CaliTINT

We use old paper towel cores and roll them up including shield strip patterns. We use old 40" film boxes and mark them as honda/dodge/lexus etc....   Will follow up with a pics later
 
 
 
Yea they are the clear liners that I pull off on the 1st vehicle I do, for example..... The new 18 Camrys/whenever there is a new body style we have to "make the patters" which means hand cut. Save the liners off everything tinted (4doors, qtrs., rear window, shield strips, sunroofs) and use next time that car comes in. I always keep the 4 doors but I usually only use the driver side templates because I hand cut the passenger side, make necessary adjustments to the driver side and then use that one in the future.
 
I also keep at least 2-3 versions of the rear window, just in case you need to "sweat off" a rear window. The template works perfect! possibly better than a garbage bag!!!
 
 

Yup! Some glass just doesn't take water as well as others. Couple of things I do is keep a marked bottle with extra slip. Also, I spray the window down, peel my film, spray the film, carry the film  to the glass with one hand/arm, and then spray more solution on the glass right before applying. 

thought I'd make myself a new shop shirt...
 
 

Yup some of those work trucks and farm truck back rear windows are nasty...sucks holding light by yourself...

Thanks, that's pretty much the technique I'm using. They suck 

Yes its pretty awesome keeping the patterns. I never used a plotter yet. But even I did a Tacoma today and had the patterns for the 3 piece rear window which took like a few minutes to cut out without having to cut on the truck, put up a light, clean the outside of the windows, etc. saves time in my book. 
 
But yeah I can imagine how many patterns you guys had!!! 

Yup! Some glass just doesn't take water as well as others. Couple of things I do is keep a marked bottle with extra slip. Also, I spray the window down, peel my film, spray the film, carry the film  to the glass with one hand/arm, and then spray more solution on the glass right before applying. 

Try a scrubby pad and alchohol or simple green??? Some have wierd like factory rain x....

We used to do that at the first shop I worked for. (B.P. - before plotter). Back then, trucks mostly had pop out 1/4’s or vents, but we’d save anything that didn’t roll up and down. We’d adjust until everyone agreed that was the best possible pattern and then it would usually get cut onto a piece of limo. So if you were digging for a pattern and found a piece of limo lumped in with the clear liners- you definitely traced that one. Haven’t thought about that in years! Those dang patterns were everywhere, the place had been open 15-20 yrs when I started, and there were 8 of us tinting at that time- I’m sure you can imagine how fast your clear liner patterns can accumulate!

As a beginner I did 40" to cover all my bases (rears) which works fine and split it into 20" for most sides. As we have been able to increase our inventory I added 20" in the more popular shades to do most side windows.
 
Now we have been able to increase our inventory for almost everything: 
 
40" and 36" to cover big rear windows
  30" for most back windows
20" for sides and 24" for trucks and some back windows   and I have some small rolls for strips 10" & 12" I believe in  2 shades only 5% & 20%

Oh let me clarify. I don't keep templates for the doors like @6aeten does. Not sure how he does that. I keep them for mostly quarter windows, some side ones (even easy ones) and some back glass (like wranglers, 3 piece Tacoma, etc.). I keep easy ones because instead of cutting on the car I can double cut some of them and also less risk of scratches on windows. 

Oh let me clarify. I don't keep templates for the doors like @6aeten does. Not sure how he does that. I keep them for mostly quarter windows, some side ones (even easy ones) and some back glass (like wranglers, 3 piece Tacoma, etc.). I keep easy ones because instead of cutting on the car I can double cut some of them and also less risk of scratches on windows. 

As a beginner I did 40" to cover all my bases (rears) which works fine and split it into 20" for most sides. As we have been able to increase our inventory I added 20" in the more popular shades to do most side windows.
 
Now we have been able to increase our inventory for almost everything: 
 
40" and 36" to cover big rear windows
  30" for most back windows
20" for sides and 24" for trucks and some back windows   and I have some small rolls for strips 10" & 12" I believe in  2 shades only 5% & 20%

Wow kool the human plotter....!!! Are the patterns on clear liners ???

Wow! How do you store all these patterns? We use cut up card board boxes and make them into huge folders and most recently I place the patterns in a marked separate file (toyota, honda, audi, etc.) and then placed into the cardboard folder. I don't have each car, each year separated so it's kind of annoying looking for the template lol

I own alot of equipments and tools throughout all my years of working on car..Anything to make me faster and more efficient..This light is probably the best made so far to do cut out after shrinking back glass and windshield. For $45-$60 buck, it is a steal. This new equipment/tool make me say “why didn’t think of that.”

36 covers mostly everything and 40 will finish up anything you're going to do as a beginner.

Hi Jayz81,
Bingo.
The sputtered films are the culprits - the Ni Chrome Films in particular.
Standard vapor deposited aluminum films (typcial dyed-metal hybrids) are no factor. We have been selling the Global CHP for more than a decade without a single report of signal issues. If you are unsure what metals are in your film or which deposition method was used, check with your manufacturer.
For some reason, the myth that all metal films block signals still persists. Having metal in the film provides a dramatic increase in solar performance. It is a shame that many dealers rule it out over unfounded concerns.
-Howard

What you have there is called "if they bitch about it then i'll replace it but let me see if i get away with it first".
Most in this forum would probably have redone it for a smaller imperfection than that, and before it left the shop.
I feel like an employee did the job, i doubt an owner would accept that, ask for the owner. 

I burnt my arm cause that little piece was missing  tell them hahahah!!!! Half a tint job?? Then charge half price ahahahahh!!!!

That is a kool design...I usually see and really round cut but this dude said fuck it...im gonna make a new shape...😂

I don't know why but I LOL when i read "caca". I haven't heard that in years.

As you've just found buying off of film brand isn't always the best decision. Find an installer you know and trust and you'll be much happier than someone that just sells a brand. 

After more than a decade of building, buying, and collecting heat lamp displays… this is the BEST one. It is 32”x 24” made from aluminum composite and wall mounted. The graphics serve as an informative and heat display all in one which helps us spend less time explaining and selling to customers. It is very user friendly, the film will sell itself! We have hundreds of customers that walk up to this box and choose our infrared window film over any other because of this display.
The graphics and the box are custom designed by us in-house. Since we are a window film company we are more knowledgeable at designing what graphics and displays will work or not for the window film consumer.
We have been working on this new affordable box for 6 months and this is our 3rd and FINAL prototype. For the first 50 orders we will be offering this box for $300 + $50 shipping. After the first 50 orders, heat boxes will be $375 + shipping. You will get your money back from the extra profit this box will make you in a days.
What’s Included: 
• (1) 32” x 24” Heat Box Display
• (3) 5” x 5” 1/8” Thickness Glass
• (3) Infrared Bulbs
Email me at NorngLLC@gmail.com if you are interested.
Wholesale inquiries are welcomed!




 

 

 

 

 


 

 

I have seen these strange imperfections that looked like burns also on glass. They aren't really visible until you tint the car if we are talking about the same thing.