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Remove PPF without damaging the paint


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Hey guys, I'm going to have a PPF service for the customers and I have heard some painter said even the car with original paint, the lacquer will peel off with the PPF when removing it, so customers asking if this product is for protecting the paint but what is the point to install it if it will damage the paint at last? Or you guys have some proper techniques like using steamer or anything good for this?  Also if customer's car with repainted panel then is not recommend them to do it?  

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Steamer for removal. The only time I've had it take paint with it is touch up paint from rock chips. I install ppf on repainted panels all the time and have never had an issue, if the panel is freshly painted (within a day or two) I've noticed the film wants to tack up quicker but that's about it.

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Yup steamer is the way to go. I've removed my share of ppf and on rare occasion, it has pulled paint. But the issues have always been because of bad prep before paint. Just go slow and make sure you get a waiver signed, because no matter how care you are, shit can always happen. 

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Steamer here too.  Like they said, it will only pull paint of poorly prepped paint jobs...the whole reason there is no warranty on aftermarket paint jobs.  Our policy is to only remove PPF that has been installed by us since we do not know the condition of the paint when it was originally installed.

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th_doorremoval.mp4

 

Has anyone here that paid for a professional training class ever been shown how to remove the film?  Removals start with the initial install.   Most installers are so afraid the film will lift they strip off all the wax or polish on the car so the adhesive will bite, or they may only use "the recommended" few drops of baby shampoo in their slip solution.  I've seen installs where ProBond was used in an inch wide smear around every edge.  Removing installs that have been hammered down nearly always result in hundreds of micro scratches or worse  from picking at the edges with fingernails or scrubbing off fossilized adhesive.   

 

You want the film to slide off the car until pressure is applied and then feel the adhesive stick, ESPECIALLY on full panels like hoods and roofs.  The true perfect install is one that can easily be removed years later without damaging the clear coat finish on top of that paint.  

 

 

 

 

Edited by Speed
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3 hours ago, Speed said:

th_doorremoval.mp4

 

Has anyone here that paid for a professional training class ever been shown how to remove the film?  Removals start with the initial install.   Most installers are so afraid the film will lift they strip off all the wax or polish on the car so the adhesive will bite, or they may only use "the recommended" few drops of baby shampoo in their slip solution.  I've seen installs where ProBond was used in an inch wide smear around every edge.  Removing installs that have been hammered down nearly always result in hundreds of micro scratches or worse  from picking at the edges with fingernails or scrubbing off fossilized adhesive.   

 

You want the film to slide off the car until pressure is applied and then feel the adhesive stick, ESPECIALLY on full panels like hoods and roofs.  The true perfect install is one that can easily be removed years later without damaging the clear coat finish on top of that paint.  

 

 

 

 

 

Do you do a wax or a coating before installation like Proform was demonstrating?

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Some of that depends on the film you're using and personal preferences, for example 3M recommends the surface be waxed with the exception of the edges prior to application when using their Pro series. I wipe everything down with 70% IPA before I apply ppf. I've done it both ways as far as waxed or not and personally skip the wax 98% of the time.

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Best way to remove old film?  "Pay someone else to do it".  That's what I tell my customers.  When the insist on paying me, then I have to agree with both Speed and XPEL Jeff.  Wax before you install and pull at a low angle (I use Mechanix type gloves).

 

Steam is good but can also soften the clear coat, so use caution. For those films that come off in pieces, I sometimes use an eraser wheel - moderating a LOW RPM.  High RPM's melt the film and make a horrible mess.

 

Good Luck,

Paint Defender

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