Tint Slayer

Also, I've found that there are naturally talented people out there that will learn to tint well very quickly, some I've met had only a couple years experience. Others I've worked with have had decades experience, and I wouldn't let them near something I owned

Nothing with ammonia in it. 

The small hobby file kits at walmart have the small files to get back there, i wedge a Black Little Foot just below cut to help spread between glass, i use the small round file, has a good point to get in there, but any of them can reach in.

If you're really good you'll never be satisfied with your work, it's when you think you know it all is when you lose your edge. Just figure you'll always be learning.

I Agree with @Quadrunnerjake, qdp shrinks good, has good clarity. Much much better then suntek carbon. Only thing I dislike about qdp is the tack/dry time. Super super fast . No matter how much slip you use. 

IMO it takes about a year of window tinting to get of the learning curve.  so many different cars and tricks to many to avoid pulling hair.
 
If you don't know, what you don't know,  how can you possibly know?
 
Fell in love with Blues music couple years back.  decided to learn to play guitar, 7 notes, how hard can it be? A B C D E F G  LOL  I still really suck after a year 

wire brush the file between windows

https://www.interwesttools.com/p-375-squeegee-slip-tape-12-foot-roll.aspx

You can try it but to the best of my knowledge it wasn't all that great. It's to thick and doesn't slide past the seal well. 

That one made a little easier. Just hit it with the heat gun to add some more curve to it.

18 gm equonox=i took the screw out by the latch and panel wasnt popping easy so i shoved the long side of the GW in because the high front door panel and stuck the little one at the end/then carefully slide the front edge in there and the lower part of the pattern on the glass/letting the rest hang over/then grab the GWs and pull them out and slide the film down to position and carefully get the top back corner in that deep area without touching the frame
 
Minor adjust that nice edge and Blue 3m hardcard lock it hard and fast/wipe/little tri-edge and roll up nail the bottom and some tri-edge and done with no heatgun or any side creases to heatgun for these 2 fronts lol

I remember days I needed one  LOL  13+ cars
 
hey tip for ya on the scorcher days,   buy teri cloth headbands in black.  white ones got called richard simmons  LOL
rinse and light wring then toss in freezer.   last 10 min or so then swap with a new frozen.  keeps brain from over heating
 
hope to have some new vids torching laminate,  start to finish "dance" and some new toys.  have to wait for a day I can stand a long enough.
 
soft crease verse hard,   soft wipes right out with a touch of heat,  hard creases I redo.  trick is having no hard creases and finding soft ones
 
 

salt in the softener is to clean the resin tank.  should be no salt in the water.  been on well water for 17 years, 3x20 pre-filter for iron and undisolved solids.  40k grain softener for the hard water.  house filter have to change every 3 months or so,  think its a 5 micron.  they make another for after the softener in a 3x20 with 1 or 1.5 micron.  filters cartridges are $10 compared to $50 for my fridge filter which  I no longer have to change.   so many things effect how slippery your slip will be,  reason I am trying to make a tank with adjustable slip on the fly.

Just imagine that everyone on tintdude gets to walk around the vehicle to check it out. Thats what i do. Doesnt matter to me if the car is worth $3 or $30k. They should all be tinted to a certain standard.  I'll redo stuff i know the custy most likely wont notice, cause i never want a customer to doubt my work and bring it to a competetor to check it out.  
 
 

If the customer is not happy or you would not be happy with it on your personal vehicle, needs to be redone.

I did a search on "mobile garage" and saw a few nice tents for around 100 or less. I was thinking of the mobile thing at one time, bunch of ideas popped in my head, like i only need enough tent for the window i'm working on so maybe a small setup or 2, i also had a trailer i could fit a car on and pondered building onto the trailer a camper like thing that pops out on the sides so i can bring my garage with me. I also looked around for public covered garages in key areas that i could use. Like if they didn't have a garage i could tell them to meet me at a cool covered parking garage. I have a few friends with car shops, some will let me use an empty bay for $20 a tint job. I now have a physical shop and even in the enclosed shop i have dust issues. All i can say is work fast af lol.
On amazon i found a $300 generator that is good for 3500watts (4000 peak) (Champion, i also use it to power my house during outages). If it's just your heat gun you could get away with a 2000 watt, or you can use a torch for shrinking. just shooting out ideas. Let me know if you can make it work, i have a spare pickup i'd like to make the Tintmobile.

Just did an aggressive Facebook ad to boost up our sale before we head off to SEMA.  The phone won't quit ringing.  I can't even keep up.  Been booking appointment all morning.  Maybe this Facebook ad work or maybe it is because 700,000 vehicle just got total loss due to Hurricane Harvey. I would recommend doing this.

Hey man, just got the GW, haven't used it yet, you seem to be making good use of it, any tips or tricks? Seems like jam and go, what's the best way to maximize clearance for the film? There's no videos about their use, i know it seems straight forward, but apparently you have to wear a cup when using the bungees? lol Can you hang a small weight instead? 

Panel/seals are all diff and some top of door panels are higher than the seal and some types you have to start with the window lower to slide it to that perfect edge so binding sucks for most

Expensive -  http://www.gazebox.net/ 
Bolt that to a trailer lol
 

I would just use a regular bungee not the one that comes with it

That's not going away, that's contamination.

That's pretty bad...needs to be redone.

every film is different. shrinking, sticking and elasticity. you dont have to shrink every door, but i do.    snapping the top makes you have to stretch the bottom leaving no fingers.  the system i follow let me turn a car an hour, sometimes two with an assistant.  the most profitable film is not the cheapest,  its the one that goes on fastest and does not come back.  10 to 50 more or less cost per roll is irrelevant compared to the extra cars/day income you will make. 

ram 1500 and many other vehicles have the inner sweep higher then the outer sweep,  I refer to this as a "negative offset".   If the inner sweep were lower then the outer,  you would have never seen those fingers and it would have peeled eventually. 
 
So what if we snapped the top or shrank the top?  if little fingers popped up on the top,  easy to see and heat down.  No reason to pull door panels or sweeps then.
 
process with heat gun or torch on my youtube channel