Tint Slayer

Expensive -  http://www.gazebox.net/ 
Bolt that to a trailer lol
 

I did a search on "mobile garage" and saw a few nice tents for around 100 or less. I was thinking of the mobile thing at one time, bunch of ideas popped in my head, like i only need enough tent for the window i'm working on so maybe a small setup or 2, i also had a trailer i could fit a car on and pondered building onto the trailer a camper like thing that pops out on the sides so i can bring my garage with me. I also looked around for public covered garages in key areas that i could use. Like if they didn't have a garage i could tell them to meet me at a cool covered parking garage. I have a few friends with car shops, some will let me use an empty bay for $20 a tint job. I now have a physical shop and even in the enclosed shop i have dust issues. All i can say is work fast af lol.
On amazon i found a $300 generator that is good for 3500watts (4000 peak) (Champion, i also use it to power my house during outages). If it's just your heat gun you could get away with a 2000 watt, or you can use a torch for shrinking. just shooting out ideas. Let me know if you can make it work, i have a spare pickup i'd like to make the Tintmobile.

Under Armour shirts are less lint 

top edge debris.
after you clean the door,  kawos/perfect cloth the top edge to remove dirt.  laminate windows you might have to spray the channel out.   top back corner and front rinse well.  can not wipe to the edge.  top window gasket wet from outside and mist around window and around where you peel.   static electricity pulls dirt in when you peel and the vacuum created peeling draws debris.  I peel off the car and mist all around my patterns before pulling release sheet including under side view mirrors..  as you put the film on the window,  loose dust on frame or gaskets can fall in from the top and sides if not wet.
 
years ago i used peel boards,  saw a tinter peel off the side of a caravan completely covered in mud.  I asked how he could tint clean on such a dirty vehicle.  he replied "keep everything wet and no water running in".   so i threw out my mobile peelboards and never looked back.

Need that but with some sides 

Don't know what kind of setup you have to work with. But I've seen several portable car ports that can be purchased online. Maybe find one that would suit your needs best and maybe haul it on a small trailer that way you could quickly set it up on site. That way you don't have to completely tear it all apart maybe. I would think you could buy one, collapse it, then just put it right back up just get a good system going on for it. 

True and Global is a great product, but what i'm saying is basically after all this film info he's gotten in this 7 page thread, he now needs to verify the installer is good.
I think the ratings do mean a lot (people are willing to be deceitful about it apparently), people out here go by those ratings, bad ratings just helped put an awful restaurant out of business by my house. I think a lot of people are savvy enough to know which are the fake reviews, but those perfect 5 star companies always make me wonder how many of their friends helped bump it up, or if it's only their friends.

Call around to storage facilities and tell them your exact needs and ask them if they have something. Some places will work a deal with you and most have car storage options that are enclosed in an open area where you can knock out jobs. Hey, it's a garage and as long as you can keep the car doors open and have power you're solid, even if you pay $100 a month it's decent to have it like a mini shop. 

Now you know why I have used the max and orange crush for 32 years. I have most of the the others, but I need mine slickery. If it's not broke, dont fix it. I do like the red devil for humid days
Cheers

I have never put it on a scale for certain O.C.D reasons,but it is stupid light,i can curl it with my pinky finger 😂 But my Trek is a for sure lighter by a few lbs due to frame size and dimensions,carbon neck,bars,seat(not a recent pic).The Specialized can take a beating,the Trek needs to be treated like porcelain. 

I was testing out hard cards and other tools looking to see if i could scratch the film with the tools, i wasn't testing the film, i was testing tools trying to see the scratch limits i could push with certain tools. No scratches on the CarbonFX, it was amazing. Even when i first got the sample i used it on my Saab 92x hatchback back glass i was rough on the film and probably could've still installed it if i didn't test out how much i could over shrink it to burn. I'm not nice to the CarbonFX and it still performs. 

Just recently bought a pink crush to try out. I just recently switched to the clear crush for cleaning so I thought hey let's try the pink one. Gotta say I'm pretty disappointed in it. It's way to soft to push with and it gets hung up if you try to. It may be ok to just drag with for sides. All in all i will probably not use it.
 

Hello everyone, I just wanted to post up here about our new small counter top Ceramic Heat Display. This is all Acrylic that is Laser cut and Laser etched. They are not large and bulky like most other heat displays. This is a very classy looking display that would look great on any counter.
 
 

I have not had this much fun putting tint through hell since Llumar/Courtaulds brought me some test rolls back around 1994.I am beating this Solar FX with my harshest plastic and wood tools that would decimate my Suntek....This film is BADD AZZ ! 😂

And carbon fiber rims..thats my baby 😉

the trick to cleaning with blades is to listen and feel.  keep glass wet and feel the imperfections as the blade slides across and listen for the "ting ting"  of pits, scratches or sputter.  low angle and light pressure like  fishing and feeling a nibble.  no blades on BG!  now that I use stainless blades,  they don't rust, last for months and cut myself and pouch less.  
if the BG  is in good shape, white scrubby, squeegee and hang.  dirty BG,  stronger cleaner double rinse.  oxidized or corroded lines, steel wool, double rinse and maybe pro-bond for lines and frit.
work smarter, not harder.  1 min to look at the window before you wet it or cover in film may save you an hour redoing it later because you missed something.
 
inspect cars inside and outside when finished.   I use a 250 lumen spot to check inside for puddles or imperfections and again outside.  mini-torch for parking lot touch-ups.     If a custy see's just one spot,  the will be face F&%$ing the whole car for an hour.   and of course that will be when your busy and have no time.

SolarFX is also Dragon Distributors so i get the tools there mostly. 

SolarFX to all the above. 

Same here, blade and squeegee on all glass without defrost.  Tried using synthetic steel wool 000 on Bg. It was so much cleaner than real steel wool but should've gotten 0000. 000 left tiny scratches.  Couldn't see it after film was applied but I don't use it anymore. 

Each diff auto glass has diff ways to make easyier and you need to learn them tricks
 
Some people learn faster than others so no real # of cars and must learn from mistakes and cant be afraid to throw a 3ft piece of film in the garbege and learn why that window film install didnt come out good?
 
And Audis are one of the worst doorglass with tight seals(all the way around) and deep tight vertical sides and if you can do them most others are easy
 
 

Thank you...I finally got some sleep last night.It has been a TRICKY last 9 months....Maybe i just take my job to serious.I can't wait to get my hands on some FX.

Nice. Welcome to the FX family bro!

Just keep in mind it's not lifetime color stable warranty. Spend the extra and get carbon or ultra. 

white has worked well for me.  less chance of debris then steel wool.  wool better for corroded defrost lines.  for a clean back window,  the best advice I can give is always look at the glass closely before putting anything on it.  old stickers, temp tag residue or other imperfections if noticed can be taken care before water or fil are put on glass.   so many trainees get burned missing crap because they wet the window or put film on it before evaluating the glass.