CustomGlassTinter

24 minutes ago, Roach said:

Are they still producing Enerlogic?
 

I believe it is totally discontinued other than some floating around for small warranty claims. We also saw issues where the metals in the film would corrode, as any coating on the surface of the film would negate the Low-E properties; anywhere the film was stressed it would turn clear(squeegee marks, pinches, dried water droplets)

I know 3M uses a tac control? ps adhesive on their Control-tac vinyl, but I don't think it's considered de-tac? You can slide it around until you apply any amount of pressure to it, yet it feels sticky to the touch.

FVD patterns aren't the best, but I find the Ford windows to be really accurate. Just have to position them properly to left or right.

I haven't used many other programs, but FVD has been my favourite, so far, for creating custom patterns quickly and easily. 

Is there a better program for custom designs? I found Precision Cut was absolutely impossible to use. TINTtek just didn't have as many tools.

FVD patterns aren't the best, but I find the Ford windows to be really accurate. Just have to position them properly to left or right.

I haven't used many other programs, but FVD has been my favourite, so far, for creating custom patterns quickly and easily. 

Is there a better program for custom designs? I found Precision Cut was absolutely impossible to use. TINTtek just didn't have as many tools.

Been a while since I did one, as I usually stick to automotive, but what I usually do is put up rectangular cut film, cut excess down(be careful not to cut back too much!!), push film in carefully,  bend your hard card to the same shape as the curve then cut.

Some arched transoms can be really deep with little frame, so relief slits cut into the excess film can help with getting the film closer to the glass until you can see better how much more excess you can trim off.

Hope that helps!

Oh, and no one ever cleans them, so..

If he's willing to warranty it then do it. I've done 2 layers of film, without issue, on many occasions, but I use Llumar.

We just recently used Blister Free on a big Yacht here in town. I noticed the instructions stated that it is not for use on curved plexiglass. We only applied it to the flat glass

Awesome! How many pieces?

We give many of ours to a guy who runs an amazon business. He uses them to ship items. We also have a guy stop by every once in a while who uses them to make cat trees.

If you put them in a direct sunlight for a week or two they become extremely brittle and can be smashed down in to more manageable pieces.

Are they biodegradable? Does anyone know? Biodegradable plastic usually breaks down like this.

On 2018-07-21 at 12:36 PM, TintDude said:

Fugly car theme this week?  

Hmmm. Ok.

Atc15 all around with upper/lower bands. 13 feet to the roof.

I've had a few Chargers with silicone from the seals smeared across a visible portion of the back glass near the bottom. Doesn't sound like this is the case, but maybe? 

Maybe residue from the silicone?

That's rough they're being so tough about it.. I do know the meters have an uncertainty of about +/- 2% and that the  vlt of the glass itself can vary 2 or 3%  depending on the location being metered.

New Kicks. Atc35

Dat Glass. Atc35

Very Easy car. It is similar to a Passat, but you don't need a screwdriver or need to remove any trim panels as the tops pop up and out of the seals like other VWs.

Only thing to watch out for is the panels are clad, like a new F150, so need to be careful you don't pull the cladding off the panel. It feels like they are held on by weak plastic welds.

Llumar Deco Red. Camera doesn't show rear is done too.

  It's like Karma is getting you for something. Or some cars, I swear, are just cursed. For me it'll be an entire car like a Jetta or something I can polish off in an hour and a half, or an hour if I move right, ends up taking 2, 2.5 hours. 

Every goddamn window I have to do twice, and the plotter is eating the damn film every single cut.

Like YOU RAN FINE all day. Why this? Why Now? I will Hammer You! I swear!

My experience with 5% tint is it's dangerous. You just had yours done. Perhaps you haven't had much experience yet? All it takes is that one teenager skating along the sidewalk late at night wearing all black clothing, and you will see why it's dangerous.

I almost ran him over, you will too. I only had my side windows done, and always refuse to do front windshield any darker than 20% regardless of how good their eyes are. I have one kid ask me all the time, and I always respond No! You will kill someone.

Also: Blinding other driver's at night with excessive headlights is just so inconsiderate. Having to blind other drivers just so you can see through your windshield is just ridiculous.

It's just the moisture in the atmosphere. The warm air, warm surface causes some of your solution to evaporate, and then, when the vapour touches a cold surface, it will condense and land.

Happens all the time to me. Hasn't caused any issues other than the odd finger. 

Fingers are easy to lay because it's all wet; the glass is already lubricated.

50th Anniversary Atc05

Top pulls away from glass from back corner, seals are stapled to the panel. They pull enough to give room to drop the film in bottom first.

Odd. Sounds like it's an issue with claustrophobia. 

I've had customers complain about allergic reactions to baby shampoo. One fella had been exposed to a chemical spill here at one of the refineries and had become sensitive to chemicals.

On 3/7/2018 at 2:28 PM, Rollie Sheppard said:

I have an ANA EXPRESS Elite Series  AE101TF sitting in my shop that we don't use anymore. Would like to sale. Make me and offer and we will see what we can work out. I hate to just throw it in the dumpster when there is someone out there that can use it. Thanks.

Does everything work on it? 

Blades

I know, on the 18s, they pop at the top and felts come out easy. I believe the 17s are the same.