Mastering 3M CS

TintDude · January 20, 2007

Man, we are getting hit hard by spammers since Friday, usually we get one or two a day, but since Friday it's been about 5 a day.

January 20, 2007

Alright, so I had part 2 today.

I started the Maxima yesterday and did the Bonneville today.

Back window shrink on the bonneville took about 4 minutes like it should. I soap shrank it without touching it. Then smoothed it all down and hit a few spots that needed it.

Throw it into the back, slap it on, smooth it down with my hands, FIRST pass with the yellow turbo and crease it like origami! So I had to redo it.

Then all hell broke loose and it was non-CS related thank god. Damn super sensitive and fast auto down window took a piece of film INTO the door a good few inches. Dirt here and there. Then I didn't notice my battery charger didn't get a good ground and the battery died. So I had to wait to do the last 2 windows.

Good upsell though.

flat rock stan · January 21, 2007

I switched from suntek to MMM about 2 months ago. Like anything after about 1 week of getting use to the change I love it. You neeed to pay attention to how the film shrinks, once you see the difference it is very user friendly. I use two heat guns.Let the film shrink up about 4-6" before I take my glove hand and flatten out the film. With suntek,sungard, or johnson I would always have to heat up the inside once it was finalized. Never have to with MMM. Sungard- would ghost after about 1 year. Johnson- would blurr on back window in about 2-3 years. Hopefully no problems with MMM since huge price difference.

With suntek,sungard, or johnson I would always have to heat up the inside once it was finalized. :nope :lol2 esplane dis to me

:eyebrows

Mr rogers aka pop not tart :lol2

January 21, 2007

OK, well it's dark out now so no pics, but I picked up the car & she looks good. :nope

I do like the color & it ain't even close to dry yet. One thing I must say is that no matter how good a window is shrunk, shrinking definitely leaves its impression in the clarity dept. It looks great and he's the best I know of, but it's just a fact of the matter. So CS is certainly not immune to shrink evidence.

All that said, it's much better than the SG that was on there. It's too dark for me to inspect his cuts, etc. but I'll get a good look at 'em in the morning. He tucked the rubber for the roll downs (sorry panel pullin' mofo's.... :nope ) & put it about where I'd have. I might have pulled the panels, but who knows.

He also showed me a good pointer on these Gen4 Camrys. The top/rear corner of the front roll ups take abuse from pressure (as mine did) and pullin' the rubber, revealing the metal you can bend the webbed portion back a bit to relieve that pressure so it doesn't happen. Kinda' nice to know 'cuz if I'd have done 'em, I'd probably be redoin' 'em again in a couple years.

Will post pics tomorrow! :eyebrows

January 21, 2007

in response to torch boys 2 minute shrink I did a 30 second CS shrink video today but damn photobucket is taking forever...more :eyebrows anyone? oh and its a professional shrink with a heatgun not a newb torch

lorenzotint · January 21, 2007

I found that single heat gun shrink works best with much less powder for CS..... I have used two guns on all other types of film to speed install times. This film makes you slow down and think a bit. :beer

lorenzotint · January 21, 2007

in response to torch boys 2 minute shrink I did a 30 second CS shrink video today but damn photobucket is taking forever...more anyone? oh and its a professional shrink with a heatgun not a newb torch

This torch bissiness has me :beer

January 21, 2007

I don't want a 30 second CS shrink video.

I want a 5 minute detailed explanation of how it's done!

BIG E · January 21, 2007

I don't want a 30 second CS shrink video.
I want a 5 minute detailed explanation of how it's done!

:hmmm :beer

Devil with bad attitude · January 22, 2007

Not to get far off the topic, I'm most interested in CS user input, regarding installation,mostly in the forming and optical quality.

I've got it on one of my cars and I'm far from impressed.

Why?

Because it has very ordinary optical clarity with a lovely strong distortion line running down through the 20" roll. Images move when you sight the fault and therefore everything wobbles slightly in that part of the window.

The adhesive is way to soft and in a car like a frameless Subaru, you can see where the rubber is impressioning on the film's glue.

Devil