass to be clean before applying. The beauty of static-cling is it's reusable over and over again.
 
Example: https://www.amazon.com/VELIMAX-Blackout-Blocking-Whiteout-Darkening/dp/B08CXP3RK4?th=1

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.

The difference between a ceramic film and crystalline is the fact that crystalline reflects near infrared whereby a ceramic film strictly absorbs near infrared. Personally, I'd pick crystalline over any ceramic on the market.
 
Window film, no matter how well it performs, on car glass only works to keep the interior cooler when the car is in motion. Sitting in the sun all day, well, window film loses to the sun. It certainly does help in slowing the build up of heat in the car when parked, but it will still take your breath away after a full day exposure time.

The physics involved simply put = heat always seeks cold and therefore when cooling the interior, the absorbed heat in the glass migrates to the inside where you are using AC. There, Capt Obvious to the rescue.
 
Have you considered looking for a solid whiteout static-cling vinyl material that you could cut to fit the outside of the glass shape? This would certainly reflect the sun's energy away from the dark glass and assist in shaving a few degrees off the internal temp.. The static-cling would allow for easy removal when wanting to relocate. It does require the glass to be clean before applying. The beauty of static-cling is it's reusable over and over again.
 
Example: https://www.amazon.com/VELIMAX-Blackout-Blocking-Whiteout-Darkening/dp/B08CXP3RK4?th=1

This doesn't make any sense.  I'm not the smartest of the bunch but I feel confident in saying that you are confused somewhere in this scenario.  I have never heard of shaded windows, either factory glass or aftermarket tint, causing the interior to be hotter.  That's like saying it is hotter in the shade than in the direct sun,, which I have also never heard of.  
 
The vehicle sitting stagnant in the sun is going to bake itself no matter what type of film you have on the glass.  Yes, ceramic film would most definitely help you feel cooler and help the A/C work better for you to feel cooler.  But everything else in the vehicle is still going to get hot unless it is cooled down by an exterior source.  
 
Question, is the 144F aluminum ??  This may sound like a dumb question, but I firmly believe that if that Ford is aluminum and not metal, then it will conduct heat twice as fast and twice as far through the vehicle as opposed to a different make. 
 
One option is to run a sprinkler over the vehicle for a few minutes before you enter so that it will be easier for the A/C to catch up faster.  Other than putting it under an awning that's the best option you have.  
 
You can't stop the sun !!!!   

Well, in all the tinting I did over the course of 35 years, I could never achieve a spotless install. Even on a brand new car. Airborne dust can be a mofo to knock down.
 
During the 35 year time frame, I also spent endless hours traveling to tint shops around the Mid-Atlantic and, once in tech support as a trainer, the country, I only saw 1 perfect install. It was done in LLumar's Platinum Plus series (highly reflective compared to today's films and no longer available, to my understanding). Higher the reflectivity, the more noticeable the tiniest speck would be.
 
Steve spent time and film getting that perfect install and admitted he didn't know how it was accomplished. If you care to have him do your car, you'll have to make the trip to Kannapolis/Mooresville NC. Might have to let him babysit the car over the course of a couple days; if he's still in the tinting business.

You can't take the blue out of it but you can gather a few film samples and apply them to the inside to see which final color you find most agreeable.

Though BTU meters give you a 'general' idea of film performance compared to no film, they are limited in their measuring of the full spectrum of the electromagnetic radiation coming from the sun (visible, ultraviolet, and near infrared).
 
These meters are designed specifically for measuring change in gas/liquid cooling systems' performance.

Automotive glass is curved, so rollers would not be culprit. Rollers would leave lines across the surface as the glass moves along in the process. Rollers are what produces gritty tempered glass surfaces most flat glass installers loathe. If the rollers are not kept absolutely clean of dust, the particles get fired into the glass surface.
 
Auto glass is tempered during the firing along with any black border coating, shaping the glass, or bake on defroster grid, all in one mold process. The glass is then cooled by air blasts from spaced nozzles. If the air temp from the nozzles runs amuck; i.e., too cool, you will see haze-white splotches laid out in a precise pattern (without polarized lenses), which at times can be either invisible at certain angles or more pronounced at low angle. I'm sure every tinter has seen these.
 
The surface of tempered glass is harder than it's core (think of seared Ahi tuna), this is where thin film interference is produced and gives us a rainbow of colored patterns while wearing polarized lenses. Look at a set of sliding glass doors with polarized lenses.
 
Or, look at the reflection of a set of sliders off the glass of a picture hanging on the wall nearby; in the right lighting you will see thin film interference at play (Edit: without polarized lenses).
 
Solution = non-polarized lenses.

I could live with those doors, but that back window is a redo in my opinion.

It's called thin film interference. 
 
From wikipedia:
Thin-film interference is a natural phenomenon in which light waves reflected by the upper and lower boundaries of a thin film interfere with one another, either enhancing or reducing the reflected light. When the thickness of the film is an odd multiple of one quarter-wavelength of the light on it, the reflected waves from both surfaces interfere to cancel each other. Since the wave cannot be reflected, it is completely transmitted instead. When the thickness is a multiple of a half-wavelength of the light, the two reflected waves reinforce each other, increasing the reflection and reducing the transmission. Thus when white light, which consists of a range of wavelengths, is incident on the film, certain wavelengths (colors) are intensified while others are attenuated. Thin-film interference explains the multiple colors seen in light reflected from soap bubbles and oil films on water. It is also the mechanism behind the action of antireflection coatings used on glasses and camera lenses.
 

If only 2 yrs old they are likely hi-performance (better known as lowE2 or lowE3, since there is little cost difference between the older (standard) lowE and today's hi-performance (HP). HP lowE will look more than usual green when viewing white window dressing from outside. That is of course if at building time standard was specifically ordered.
 I could be wrong sitting behind a monitor and keyboard.
 
 
It was important to ask because you can put any film on HP lowE whereby, standard lowE has restrictions on absorption and reflectance rates a window film possesses. Straight shodows across the glass also add a level of concern from an uneven distribution of heating of the glass. If they are tempered, throw any concern out the window.
 
LowE will take care of ambient air temps as it is designed to be a thermal barrier from far infrared (radiant heat), whether man-made or sun generated air temp. Any wind passing over the glass carries away heat build up in the outer pane's exterior surface
 
A 55 film would give you low to moderate degree of glare reduction as opposed to going as low as dual-reflective 35. dual relective 35 would also increase heat rejection capacity of the glazing system.
 
Consider put 55 or 70 on East/West to preserve incoming light intensity and 35 on South facing to knock down glare a intruding heat factor.
 
The installing firm should be able to determine what lowE type you have with a meter and make recommended film applications accordingly.
 
I want to believe it'll take more than film to bring the temp in the room down to a mid to upper 70 degree range. Extra cooling capacity via larger duct work, for instance. I have had experience with this when tinting a hi-rise condo building in Naples FL back in the mid 90's. It was enlarging the dust work that solved their issue after window film was applied.
 
Good luck.
 
 

Though BTU meters give you a 'general' idea of film performance compared to no film, they are limited in their measuring of the full spectrum of the electromagnetic radiation coming from the sun (visible, ultraviolet, and near infrared).
 
These meters are designed specifically for measuring change in gas/liquid cooling systems' performance.

Standard lowE or hi-performance lowE?
 
Age of the windows?

Tempered or heat strengthened moonroof glass (sometimes found in laminated glass)?
 
Tempered requires a 200 degree difference in temp between glass center and glass edge before shock causes breakage. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree temp difference. Nickel-sulfide inclusion (google and read about) would have to be considered a factor in both types, if either were to break from shock using a 50% absorbance film.
 
My Jeep windshield snapped on a cold but sunny winter day. The sun had been hammering the windshield before I took off to the store and the first full stop I made caused a chunk of snow slide off the roof down the front window. I heard a *pahtink* and when I cleared the window with the wipers, there was a crack halfway across the glass.
 
I've since cleared any snow before driving and I covered my 'black' dash with a beige aftermarket cover. Lesson learned even for a tech guy. 😁
 
 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.

Tempered or heat strengthened moonroof glass (sometimes found in laminated glass)?
 
Tempered requires a 200 degree difference in temp between glass center and glass edge before shock causes breakage. Heat strengthened requires 100 degree temp difference. Nickel-sulfide inclusion (google and read about) would have to be considered a factor in both types, if either were to break from shock using a 50% absorbance film.
 
My Jeep windshield snapped on a cold but sunny winter day. The sun had been hammering the windshield before I took off to the store and the first full stop I made caused a chunk of snow slide off the roof down the front window. I heard a *pahtink* and when I cleared the window with the wipers, there was a crack halfway across the glass.
 
I've since cleared any snow before driving and I covered my 'black' dash with a beige aftermarket cover. Lesson learned even for a tech guy. 😁
 
 

Also lightly mist the headliner, when possible, and where a cap to contain head hair.